Clay lube ... so many options

[MikeSoFlo]

Part 1. What are you all using for clay lube?

Part 2. Do you change what you are using for lube based on what you do after?

 

Here's what I mean, I usually use DS to lube my clay bar. I've been reading and watching videos with people saying that if you plan on doing a paint correction you should NOT use DS because it would add a layer over the paint and it could effect the pads and polishes. Is the answer then hit the car with a 50/50 ISO mix after the cay and DS and then paint correct? Use something else as lube? I've seen people use soap and water from the wash bucket. How about something like Rinseless Wash or ONR? 

 

Looking to see what everyone else is doing and if you change you clay lube based on what you are doing after the clay process. 

[rrmccabe]

I personally think its fine. The paint correction process should compound that right off. The amount of protection DS is putting down is probably minimal anyway.

[falcaineer]

I use DS without any issue at all. Adam demos this in all of his videos and at clinics in person,, so if it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me. If it adds any layer at all, it's extremely minimal since DS contains a small amount of carnuba, but the polish will make quick work of that and you won't even notice. If you don't have DS, I've heard WW or diluted RW will work, but I've never tried. I also tend to clay without drying the car and use the residual water for extra lubricity.

Edited August 2, 2018 by falcaineer

[mc2hill]

I use diluted Rinseless Wash (15oz. distilled water + 1oz of RW), as it is muuuuch less expensive than Detail Spray.  With our heat I am not able to leave the rinse water on the car, unless I am washing at night.

[cwp2016nd]

I have a homemade detail spray that I use. It's a concentrate of 3oz rinseless wash (non adam's although his would work fine I'm sure) per gallon of distilled water. It doesn't leave any residue behind and is plenty slick. It's also SUPER cheap. 

 

[BHarris23]

3 hours ago, MikeSoFlo said:

Part 1. What are you all using for clay lube?

Part 2. Do you change what you are using for lube based on what you do after?

 

Here's what I mean, I usually use DS to lube my clay bar. I've been reading and watching videos with people saying that if you plan on doing a paint correction you should NOT use DS because it would add a layer over the paint and it could effect the pads and polishes. Is the answer then hit the car with a 50/50 ISO mix after the cay and DS and then paint correct? Use something else as lube? I've seen people use soap and water from the wash bucket. How about something like Rinseless Wash or ONR? 

 

Looking to see what everyone else is doing and if you change you clay lube based on what you are doing after the clay process. 

If you’re gonna do a paint correction, save yourself some money and product. Just use the soap and water from your bucket with your clay. It’s quick and saves time AND money!

[Chris@Adams]

You will be fine, I have been using DS for a clay lube since the early 90"s.

[pirahnah3]

I have used Detail spray at times, but mostly I use my Rinseless made to waterless solution for it, usually because its handy. 

[Black Bowtie]

As others, I use diluted Rinseless due to it being cheaper then DS. More lube the better!!

[MikeSoFlo]

I have both Rinseless and Waterless ... Rinseless seems like a more potent version of Waterless, right? 

[mc2hill]

2 minutes ago, MikeSoFlo said:

... Rinseless seems like a more potent version of Waterless, right? 

 

They are two different formula's, but Rinseless Wash is the concentrated one.  Rinseless Wash diluted to waterless wash strength (2+ oz RW in 16 oz bottle) is not exactly the same as Waterless Wash, but does they same thing.

[Editguy]

For those using RW for lube what ratio are you diluting it to? 16:1 or 32:1?

 

[wildcatz80]

3 hours ago, MikeSoFlo said:

I have both Rinseless and Waterless ... Rinseless seems like a more potent version of Waterless, right? 

Yes, Rinseless  is concentrated more lubrication as well. Smell Great 

[galaxy]

I keep a gallon of Mothers detail spray on hand for the sole, sacrificial purpose of clay. The Adam’s is for the good jobs. 

[MikeSoFlo]

I brought home some WW. I'm going to try that this weekend and see how the clay process works with it. 

[mc2hill]

On 8/4/2018 at 8:10 AM, MikeSoFlo said:

I brought home some WW. I'm going to try that this weekend and see how the clay process works with it. 

 

Reports are Waterless Wash can be too slick for claying, but I have not used it for that purpose.  Let us know what you find!

