The 2009 Range Rover ended up covered in tree sap and needed some overall love. There are multiple pictures and I used the opportunity for some experimentation since I know I have more work to do later.
The first picture is how it looked when it was delivered to me just after sun up this morning. The second picture is of the wheels and they are always nasty on the Rover and we're hoping the new ceramic brakes and new rotors will help the situation.
The wheels and tires are always first, then the vehicle gets washed and final touch up on the wheels, so the third picture is after the full wash and touch up of the wheels and I'm showing the products and tools used to get them cleaned up. The picture in the garage doesn't do them justice, you'll be able to see the actual shine clearly in the final picture.
The Rover has a full glass top, which has a lot of etching and was covered with tree sap also. I forgot to grab a picture before I washed it, but I'm sure you can imagine based on the hood in the first picture. The first picture of the top is after the rinse and the next one is the after using CB 2.0 as a drying aide. Even with all the etching, it came out very good and the CB added clarity and reflective properties that had not existed before. This is my first time trying CB on a sunroof, so I'll see how it does before I try it on the Terrain.
For the scary picture, the next one is after the wash and dry with the Rover in the garage and looking at the hood. I'm very thankful for APC, Plastic Razor Blades and Car Shampoo. While most of it came off with diluted APC, there were some tough spots that required a little extra lube and the plastic razor blade. For the windshield, I used straight APC and one place had to use a plastic razor blade.
Now that the worst is over, it's time to start polishing - not so fast... Good news is that I'm finally going to get a 15 mm Swirl Killer, the bad news is that I ended up doing the entire Rover by hand. I knew I was going to be in trouble or very sore, maybe both, so I went with One Step Polish. I did do a test spot with Revive and it just wasn't quite enough and the test spot with One Step Polish looked good. No doubt it was a shortcut to get it good enough, with a plan to do a full correction later this summer. I also knew I couldn't go with Correcting Polish and Finishing Polish by hand and do any better.
I must say that it came out better than I expected going with One Step Polish, then Paint Sealant followed by Americana and topped with Brilliant Glaze for the weekend Pop.
For reference, when I started this morning it as 76 with a heat index of 80 and right now it is 94 with a heat index of 105. I'm sure glad that I'm done for the day.
So I spent the last two days working on my 19 Equinox. It's black, so every single flaw is going to show up. Washed and clayed the car, polished it using the Finishing Polish and Swirl Killer, wiped her down with the Ceramic Surface Prep, then started with Ceramic Spray Coating. Two days of busting my rear in 90* heat in the garage, and I have to say, I'm damn happy with the results. Check out the pictures. The last pic isn't dust............that's the metal flake in the paint. It just POPS now.
Sorry for the wait. Here I'll tell you my process. I'm sure some others on this discussion may have some different input or suggestions to better this process, so please be open to those suggestions too. So total time I spent working hands on was around 4 hours. I'll try to give you the products I used (with links) and reasons for each step I took. This can become repetitive and tedious at times, but I'm doing so because I believe that I'm reducing the chances of damaging my paint. I think I would follow this process even if I chose to use a different type of protection, but it's pretty important to take preparation steps for a ceramic coating as @falcaineer mentioned.
