mc2hill got a reaction from JP1129 in 3 step correction over multiple days
Good luck Justin! As the others have said it may not require 3 steps. With the advances in polishers, pads, and polishes most times you can correct + finish in one step. Sometimes a finishing polish is needed, but on most cars I do I get by with just one step.
mc2hill reacted to DanielChaves in Rock hard mud looks like clay? Suggestions of safe removal?
Scratch that I wont be free this coming weekend to do a full wash, clay, and polish of my car after all. Just got hired to do a gig with Robert Matthew Van Winkle for Saturday at LA Live, he called me up and asked if I wanted to work with him again which duh of course I do, it was a freaking blast the last time I got to work with him.
My poor car, all I have been able to do is maintenance washes. I have been wanting to do a full detail since Christmas but I need at least a good solid two days to do such but I keep having things come up that eat a day out of my weekend. ^^;;
mc2hill reacted to falcaineer in 3 step correction over multiple days
Wecome to the world of paint correction, @JP1129! No issues with over multiple days. It will take longer than you think, especially your first time, so planning the extra time is a good idea.
- While you have the 3 Step, it may not all be needed. Using blue painters tape (no locking edges!), tape off a 2'x2' section representative of the entire car - most use the hood - and start with the least aggressive (Finishing Polish, white pad). Wipe off residue and see how it looks. If not enough, move up a polish and pad to CP and orange foam pad. Check again. And so on. Whatever you need to get that section right should suffice for the rest of the car, with maybe some exceptions...spot polish, of you will. Doing this will save you the headache of getting "done," only to realize you need to go all over it again...and maybe again. Trust me!
- Paint Sealant will go quickly, so you may not need or want to wait a day at a time. Simply apply a thin, even layer all the way around, then wipe away residue with a plush microfiber. No cure time needed. Using the grey foam pad on the SK, low speed (2 or 3) will yield great results, laying it ln thin and evenly. You can also apply with the grey microfiber pad.
- Use isopropyl alcohol 50/50 or Surface Prep and some Waterless Wash towels to remove polish residue before applying PS. There's no need to remove clay residue before you polish...it will come off when you polish and/or wipe use the surface prep.
Finally, assuming of age, have an adult beverage at the ready...and take and post some before and after pics. Ask any more questions you have. 😎
mc2hill reacted to TheWolf in What did you do today?
Checked airfare to down-under so I can buy a new cordless polisher. 😁
Its a short-throw DA with a selector switch to put in gear-driven mode.
Makita has some serious cordless tools with power equal to and even exceeding corded models.
I have already switched all my outdoor power equipment to Makita cordless and love not having the noise and fumes of gas-powered equipment.
So I am already stocked with batteries for when this hits the US.
It will be interesting to see if the gear-driven mode will correct more like a long-throw, even though the Makita has a shorter-throw.
mc2hill reacted to Captain Slow in What did you do today?
The ophthalmologist my wife works for closed his practice and retired March 30th. I was honored to be his last patient; no visual field changes and excellent eye health considering my glaucoma diagnosis almost twenty five years ago.
Anyway, he let us have four giant cabinets that housed some of his patients medical files. One is in the basement now full of detailing supplies and the other three are in the garage. I removed the doors from the one in the basement but I’m leaving the doors on the three in the garage.
Note: Waterless Wash, Detail Spray, Microfiber Revitalizer, Tire & Rubber Cleaner, Turbo Stick, old wooden handled lug nut brush and clay bars were on different shelves when I got the itch to snap these pics. They are now all reunited and happily living on the same shelf away from the influence of Barry Meguiar, Richard Griot, Jim Lafeber and Bob McKee.
Today before the family came over for Sunday dinner I rinseless washed the cabinets then dried them. They were then treated to Adam’s Quick Sealant followed by a competitor’s paint sealant. Yes, the spray head popped off and I had to go chase after it but that’s the fun of using Quick Sealant! 😁👍🏼
Tomorrow everything on the garage shelves is coming down and going into those same cabinets. Best part is the price: free for the hauling! Worst part is I’m now down to three full cans of Quick Sealant.
mc2hill reacted to Captain Slow in Happy Easter
Last night I had the talk with my ten, soon to be eleven year old twin daughters regarding the easter bunny. They both admitted the idea of a rabbit bringing eggs full of candy was somewhat sketchy. We then discussed the crucifixion, death and resurrection of Jesus Christ and what it means to us and our Christian faith. This morning when they came downstairs, separately, I greeted them with “Hallelujah, He is risen! “ They responded with “ He is risen, indeed.”
A Happy Easter to all.
mc2hill reacted to shiny ride in Going Racing with Adams Polishes
You may have seen my testimonial for using Adams with the 1969 Firebird my son and I built. We still have the car and to this day maintain it to show car level.
Today I want to also tell you about using Adams polishes in racing. Here in Northern California we participate in NASA, Trackmasters and Checkered Flag Racing events primarily at Sonoma Raceway, Laguna Seca and Thunderhill. The track is a very tough environment. Because of that we paint our cars at Maaco, and use their single stage paint. Cheap...yes. As far as quality, we have been very pleased. We get tons of compliments about how good the car looks. But I do have a secret.....Adams polishes and paint sealant.
This 1987 BMW was painted Seafoam green October 2018 at Maaco. Last weekend we took it out for the first time at Thunderhill in Willows CA. After 10 sessions, 3.5 hours track time it passed the shakedown test. And boy, it needed a bath, polish and wax. Just finished that today, check out the results. Next up.....Laguna Seca
mc2hill got a reaction from DanielChaves in Hello Everyone! Adams is quickly become one of my favorite brands!
Could be some paint the spilled on the road. Try 3M Adhesive remover with a plastic razor blade, but be very gentle when scrapping. You can clay it using APC, but that will eat the clay.
mc2hill reacted to RayS in Black carpet and sand...