[MikeSoFlo]

So I used Waterless Wash and a Clay Mitt this weekend with very good success. I got the mitt very wet with the WW and then sprayed 2'x2' sections at a time with the WW. With very little pressure, I was able to effectively clay the car.  I found the mitt gliding nicely over the vehicle and I could feel the containments being lifted off. The first few passes were rough but the more I passed, the smoother it got. I also didn't notice the mitt laying down any extra marks in the paint. I did end up passing over the car with an SK (that was my plan all a long) but I didn't see the mitt marring the paint. 

 

I can't say WW worked any better or worse than DS but WW is cheaper than DS and if I dilute RW it will be even cheaper, I think WW/RW will be my go to for claying for now on. 

 

Here's a before and after of a bird bomb that I was working on this weekend using the above process. The bomb etched the clear coat pretty bad. It's not 100% gone as I would have needed to wet sand the area but it's 90% gone and really can't be seen unless you are looking for it. 

 

Process:

Cleaned with Ultra Foam Shampoo

Dried with a Great White Drying Towel

Clayed with a Mitt and Waterless Wash

Heavy Cutting Compound on a Microfiber Pad

Cutting Compound on a Foam Pad

Finishing Polish on a Foam Pad

 

 

Edited August 6, 2018 by MikeSoFlo

[Nickfire20]

Looks great,  in the future you could also, re foam the car and clay utilizing the foam,  or just leave the car wet, and use your WW or DS, as the water will provide some extra lube,  then rinse the whole car, then dry.

[JoeyD0831]

7 hours ago, Nickfire20 said:

Looks great,  in the future you could also, re foam the car and clay utilizing the foam,  or just leave the car wet, and use your WW or DS, as the water will provide some extra lube,  then rinse the whole car, then dry.

 

That's how I do it as well

[ExcellentAmp]

On 8/6/2018 at 7:21 PM, Nickfire20 said:

Looks great,  in the future you could also, re foam the car and clay utilizing the foam,  or just leave the car wet, and use your WW or DS, as the water will provide some extra lube,  then rinse the whole car, then dry.

+2 for me as well in regards to using foam. Has worked well for me

[GXPaycheck]

On 8/3/2018 at 12:34 PM, Editguy said:

For those using RW for lube what ratio are you diluting it to? 16:1 or 32:1?

 

There’s a RW dilution chart in here somewheres. Good info if you can find it. 

 

Found it!

 

Edited August 9, 2018 by GXPaycheck

[LSX Maestro]

I too use diluted RW.  It doesn't feel as slick to the touch as WW or DS when on the surface when diluted 16:1, but the clay sure does slide.  

[js1990]

On 8/6/2018 at 11:13 AM, MikeSoFlo said:

So I used Waterless Wash and a Clay Mitt this weekend with very good success. I got the mitt very wet with the WW and then sprayed 2'x2' sections at a time with the WW. With very little pressure, I was able to effectively clay the car.  I found the mitt gliding nicely over the vehicle and I could feel the containments being lifted off. The first few passes were rough but the more I passed, the smoother it got. I also didn't notice the mitt laying down any extra marks in the paint. I did end up passing over the car with an SK (that was my plan all a long) but I didn't see the mitt marring the paint. 

 

I can't say WW worked any better or worse than DS but WW is cheaper than DS and if I dilute RW it will be even cheaper, I think WW/RW will be my go to for claying for now on. 

 

Here's a before and after of a bird bomb that I was working on this weekend using the above process. The bomb etched the clear coat pretty bad. It's not 100% gone as I would have needed to wet sand the area but it's 90% gone and really can't be seen unless you are looking for it. 

 

Process:

Cleaned with Ultra Foam Shampoo

Dried with a Great White Drying Towel

Clayed with a Mitt and Waterless Wash

Heavy Cutting Compound on a Microfiber Pad

Cutting Compound on a Foam Pad

Finishing Polish on a Foam Pad

 

 

 That’s awesome. I tried getting some bird **** off my hood with the clay but it didn’t seem to work. I’ll have to probably polish it out -____-

[MikeSoFlo]

22 hours ago, js1990 said:

 That’s awesome. I tried getting some bird **** off my hood with the clay but it didn’t seem to work. I’ll have to probably polish it out -____-

Clay alone won't do it. The clay will remove the containmanents but if its etched, you'll need to break out the machine and maybe even sand paper. 

[js1990]

2 hours ago, MikeSoFlo said:

Clay alone won't do it. The clay will remove the containmanents but if its etched, you'll need to break out the machine and maybe even sand paper. 

Yeah there’s this one spot that I’ve tried everything. I just bought a polisher and some new pads so hopefully that’ll work. It definitely helped a little, but now where I want it to be. Thanks though??