1. Cleaned tires, wheels, wheel wells, and exhaust tip - I always start with this step so as to not put water on paint. If I don't put water on the paint, then the water won't dry and it reduces the chances of water spots. I go one wheel at a time rinsing my tools in between. I make sure to have all my tools and chemicals prepared before putting water on the vehicle. What I mean by that is I have a bucket full of water and a little bit of CS, and I put all of my tools in the bucket. I start by spraying water all over the wheel, tire, and wheel well. Then spray some diluted APC into the wheel wells (I use APC because the majority of my wheel wells are carpet not rubber or plastic), then I take my Fender Brush (one of my favorites) and I brush the entirety of the wheel well. Then I rinse the wheel well. I follow that by spraying TRC onto the tire face and tread block, and use a Tire Brush to clean. In this step, the tires start to turn orange/brown which shows that the tires are dirty. I repeat this step until the chemical no longer turns brown but appears white. Then I spray WC into the wheel barrel, rotors, and wheel face. You'll see the spray starting to turn red/purple, this means the chemical is reacting with and breaking down the iron/metallic particles that contaminate the wheel from brake dust and other grime from the road. I use a wheel brush to agitate the chemical, I actually like to use the Lug Nut brush to agitate the rotors and get in the lug nuts, and I also think it's a good option to use for the face of the wheel. Then I would either use a wheel woolie or a barrel brush to get the wheel barrel and the back of the spokes. Then I would make sure to rinse the tire, wheel, and wheel wells thoroughly. and to avoid scratching the wheels, I try to rinse my tools after I use them before I put them back in the bucket. Then I repeat for each wheel. For the exhaust tips, I basically just spray APC into the exhaust and use the wheel woolie or barrel brush to agitate, then rinse it all out.
Wheel Cleaner (WC)
Tire and Rubber Cleaner (TRC)
All Purpose Cleaner, Diluted 1:1 with water (APC)
Car Shampoo (CS)
Wheel Woolie or Wheel Barrel Brush
Lug Nut Brush
Here's Adams Process:
2. Wash Car with Strip Wash - This step is to not only clean the vehicle exterior, the strip wash is also trying to break down any protection (wax, sealant, etc.) you have on your vehicle. This can sound like a bad thing, but just keep in mind, later in this process we will be adding protection back to the paint, and likely a much better protection. We want to remove any existing protection, because we want the paint to be "naked." This will allow the coating to properly bond with the paint/clear coat. Start by having everything prepared before putting any water on the paint, once again we want to reduce the chance of water spots especially on your beautiful black vehicles. Preferably you would use a two bucket wash method, in addition I love to use a pressure washer and foam cannon. If using a pressure washer and foam cannon, put about 4-5 oz of strip wash in the foam cannon bottle, and I like to use 2-3oz of APC as well, I have seen in the past how APC is such a good degreaser that it will break down sealants and waxes. The problem there is if it dries on the paint, it can cause damage. So I was very careful about using APC. I start by rinsing the vehicle first, with only water, them immediately (since I am prepared) I attach my foam cannon and cover the vehicle in the strip wash/APC solution. I let that dwell for maybe 2 minutes. If you're not using a foam cannon you can start here by having two buckets filled with water and grit guards. One has only clean water and a grit guard, the other has your soap solution of 3-4 oz of strip wash, and here I also like to add 2-3 oz of APC again. My wash mitt(s) go in the soap solution until after I have initially rinsed the vehicle. Once I have rinsed I grab my wash mitt and go from the top of the vehicle to the bottom. I am always aware of what's on my mitt, and if I picked up dirt or sticks or whatever, I make sure to get it off by either picking it out, using the pressure washer to clean it off, and putting my mitt in the bucket with only water and rubbing against the grit guard to clean the mitt before dunking back into the soap bucket. Try to keep the vehicle wet and lubricated by squeezing your mitt to release water/soap, until you finish cleaning the vehicle, and then immediately rinse thoroughly. If you need to take a break or if you aren't prepared for step 3, I would dry. (I wasn't prepared so I dried) if you have the option to dry with air, that's a good option, if not use a microfiber towel with no drying aid, meaning don't use Detail Spray or anything just use the towel. If you can go straight into step 3, do that you will dry the vehicle after that!
