LSX Maestro

Sounds like a plan. Have fun and welcome to the addiction. You'll start picking up more things every order..."Eh, maybe I'll try some Tire and Rubber Cleaner....All Purpose Cleaner looks good...Glass Sealant? Throw it in there...Do I nee --Yes I do..." etc.  

Here’s a shot as she sits right now.   It's a Z07 car so it sits too high for my tastes and not a fan of the "gray" wheels it has.  Going to be doing all sorts of little things to it.  More carbon pieces, lower it with LG drop spindles, dark LED sidemarkers, different wheels (Thinking GM Cup wheels or going aftermarket forged), tints, intake, exhaust, etc.  

Here’s a shot as she sits right now.   It's a Z07 car so it sits too high for my tastes and not a fan of the "gray" wheels it has.  Going to be doing all sorts of little things to it.  More carbon pieces, lower it with LG drop spindles, dark LED sidemarkers, different wheels (Thinking GM Cup wheels or going aftermarket forged), tints, intake, exhaust, etc.  

Sounds good.  I'll go with LPS/H2O and then wash them with just the Car Shampoo.  Roger on the Strip wash, I'll only use that when I first get the car.  And to strip off my other cars of old wax before doing them properly too.   

Sounds good.  I'll go with LPS/H2O and then wash them with just the Car Shampoo.  Roger on the Strip wash, I'll only use that when I first get the car.  And to strip off my other cars of old wax before doing them properly too.   

Just applied H2O GG while drying my truck last night (Coat of LPS under it).  As I was parking it, I noticed a good sized spider trying to crawl across the hood...he was basically on a tread mill, lol! He wasn't moving anywhere but he sure was trying.  I noticed several other bugs doing this as well.  Great product for instant protection, beading, and shine. Makes white look great. 

If they bake the paint, my body shop tells people to wait a few weeks. Unbaked paint and you’ll want to wait 90 days or more. 

If they bake the paint, my body shop tells people to wait a few weeks. Unbaked paint and you’ll want to wait 90 days or more. 

Or option for the "professional" sprayers too.  A drop down with "No Nozzle, Standard Nozzle, or Professional Nozzle".  

Or option for the "professional" sprayers too.  A drop down with "No Nozzle, Standard Nozzle, or Professional Nozzle".  

Or option for the "professional" sprayers too.  A drop down with "No Nozzle, Standard Nozzle, or Professional Nozzle".  

Ceramic Boost has no real advantage over H2O GG for ME because I get to apply H2O GG to every surface on the car, when it's wet or dry, and not worry about it. Ceramic Boost is like a Detail Spray on mega Steroids but as noted is really only for your paint; you'll have to purchase another product like glass sealant to cover windows.  
I have read that Ceramic Boost, being silica, likes to play with other Silica products, AKA it doesn't really go well with real Wax.  So since Paint Sealant will last longer than Ceramic Boost, you'd want to have your paint stripped of all coatings, apply PS and then use Ceramic Boost as a topper OR H2O GG.  I think the CB may leave your paint feeling a little bit more slick, but I don't want for any more slickness that my LPS + H2O GG already gives me; plus CB is harder to apply, can't work on glass, and is more expensive.  
I kind of view it as "Why mess with a good thing" in this instance; LPS + H2O GG is a long time proven concept that lots of Adam's users use.  I'm sure CB will do it just fine too.  Pick one and go with it; try both.  But if you're using H2O GG, don't feel like you're missing out and should switch to CB. 

Just wanted to bump this with a little info...I talked to my dad who has owned body shops since the 80s and he said that, a baked paint job should be given anywhere from 2-4 weeks to cure or more to be safe.  He's had customers that have ceramic coated or even waxed their cars immediately and had their paint crack at stress points.  

For a good setup, you could get a 2 bucket washing setup from Adam's (2 Buckets, Grit Guards, Wash Pads, Car Shampoo, Drying Towels, etc.).  Then I'd get a can of Americana or Buttery wax, and regularly coat the car after washings.  Just note, there are better options than Wax these days for protection, especially since this car will be driven a lot.  If you really want the best option, short of a Ceramic Coating...
 