The brown sand tends to come out with the shop vac alone unless it is damp, but the white sand clings. What I have found that works the best, although not perfect, is to use the shop vac, plus a somewhat stiff stiff brush like @mc2hill showed. It seems that once the brush gets the sand to move, the shop vac has the power to pull it the rest of the way out. I tried one of the brushes that goes on the end of the shop vac, but it was not effective, I think there was too much distance between the brush the real suction.
mc2hill got a reaction from Nickfire20 in Adam's Forums Post Milestone & /Anniversary Thread
Today is my 10 year anniversary on Adam's Forums!
Ten years ago I was looking to upgrade my detailing "game" (and to find something to do with my spare time since my son moved up to HS basketball and did not need my help/taxi service) and attended a local car show with a co-worker. The local Adam's dealer was there demonstrating on a Foose Challenger (it was built in a Vegas episode of Overhaulin') and he showed how to remove swirls. I purchased Detail Spray and VRT that night, and never looked back! The co-worker and I (and a 3rd co-worker) all purchased Porter Cable DA's over the next few months. After a couple of months I had a lot of the Adam's product line, and found a mentor to help answer questions.
Over these 10 years, I upgraded to a GG 6", then to Rupes machines, and have been fortunate to be involved with product testing for Adam's and a few other companies. I have made several friends on this and other detailing forums, and worked a weekend at an Adam's event at the Daytona Turkey Rod Run. And have been lucky enough to attend lots of education classes with near by vendors, and the past 4 years to attend Mobile Tech Expo here in Orlando, with more education and hands on evaluation of the newest products.
Oh, and the 2 co-workers...I see the PC's in boxes when I go their houses to detail their cars!
mc2hill reacted to falcaineer in Adam's Forums Post Milestone & /Anniversary Thread
Well, I somehow hit 3K "likes" yesterday, so a big THANK YOU to all who liked my inputs enough to hit that little icon 👍. This is such an awesome place to learn and be a part of...hats off to each of you for choosing such incredible products from the best detailing business out there 💯. @Team Adam's
And for @Sizzle Chest, I'd like to send you something for putting me over the top, and @Trevor, you, too, for getting me to 3001 and making up for someone's possible mistake of liking an input by accident 😆. Sending you both a PM now...
mc2hill reacted to RayS in Garage Queen
I'll be the first to answer this: Yes to either or both.
The general rule of thumb is the most durable product first, but in the case of BG it helps hide minor imperfections and in my experience it has not changed the durability of the products I have put it under. When BG is on top, it will really make the vehicle pop, but it only lasts a couple of days. Generally, when I'm putting BG on top, it is for the weekend or a show.
Don't forget to do the inside of your windshield and house mirrors, it does an amazing job on both.
mc2hill reacted to TheWolf in Claying Ceramic coating
No. Ceramic Waterless Wash, like regular Waterless Wash, is more of a cleaner and does not have the lubricity to be used for claying. For typical claying, Detail Spray and diluted Rinseless Wash provide the lubricity. But since these both leave wax or polymers, I had recommended claying the coating with shampoo suds.
Even when claying paint that has not heen coated, I still prefer claying with shampoo suds. It provides great lubrication, and saves time when the claying is done as part of the wash process. After the wash and rinse, foam it up again and clay, then rinse again. This also saves the step of having to remove the claying residue with a towel before polishing or applying protection. My thought is that this residue removal is a source of marring and scratching the paint. While some contaminates do stick to the clay or mitt, some or even most are just knocked loose and reside in the residue. So going after the residue removal with a towel is essentially just rubbing those contaminates around on the paint causing damage. So, by using suds and claying as part of the wash, the claying residue is rinsed right off, which is safer on your paint.
This fact of contaminates getting knocked loose during claying and residing in the residue is why you should NEVER polish right over the residue, or apply wax or sealant right over the residue. Polishing over the residue is the worst, since any contaminates in the residue get picked up in the pads and worked against the paint by the machine. Also, the clay residue clogs up the pads making them less effective and increasing the time required for polishing. And it does not matter that it has been done and people do it, it just does not make any sense. Even the time savings justification that it "skips a step not removing the residue" does not make sense, since the time lost to clogged-up pads far exceeds the minimal time it takes to remove the residue before polishing.
I know that I got a little carried away in this reply since that was not part of the original question, but just thought it should be discussed.
mc2hill reacted to kaj41354 in 52 Chevy First Detail.
Bought this car a couple months ago and finally have had some nice warm weather where I could tackle the first detail on it. I was told that the paint may have been original but it was definitely at least 42 years old. The car had swirls everywhere and showed some oxidation. Taking the recommendations of some of the more experience detailers here on this forum, after washing and claying this beautiful beast, I tackled it with Revive. after several cleanings of my 2 applicators and making my hands and coveralls the same color as the car, the car looked pretty good. I think that previous owners must have only washed and waxed without any time of detailing. I then hit it with Paint sealant and at that point was a little disappointed. It was starting to get dark and my 65 y.o. arms were sore so, I waited til the next morning to complete the job. My disappointment turned to joy after using Brilliant Glaze and Americana. This is my first time using Revive and despite what I have read, at least 80% of the Swirl marks are gone and the oxidation appears to be either gone or at least not visible. Spent at least 9 hours total but I have to say, it was worth it!!!
Thank you Adam's for another great product and to those forum member who gave me the advice
mc2hill reacted to Rich in Daughters Ride
Yeah, these daughters can be a real pain. I've been CHEVY all my life, and what does she do? Goes and marries a Ford guy. After I paid for college and everything!!! No loyalty. But what can we do. They're always daddy's little girls.
Nice job dad. Just don't give her her allowance for a month.