All Purpose Cleaner (APC)
Wash Mitt or Sponge, etc
Microfiber Drying Towel
3. Chemical and Clay Decontamination- Every vehicle has contamination on it, even new ones. In this step you will be removing contamination that has been stuck in the clear coat. This step can look very different depending on who you talk to. Some people like to do this step during the wash, I'm not sure if there's a "right way", but this is how I did it following the wash and dry: I start by spraying down the vehicle (depending on the weather and if you're doing this indoor or out door you may want to go panel by panel) with IR (or you can use a diluted WC), This acts just like WC in that it's reaction with iron and metallic contamination turns red/purple. It may be hard to see on black. I didn't see it on my dark grey paint, but I could see it dripping purple on the concrete when I was washing it off... Anyways I sprayed the whole vehicle, then let it sit for 1-2 minutes. The weather was cloudy and like 50ºF. Then I rinsed it all off. Then I used a clay lube and used a clay bar to remove other contaminants that are stuck in the clear coat. I normally use very careful, very light pressure (since clay is an abrasive) and never ever do it dry. Always make sure the surface is lubricated. Do this for all the wheels, paint, glass, chrome, or anything that shines, I don't use it for my trim peices. You will see and feel your clay bar start to pick up little specs of contamination. Periodically keep an eye on how much contamination is on the clay bar, and you may need to bend/reshape the clay in order to get a clean surface before continuing. Important note: you never want to drop this on the ground. It will pick up rocks and stuff that can drag some nice scratches in your paint. That goes for microfiber towels and wash mitts too. They love to grab stuff so be careful never to put them on the ground. I like to rinse and dry once I'm done with the clay, others don't think its a necessary step.
Iron Remover (IR) or Wheel Cleaner, diluted (WC)
Clay Lube (Diluted Rinseless Wash, Diluted Car Shampoo, Detail Spray... for the Ceramic Coating prep any of these would work, but I would lean more towards the diluted car shampoo as you won't be leaving any polymers or anything on the paint)
Clay Bar of Choice (I used and Liked Visco Elastic Clay, People with large vehicles love the Clay Mitt, I think the most mild clay that would do the least amount of damage would be the Fine Clay Bar)
4. Polishing- Get indoors if you can at this point. This step is important to get your paint as perfect as possible. This is highly recommended and I recommend it. Once you apply the coating any defects your paint may have will now be sealed under the coating. My vehicle was relatively new, and I didn't have many defects to my paint, so I skipped the polishing step. Looking back, I would have done a polish even if just a RHP. Polishing will make a difference. Although I didn't do it, I would recommend you at least do a polish with the finishing polish with the white pad at this step. RHP with a blue hex grip pad (or white pad if using a machine) would be the last thing I would do before moving on. The polishing step is pretty heavily subjective depending on your preferences and your specific paint, so please feel free to ask me any questions you have about this, and I can try to answer them or point you to some help. But since I don't know the specifics, it's hard for me to direct you on here. Looking back, I would have done a polish even if just a RHP. Polishing will make a difference. Although I didn't do it, I would recommend you at least do a polish with the finishing polish with the white pad at this step. Also, The OSP with the One Step Pads look awesome and I'm excited to try them out. RHP with a blue hex grip pad (or white pad if using a machine), and remove with a microfiber towel, would be the last thing I would do before moving on. Also Work in very small sections at a time... Like 2 x 2 small.
Revive Hand Polish (RHP)
One Step Polish (OSP)
Polisher (if you don't have one, it looks like Adams in the future may be introducing a rental program for polishers)
One Step Pads
Blue hex grip pad
Single-soft Microfiber Towel, or Double-soft Microfiber Towel
5. Surface Prep- This is crucial to the process. To fully clean the surface and remove an polishing oils or leftover wax that may be lingering. Us Adam's SP or a solution of Isopropyl Alcohol to spray down the paint and wipe with a Single-soft Microfiber Towel, or if you prefer, spray on the towel and wipe the surface. Do this for the glass and all the paint and the lights, and chrome and wheels. On the rubber trim pieces, possibly on your truck bed liner, I would use TRC with a Microfiber Utility Towel to clean those peices. I am not sure for the bed liner, maybe somebody else has a better idea for that. but then once all of this is cleaned, you're ready to move onto the coating stage.
