RayS

Nice ride and Welcome back to the Forum. I used to deal with crazy brake dust on the daughters Range Rover and then we switched the pads to ceramic and the nightmare ended. We couldn't keep the wheels looking decent for more than a couple days and after the change in the pads, I never had to deal with the brake dust again.

In South Carolina it will get too soft during the summer and I have to put it in the fridge and during the winter I have used a coffee warmer to keep it flexible.

@07stanggt and @Bscott94 Being a Mac person, I can tell you that you are spot on about the HEIC format and having issue with it. It is not unique to this site, but applies to many of the forums that I belong to, the HEIC probably fails to upload on 90% of them. Switching to Most Compatible makes all the difference.

Just use a regular baggy, not one of the thick freezer bags.

Made coffee

On the iPhone are you using HDR or standard mode? Also, how are you trying to upload them? If you are using Chrome, Firefox or Safari you should not be having any issues - Internet Explorer is outdated and many web applications do not support it. I have uploaded in the last few days from both the PC and Mac and added pictures I had just taken with the iPhone. Both the PC and Mac are attached to iCloud so the pictures show up on all my devices.

Now you got my attention - I've been waiting for Red buckets to come back. Do they have the gamma seal?

Loose cannon

Welcome to the Forum Vad

@Chris@AdamsHi Chris, The statement about a freshly washed vehicle is the part that I'm having a little challenge with. If I use Ceramic Boost, Ceramic Waterless or CS3 as my drying aid what is the benefit of adding the Graphene Detail Spray after that? If my wife's vehicle (garage queen) sits in the garage for a couple of days and I want to knock the dust particles off it, based on the statement of freshly washed, would you consider it to still meet that criteria. On the non-ceramic vehicles, I use regular detail spray at the stage. Currently for the Ceramic vehicles, I use Ceramic Waterless Wash (because I have a gallon) or CS3. I'm debating on ordering a gallon during the Bogo sale, but want to make sure I'm going to be able to use it.

I was burning a vacation day today and decided to spend some time on the Chrome on the bike. I'm going to make it shine and put it up for sale. It is time to give up the bike, at least a two wheeler. I'm not sure what I'll get as a replacement toy, but I have started looking for something to take it's place.

There is no doubt that you can and the members of this forum will help you get it there. Just be patient and willing to experiment and learn. If you don't have a test panel, stop by your local pick-a-part and grab a small trunk lid, it really helps to practice. If you are like me and have your kids car to practice on, forget the test panel.

Wax on, Wax off - wrong movie. Wax buildup

Hi Jake, I would highly recommend getting CS3, it is easy to deal with and leaves the vehicle looking great. A little can go a long way, so don't put too much on while working with it.

Absolutely beautiful.

Welcome to the Forum Colin.

I had the same thing happen to a vehicle with Ceramic Spray and it turns out that the sprinklers had a heavy dose of chlorine or something similar and etched in to the coating. The only option was a complete polish and do it again. I cannot say for certain that is what you will need to do, but the picture sure looks similar. Chemicals in sprinklers that dry onto a vehicle can really mess up a good coating, wax, polish, etc...

I also tend to go toward the 3M tape and like the 3/4 or 1 inch. I tried to use the 1/2 a few times and couldn't keep it straight. The green is the preference on a black or blue vehicle, it stands our better and of course I avoid the green on green vehicle. If I am working a very tight space, especially around headlights or delicate places, I will use the Red vinyl water resistant electrical tape by 3M. It is easy to work with, sticks good even when you stray something on it or hit it with the polisher and it doesn't leave any residue when you take it off within an hour or so. A word of warning, missing a piece and leaving it in the South Carolina sun for 2 days, will make it a pain to take off. The series is the 3M Temflex vinyl electrical tape 1700C and there are multiple colors, but the Red is the least expensive, plus I like red. Store it in the house or in a cool place out of the sun or heat. One $3 roll will last me a couple of years.

Adapter pattern

I'll get this one started, because I used to totally suck at getting glass clean no matter how hard I tried, then I found a few combinations that worked and work well. Actually too well, since now I have to do the house windows also. Step 1, is getting the glass contaminate free. This is more than just dirt, tree sap and other stuff that is stuck. In my kit, I have Adam's Glass Cleaner, clay, plastic razor blades, regular car shampoo and #0000 steel wool. Starting with the Glass cleaner and Green towel, wash the windshield. Then go over it with the baggie test, recognizing the difference between crud and pits takes a little getting used to and sometimes it is really hard to tell. You can clay a windshield and sometimes I do, but most of the time I use the plastic razor blade and car shampoo as a lube. Why car shampoo, because it lubes, cleans and completely rinses off without any haze. The #0000 steel wool is the last resort item, make sure it is the #0000 to prevent further marring and it may take some work, but will remove many items that nothing else will touch. Step 2, Once we have all the crud off the windshield, go over it again with Adam's glass cleaner. For the windshield, I like the Adam's Glass Sealant, followed by the Glass Boost. In fact, when we travel I take the Glass Boost with me and that is how I clean the windshield, never using one of the gas station squeegee. Every 1-3 months based on storage and weather, repeat the process. Step 3, Side windows and rear window get washed with Adam's Glass Cleaner followed by Adam's Spray Wax. Just mist a borderless grey with the Adam's Spray Wax and then go over the window, they'll take on a reflective characteristic and nothing sticks to them and I do the same for same for outside mirrors. Step 4, The inside glass and review mirror are all done with Brilliant Glaze and nothing else. In fact, the inside windows of the house and mirrors are all done with Brilliant Glaze as the glass on the lights.

Followed directions

A good way to mess up a bunch of single and double softs is toss them in the washer right after hash products were used or somebody missed the dryer sheet when they took their stuff out of the dryer. As for tossing towels, unless they are so bad, they can't be used a grease rag, they never go in the garbage. I get every last drop of use out of mine. They generally go from the body, to wheels & tires, the exhaust tips and engines to general mechanics grease rags. The body ones are the only ones that get the proper wash treatment with the Towel & Pad Revitalizer, the rest go to the side and generally get a bucket and hose taken to them.

@falcaineer @Bscott94 what is missing from the chart is the Wash & Coat. I use it every 3rd wash on my ceramic based vehicles using my Foam Gun and like the results. The foam is a bit thinner than the others, but I've found it lubricates very well, smells good and leaves the vehicle looking good.

Welcome Pete. My only trip to Norway was to Oslo and we spent way too many hours inside a windowless building.

Product accepted