BHarris23

Wouldn’t mind seeing Adam’s at Rod Run in Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge. It’s mostly classic cars, but you get the occasional nice import. 

Could be they changed it to work with or without water. I’m sure some would like to use it even without getting their car wet. 

Probably take the interior scrub mitt or a light, non scratch pad and with lots of lubrication, get the nail polish off. For everything else, just a solid clean with leather cleaner and then condition it. Like @pirahnah3 said, will probably need multiple applications of conditioner to bring the seats back. 

Because the cost of mixing is cheaper than buying strip wash. CS is $10, SW is $15. If you mix a capful of APC, the mix is FAR cheaper than SW. 

Because the cost of mixing is cheaper than buying strip wash. CS is $10, SW is $15. If you mix a capful of APC, the mix is FAR cheaper than SW. 

If you do a full paint correction, you wouldn’t need BG. BG is for a combination of shine and filling in any imperfections. If the paint is corrected, no fill ins needed. So you would do LPS, then do BG or wax as a topcoat for extra shine. 
 
I still ill don’t like the idea of having LPS over BG because I’ve always been taught the chemical which lasts longer goes on bottom and then you layer from there. LPS wouldn’t be adhering to the paint, it would be adhering to the BG, which isn’t design for longevity. 

I’m with @shane@detailedreflections on this one. Either the tool is defective or it’s technique. Never had any stalling issues. And I don’t understand why they wouldn’t want you to use the rotary function with the 2” pads. I used it quite a bit because there are times you can’t use a random orbital with a 2” pad due to the surface being in a tricky spot. 

I just bought my house 3 months ago, and immediately after I knew I was going to need a cabinet for my detail stuff. I was going to do a normal enclosed cabinet but then saw someone on facebook use an Oakley case, and I just had to have one. So here's mine, post yours up if you want! Slowly buiding up my Arsenal lol. 

The ones next to Vossen ARE Adam’s but it’s not for cars. It’s a collab they did with Big Chill appliances. Comes in a set. 

If you email or call one of the dealers who carry it, they will take care of you. I know Grabiak is reallly helpful on the Adam’s products and would recommend them. 

They’re designed to curl on the bottom so that it can reach those hard to get areas inside the bottle

I personally like the scangrip I-match light. Their line of detailing lights are pretty solid and well built. They can be pricey though. 

The ones next to Vossen ARE Adam’s but it’s not for cars. It’s a collab they did with Big Chill appliances. Comes in a set. 

I’d be weary of techniques and products used on that “full detail.” Depending on what products he uses and how good he is, it could be worth only $50 but might not be a very good detail. ??‍♂️

If you’re gonna do a paint correction, save yourself some money and product. Just use the soap and water from your bucket with your clay. It’s quick and saves time AND money!

If it’s the same size as the Rupes bags, or close to it, you should be able to fit both. Maybe won’t have as much room for pads, but I’d rather put my expensive machines in a nice bag over my pads. 

Haha good luck to you guys! That’s my bottle.

There’s another one on eBay right now. Start bid at $100

We don’t use Adams pads. The constant marketing of different gen pads lead us elsewhere in our search. We ended up with a company that makes pretty much just pads. We tried a bunch we didn’t like. Some were okay. And finally settled on a manufacturer that meets our needs. 
 
Polish and technique are significantly more important than pad. It’s not unimportant, but it’s not the top priority. 

Again, like Rich said. If it wasn’t chalky before you used the product, then you’ve wiped away all the oil, grease, and dirt built up. You need to add leather conditioner to the dash and panels to rejuvenate them. If you don’t, it will become more susceptible to damage later. 

There really isn’t a magical product that allows you to apply and rinse to perfection. Using a foam cannon or foam gun can help, but it’s more for sale of preventing scratches and getting a majority of the dirt/dust off. There will still need to be some sort of wiping done with a lubricated towel/pad/mitt. With that being said, if you’re looking for something to help with a RV, they have pole wash brushes that can help reach higher areas. Adam’s makes a truck brush and pole that can get those areas. There’s also a boar hair brush out there by Montana that is really good. 
 
If you want great results, ya gotta work a little. Wax/sealants/coatings help with getting the dirt/dust off, but it only does so much. Wax doesn’t last the length that you’re reapplying it at. Try a paint sealant if you’re wanting something to do twice a year. Or a ceramic coating for something that lasts up to 2 years. 

Mine is too when she sees a box with the Adam’s tape. I wish they had an option for secretive boxes. So the wives won’t know what it is!

Mine is too when she sees a box with the Adam’s tape. I wish they had an option for secretive boxes. So the wives won’t know what it is!

Mine is too when she sees a box with the Adam’s tape. I wish they had an option for secretive boxes. So the wives won’t know what it is!

Mine is too when she sees a box with the Adam’s tape. I wish they had an option for secretive boxes. So the wives won’t know what it is!