Surface Prep (SP) or IPA solution
Tire and Rubber Cleaner (TRC)
Single-soft Microfiber Towel
Microfiber Utility Towel
6. Protection- Do this in the garage. This is the step to apply your protection. Whether that be Wax, Sealant, or Ceramic Coating. For the CSC, you will want to have that prepared with a few clean towels for the "removal" or "leveling" of the coating. I only used a competitors towels that I had gotten for cheap because I love Adam's towels and I don't want to throw them away if I use them for a Ceramic Coating. But that was before Adam's came out with their new ceramics line and added the suede removal towels and before I had thought about using a Microfiber Applicator as the application media. So I had two towels one for applying and one for leveling. Next time, I will use the Microfiber Applicator and a Suede Removal towel. Wear gloves. Spray the CSC a few times directly into the Microfiber Applicator. Using a cross hatch pattern apply to a small section (2x2). The cross hatch pattern is just to ensure coverage. Then wait 30 - 90 seconds until you see the surface start to flash (it turns rainbow and looks like oil on water) - make sure you have good lighting. Then use the suede removal towel to lvel the product. Basically you just gently wipe until the surface is glossy. It's important that you go over the paint where you've applied the coating. If you don't or if you miss any spots you'll get something called "high spots" on the paint which can look like streaks or build up of product. Look up some pictures of high spots on the forums. Those are no fun, you'll likely have to polish out the coating and reapply. So just be aware and diligent. That's where working in small sections can really really help. So continue moving around the vehicle like this. Make sure you get your glass, chrome, lights, and trim. The CSC is pretty much safe on all exterior surfaces. @falcaineer mentioned that on trim, you don't need to go over the second time since it will self level there. When I did it, I did go over it a second time. Next time I will try doing it without. I did not use CSC on my wheels, but you may choose do and just follow the same procedure. Once you've finished coating the vehicle, it's time to wait and let it cure. CSC needs 4 hours minimum. I left mine over night. You'll notice a huge difference in gloss. It's really special to see the results of your hard work.
Ceramic Spray Coating (CSC)
Suede Removal Towels
Make sure you throw away any towel or applicator you used for the Coating. The SiO2 will dry in the medium and essentially become shards of glass that will scratch your paint if you ever put them back on the surface.
7. Boost- After you've let the coating fully cure, this is the time to add CB if you choose to. Use less product than you think. Go one panel at a time.You would just spray the CB onto the surface and wipe with a microfiber towel, double-soft works well. Then flip the towel over (or use a second clean and dry one) and wipe until it's shiny. CB (or anything with SiO2) can also be the culprit of High Spots, so just be aware of that. I always give a second wipe down to any SiO2 product I use. If at any point you see that it's getting streaky and your dry side of the towel is no longer leading to a shine, it's time to flip the towel to a new side or get a new clean and dry towel. A good way of using microfiber towels is to have them folded into quarters, and then you have 8 total sides of a towel to switch to if one gets dirty or saturated. This goes for pretty much any time you want to use one, not just for the CB. This is the point where I got my wheels. Make sure to get your wheels! This is also when I used my tire shine or tire armor.
Ceramic Boost (CB)
Double-soft Microfiber Towel
This is a great video I have found where Adam goes into pretty good detail for a lot of these steps. He does some things that I didn't do. For example he applies glass sealant and paint sealant. We don't want those because our CSC will act as the protection for both the glass and the paint. So his goal at the end of this video is different than the things we are trying to acheive, but he still takes the time to explain in detail the steps. SO it's a great video. Adam's has an awesome library of videos throughout their website and on youtube. Check those out!
And you're done! now to enjoy the benefits of the coating. Your gloss will be awesome! and future washes will be easier. Just use Car shampoo and dry and all the dirt will just come flying off. Also make sure to peek the window if you ever leave your vehicle in the rain. Water will just slide off. It's likely you will use your windshield wipers less, if you coat the windshield. I rarely use my windshield wipers, I love watching the water go up up and away. In future washes just follow a normal procedure, and you can use CB about once every month or so to boost the coating after you wash your car. About every or every other wash I love to use Ceramic Waterless Wash as a detail spray and drying aid. It's an amazing product. Also there are some other shampoos like the Wash+Coat and Wash and Wax which contain SiO2 and can also add a small boost to the coating. So just find a process that works for you.
