GerryC

My uses for WW:
 
- Immediately after arriving at a car show to safely remove whatever got onto the car during the drive. DS will come afterwards when the paint is clean and dirt-free.
 
- Wiping down door/trunk/hood jambs before washing the car, so when water flows through it isn't bringing that dirty water out onto the paint.
 
- Drying agent. Many people use DS here but I prefer WW as it helps get rid of stubborn spots that did not come off with the regular wash.
 
- Pre-wax cleaner. After polishing a panel I will use WW to wipe down the panel before applying wax or sealant so there is no polish residue left behind. Other people will use IPA but I feel this is safer (and more pleasantly-smelling). I also use is to clean up wheels and exhaust tips before putting QS on them.
 
I've had mixed results using WW as a wash bucket additive and I can't pinpoint the cause. It adds lubricity but sometimes it will mute the suds created by the shampoo.

I wrapped a utility towel (short nap provides a bit more bite) around my index finger, put a drop of PCP on the end, and just scrubbed the area back and forth, up and down (mimicking the movement of a polisher) until the polish was gone. Used a single soft to wipe off the residue, and bam:
 
Before:
 

 
After:
 

I rarely use LIC on my own cars because they simply do not need it. I use LC on my seats and door panels where the actual thick hide leather is, and I use TID on my dashboard and all the hard plastic pieces. The only downside I have found is that the odor-eliminating properties of the TID seem to mute the leather smell of the conditioner. The anti-static is phenomenal though, especially on the dash. Once I started using TID I've noticed basically zero dust on my dashboard while driving.

Giggity

BG on chrome will melt your face, throw a coat of that on after the sealant.
 
For the hard to reach areas,  do you have any of the detailing swabs? Or maybe take an older applicator and cut it up into something more workable for tight spaces.

aye aye aye..
 
Well I got three wheels on, got the the 4th and as I'm taking off the final lug, the fking stud snaps..

Thanks. I'm not real bright. Proves they'll let just about anyone be a moderator around here... 

I agree. Also listen to what Gerry said.
 
Next time dress your rubber and plastic with SVRT before waxing, so if you do get some wax on a piece of trim, it will be easier to remove 

I agree. Also listen to what Gerry said.
 
Next time dress your rubber and plastic with SVRT before waxing, so if you do get some wax on a piece of trim, it will be easier to remove 

I agree. Also listen to what Gerry said.
 
Next time dress your rubber and plastic with SVRT before waxing, so if you do get some wax on a piece of trim, it will be easier to remove 

How's all that look now?

How's all that look now?

Oh crap, it's become sentient.
 
RUN

Oh crap, it's become sentient.
 
RUN

Oh crap, it's become sentient.
 
RUN

Water probably rolled off. As long as it didn't look like THIS then you have nothing to worry about. Go test it, put some water in a cup and go pour it on the hood. See what it does.

LOL... Um... Portable Apple operating system issue that is.  
 

Oh crap, it's become sentient.
 
RUN

Oh crap, it's become sentient.
 
RUN

Well then, there's one plugin that works properly

Does he also use whiteout as touch-up paint?
 
-______________-

Use the pad conditioning brush to break up any loose polish, give the face of the pad a few sprays with Microfiber Revitalizer, agitate, and wash with warm water - separate from all your other items, even your MF towels. Air dry, avoid fabric softener.
 
More information in the first post here: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/23891-new-2-step-paint-correction-system-discussion/

Spray some APC on a utility towel and scrub. Then follow up with SVRT to condition and protect.

Spray some APC on a utility towel and scrub. Then follow up with SVRT to condition and protect.

Spray some APC on a utility towel and scrub. Then follow up with SVRT to condition and protect.