Strip Wash the car to remove all residue, waxes, and whatever film is on the car. (This can be done a variety of ways)
Assess the paint to see if it needs to be clayed...It's a new car so it probably won't need it. Is your freshly washed paint still bumpy? If so, you'll need Detail Spray and Clay.
Apply Liquid Paint Sealant (LPS). This will provide you with 4-8 months of protection.  Paint Sealant needs to be applied to naked paint (Achieved via Strip Washes and Claying).
Now you can optionally use an Adam's product like H2O Guard and Gloss on top of the LPS to get more shine, protection, and durability.  (LPS + H2O G&G is a awesome setup, my favorite)
 
Regularly wash it with Car Shampoo and good to go.  The H2O GG can also be your only source of protection for your Glass, Wheels, and Trim.  It will provide 1-3 months of protection and shine PER application, but I choose to apply it almost every time I wash the car to maintain the peak protection and beading capabilities.  
 
Ask away, just a few months ago I was a complete noob at all of this too.  You'll find tons of help here on this Forum and from Adam's directly. 

Just wanted to bump this with a little info...I talked to my dad who has owned body shops since the 80s and he said that, a baked paint job should be given anywhere from 2-4 weeks to cure or more to be safe.  He's had customers that have ceramic coated or even waxed their cars immediately and had their paint crack at stress points.  

Yeah that’s what I used my first go round. Seemed to work fine for me. Think I’ll order a SW for next summer though. 

Mine 

Well I guess you can say he wasn't kidding about there being lots of paint! 

I have several classic cars; I wash them just like I do my normal cars save for a few extra precautions.  
Don't spray water in cracks and crevices if you can avoid it
Don't spray water near the convertible top/window gaps/door lines etc.
Be extra careful when washing near little pieces of chrome trim or ornaments that can move/break/fall off
Use Rinseless when you can, but if the car is too dirty than you'll want a bucket wash
Don't use a pressure washer (That's IMO)
 
Car is gorgeous, one of my favorite classics, may have to restore one myself some day. 

Ditto to what Shane said (as usual).  You could also replace Wax with a spray sealant like H2O Guard & Gloss which becomes a booster/sacrificial layer for the Liquid Paint Sealant, but is much easier to apply than a Paste wax or liquid wax while also lasting quite a bit longer (Save for Americana or Patriots which lasts about the same).  

You'll want to Strip wash your car to get the paint naked.  Also, if it has been driven a bit, a decontamination with Clay might be a good idea.  After that/if you do that, you'll want to apply Liquid Paint Sealant for 4-6 month protection.  Apply H2O GG afterwards and every few washes to maintain shine and protection. Wax, especially a weak wax like Buttery Wax, is unnecessary, however you may apply it if you want for more shine.  Buttery lasts about 2 weeks I'd say, and if you apply your H2O GG over the top of old Buttery (IF that sequence lined up) then your H2O GG will come off as soon as the Wax does which may be in the next few days.  Generally, I say Paint Sealant and H2O GG is all you need and is very straight forward.  Save the waxing for the show cars IMO but if you want to do it, you can. Just know what you're doing. 
Detail spray doesn't have any layering properties like Sealant or Wax, it's a spray and wipe detail-in-a-bottle that works on any surface for a bit of extra shine and cleaning.  It also has hundreds of other uses, but for what you're talking about, you can apply Detail spray whenever you want a little therapy or extra shine or cleaning light dust/fingerprints/smears etc.  

I already have a clay kit as well as a PC and access to other DAs from the shop...Not sure if I need to buy a SK though a complete Pad+Polish kit may be on order.  
Lol and I found that there's really only one form of detailing...All in LOL.  At first I was like, maybe proper washing things...Then ok maybe I'll try a sealant...Then...then then etc.  

I already have a clay kit as well as a PC and access to other DAs from the shop...Not sure if I need to buy a SK though a complete Pad+Polish kit may be on order.  
Lol and I found that there's really only one form of detailing...All in LOL.  At first I was like, maybe proper washing things...Then ok maybe I'll try a sealant...Then...then then etc.  

That’s the latest look/font. 

I recently tried RW and I was a little skeptical it would really CLEAN and not just hide and shine like most products.  I did take it to the quarter car wash before hand which is less than 3 minutes from my house and power wash all of the excess grit off but there was still a fair amount of dirty water spots and stuff from the rain.  I used 6 double softs, 4 for washing 2 for drying/buffing.  Worked like a charm! Did the straight strokes, flipping the towel consistently, blown away.  The truck was sparkly and shiny clean with very little effort.  I also attribute this to the repelling nature of the Paint Sealant and H2O that's layered on the truck.  Not much sticks and when it does, RW takes it off easily.  I can see myself doing this for most of the winter (Power wash off the heavy, park it in the garage for a RW).  
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