There's a big initial investment of time and money especially if you're just starting off, but I found that really enjoy my time detailing my vehicle and others' vehicles. It's therapeutic and Adam's products really enhance the process for me. And once you get those tools and towels, those will last you a while with proper care, so the majority of things you'll need in the future are refills or the occasional new chemical you want to try.
Speaking of care... After I finish using a towel, I immediately throw it in a bucket full of water and I'll try to have some APC in the bucket or some detergent if handy. If not, car shampoo will do. But reason for that is to start breaking down whatever the towel may have picked up. If a towel is especially dirty like when I rinseless wash or waterless wash, my towels get real dirty. I put them in a bucket of water and once I'm ready (normally just later in the day, I don't like to leave towels for more than a day) I will spray the dirty towels down with APC and Rinse them with High pressure, whether I have my pressure washer out or I can just use my outdoor spigot, which has a good bit of pressure out of the wall. I let that loosen the dirt, then I take them to the Washing Machine. Also, if I use any SiO2 product, I immediately put those in a bucket of water because even if a product has a low level of SiO2 like the Wash+Coat, Wash and Wax, Ceramic Waterless Wash, and Ceramic Boost, that SiO2 can dry if you give it enough time. So I put those in water and wash those towels as soon as I possibly can. I wash them in Cold Cold water, Adam's has their own detergent which is GREAT. Microfiber Revitalizer. And I add an extra rinse cycle. I dry like in the dryer using Low Heat or No Heat.
I never ever mix my microfibers with cotton or really anything else, I normally have enough to wash a small load after a wash.
Here's a thread for Microfiber Care:
Below is an image of my paint after my maintenance wash yesterday. I just used CS to clean the wheels and the paint. I used TRC for the tires, and used Ceramic Waterless Wash as my drying aid with my Jumbo Plush Drying Towel (and went back over the whole car lightly with a double soft until it was shiny).
Here you can see the gloss from the coating is still there, even months after I coated, and I haven't used Ceramic Boost in like 6 weeks or so:
Then it obviously rained after I washed my vehicle because you know how this works, but I woke up to these nice beads:
I will update this later today with some links and pictures and stuff. I hope this helps.
I included links, pictures and videos. That's alot... Sorry.
G&G will not lubricate well enough to be used as a clay lube. BUT if you are looking to be more efficient, I have a suggestion:
Wash the panel with Rinseless Wash
Spray with clay lube (Detail Spray or diluted Rinsewash)
Decontaminate the panel with the Clay Mitt
Wash the panel area again with Rinseless Wash (makes sure the panel is wet)
Apply H2O G&G
Level with damp MF towel
Every wonder how we do door jams and tight spaces quickly? The answer is a steamer and a tornador tool.
Our steamer is a Vapor Chief 135 that allows us to mix chemical in the same line. With the steam it really heats the product which makes it super effective. We tend to run diluted APC through ours, but in the winter we can run rinseless through it to do an entire car. It just takes a little time.
A good entry level steamer is the McColluch MC1385. It doesn’t allow continuous fill while hot, doesn’t mix chemical in the line and is lower pressure but will make a difference in how you work.
In these two videos (sorry for my poor video skill, it’s not easy to work and video), you can see how the steamer does a ton of work. Once the steamer does it’s things, you can wipe them clean with ease.
Typically before we wipe though, we use the Tornador tool. This tool runs off of the air compressor (and is air hungry with heavy use) but uses compressed air and chemical to mobilize contamination. We also run this with diluted APC frequently.
When you combine these tolls, tight spaces don’t stand a chance! Door jams are cleaned with easy as well as seams.
The borderless grey towels are generally the best option for HGG, https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-borderless-grey-edgeless-towel.html Since they're grey they won't stain, or at least it won't be noticeable. Special care meaning they should be washed right away, not allowing the HGG to set in the towels, or put in a bucket of water with a few ounces of APC in the meantime, and be washed with the Microfiber Revitalizer. They should also be washed by themselves, in my experience. On the other hand, towels with Spray Wax can be left alone for a while until washed with other microfiber towels.
Thursday night we had a downburst that took out my back yard flag pole, the neighbors fence and numerous branches in our end of the subdivision.
Today I picked up a made in the USA flag and pole set to replace the damaged one. Before I assembled and mounted it I treated the pole, plastic flag retaining rings, plastic screws and eagle to a generous coating of Adam’s Quick Sealant.
Please note the flag is illuminated by a solar powered light.
This past weekend, my SO and I decided on a last minute trip up to Las Vegas. Heading out, I collected a far bit of dust on I-15, but Sunday was another deal entirely. Because of the bad traffic on I-15 South through the Cajon Pass, I took a few alternative routes through the desert (in Nevada: I-215 > I-515 > US-95 > Nipton Road, then in California: Nipton Road > I-15 > Minneola Road > National Trails Highway > I-40 > CA-247 > CA-18 > CA-330 > CA-210). Needless to say, I collected a ton of dirt, other grime and brake dust, so since I was working from home this week, I took the liberty of getting all of the dirt off. I probably should I used the Iron Remover, but I noticed that I was out, so I just placed an order for that and a few extra things.
It was much fun though driving through the desert on very empty side roads, as I was able to fully enjoy the turbo inline 6.
Welcome Mike! Lots of good information from Juan ^^^^. As for you fears of damaging your paint with a polisher, the dual action, random orbital polishers Adam's sells will not damage your paint unless you drop the machine on the car!
Welcome Mike! Lots of good information from Juan ^^^^. As for you fears of damaging your paint with a polisher, the dual action, random orbital polishers Adam's sells will not damage your paint unless you drop the machine on the car!
So it is was a purple dye job?!
I should explain...one of my Managers at a previous workplace told us that if the CEO's Secretary came and told us to do something that we should consider it the same as the CEO asking, as she would not just come asking for herself. Of course he was having this conversation as someone in the department had told her he was to busy to do a copy job for her (yes he was some kind of special). So our Manager told us all that "If she (the secretary) asked you to dye your "sh*t" purple, you go out and buy purple dye and dye it!" Thereafter, whenever an urgent job/task came up we called it a "purple dye job". Your shirt made me think of that! Thanks for the post and the funny memory.
I’m on a family road trip and staying at a cabin in Missouri. After driving 1,400 miles over two days I finally got here and had to wash my ride. The bugs on the front end and side mirrors were insane, of course.
Prior to leaving home I washed with Adams regular car wash and topped off with ceramic boost while drying. After getting here 3 days ago, I washed in the evening using Adams new Ceramic Wash. Let me tell you, having the vehicle not only ceramic coated 19 months ago but topped off fresh with Ceramic Boost before the trip really really helped the bugs come off rather easily. I also pre made a small spray bottle with diluted car wash in it before leaving home to pre spray the bugs before washing to help loosen them up and did a pre soak before washing with the ceramic car wash.
Anyways, I did that regularwash 3 days ago so this morning I did a Ceramic Waterless Wash as we haven’t had rain and the truck just needed a touch up. I absolutely love the results Adams products provides, especially the new ceramic infused products. Here are two pics after the ceramic waterless wash today:
Needing some supplies from Adams I was excited to see they had a trailer at Barrett Jackson this past weekend. Not only was the staff friendly & knowledgeble but the deals were great as well. I just wish you were in New England more ofter as I love all your stuff. Keep up the great work
Have a good friend who is currently living in El Paso, TX. He recently purchased a Black Escalade. I cannot fly down to help coach him on polishing and then Ceramic Coating his vehicle (am out currently due to a knee injury & see the Orthopedic Surgeon in ten days to determine If Surgery/Type - if so am out for two months at least, otherwise would accept his offer). Anywho, he is not confident in his ability to complete the tasks.
Therefore, am helping him out by looking to see who might be recommended (or is on the forum) that is in his area.
The issue I have is my lease explicitly states "no washing of vehicles". The gray area is detailing/waterless wash since it doesn't use water/have water on the ground. That said, I could probably get away with rinseless wash so much as I do it on the weekends.