The Guz

I have also found that car shampoo takes care of the coated wheels the vast majority of the time.  I tend to use Eco Wheel Cleaner more than regular wheel cleaner, it doesn't smell nearly as bad.  I also use the Wheel & Tire Cleaner and have not found any adverse effects on the coated wheels.

I agree with Michael's assessment, that Wheel Cleaner is not required as often with coated wheels.  (I rely on a spray bottle of dilluted Car Shampoo most of the time.)  That said, I've had no problems using it AS DIRECTED on multiple sets of ceramic coated wheels.  The answer to your question is, therefore, you CAN use it as needed. 

You will find that you won't need to use a wheel cleaner that often.  I ceramic coat my wheels and 95% of the time I use just soap and water.  I chemically decon less that a handful of times.  

You will get the best results applying it to the painted surface.  

I would take any of his so called torture tests with a grain of salt.  It is such a narrow window in a products true performance.  Mother Nature is the true test.  Also he has a habit of not reading or researching the products.  Remember he is getting a paycheck from youtube just for the views he gets along with the free products he gets.   

Who is saying this?  The youtubers with their ridiculous so called torture test.  Take them with a grain of salt.  Mother nature is the true test.  

I would take any of his so called torture tests with a grain of salt.  It is such a narrow window in a products true performance.  Mother Nature is the true test.  Also he has a habit of not reading or researching the products.  Remember he is getting a paycheck from youtube just for the views he gets along with the free products he gets.   

Who is saying this?  The youtubers with their ridiculous so called torture test.  Take them with a grain of salt.  Mother nature is the true test.  

Who is saying this?  The youtubers with their ridiculous so called torture test.  Take them with a grain of salt.  Mother nature is the true test.  

Who is saying this?  The youtubers with their ridiculous so called torture test.  Take them with a grain of salt.  Mother nature is the true test.  

Bump to remind everyone to post a comment in this thread by midnight tomorrow night to be entered for a chance to win this Graphene Complete Kit:

First off this is my uncles 2008 FJ Cruiser TRD Trail Teams Edition. It currently has a 150K miles on it. I polished and coated it 3 years ago.
 
Recently he has been asking me if I had time to polish it again.  A few reasons due to it being broken into a couple years ago so the front driver door and the rear door were repainted as the locks were damaged.  The trim was looking sad and needed restoration.  Toyota used single stage paint for certain white paints for certain vehicles.  The paint had oxidized. 
 
Keep in mind this was a paint enhancement.  I was not going for a full correction to remove all the defects.  The paint is soft enough and responded well to a one step polish.
 
It arrived with lifeless paint and trim.  I had removed the roof rack to address that separately and to give me full access to the roof.
 

 
No gloss under all that oxidation 
 

 
Headlight and trim looking worse for wear. 
 

 
First up was a chemical decon and this was a bleeder.  
 

 
I addressed the headlights first.  A quick restoration and protected with ceramic coating. He is planning to purchase new headlights so this will be a temporary fix. 
 

 
After 
 

 
Engine bay received a quick clean up and dressed.
 

 
After
 

 
The paint was next once the trim was complete.  First up assessing the paint. 
 

 
The test spot.  Good cut and nice finish on certain parts of the paint.   Some of the finicky areas required another process and polish.
 

 
Taking a step back and there is gloss under all that oxidation.
 

 

 
The side panels were covered in oxidation.  Rubbing my hand across certain parts of paint resulted in my hand being covered with oxidized white paint. 
 

 
This panel among others was soft and finicky.  Opposite panel but one gets the idea of the final finish.
 

 
The paint was panel wiped and the protection of choice was the Adams UV Ceramic Paint Coating.  It was topped with their Ceramic Boost the following day before he picked it up.
 

 

 

 
Various videos can be seen on my channel.  I have created a playlist for certain aspects of this project.
 
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0d6fl9SE0Ztv9UKZHbCTf-PBux5mw7hF

Thanks Dan for the giveaway.  Happy Holidays to you and the rest of the Adams crew.

Hi JB, and welcome to the forum! I'll try to address all of your questions the best I can.

1. This can occur with our Graphene Ceramic Coating and UV Ceramic Paint Coating on darker colored vehicles from my experience; however I did have some of them on a red metallic Chevy SS I did a while back too (UV Paint Coating, not Graphene Ceramic Coating). The UV LED Light will make this much more visible shortly after application, but the lines usually show up if the coating was not wiped away thoroughly enough - usually they will show up in an overcast or cloudy sky and it will look perfect in the sunlight. Usually a few drops of white Polish or Brilliant Glaze will remove the shadows without too much struggle if you catch them within the first 12 hours or so after application. After 12 hours they might require more effort and/or machine polishing to correct.

2. Not necessarily. If the rainbow effect was dissipating after 60-90 seconds and the coating felt slightly tacky or had a small amount of tension when wiping with the towel, that is sufficient time to let it dry. Sometimes it takes 2-3 minutes in my garage, sometimes 60-90 seconds - it depends on temperature and humidity levels.
 
3. That is just about perfect with the overlapping to ensure even coverage. I do wipe the applicator in a nice slow movement with a slight bit of pressure since some of the coating absorbs into the applicator.
 
4. The lines to me seem more prevalent when I seem to apply the coating a little too thin in areas, so yes I do add a few more drops of coating to the applicator; however, the process that I do that seems to work best for me is as follows:
I will put several drops of coating onto the applicator, then do an outline around the perimeter of a panel, without lifting the applicator from the surface. Oxygen makes the coating flash, so each time you lift and place the applicator down onto the surface, it will be heavier there (and this is where I will usually find high spots later).  Once I have the outline done, I will do horizontal back and forth across the panel, again without lifting the applicator from the surface. The perimeter edge of the coating serves as a "pool" to pick up extra coating into the applicator to make the horizontal lines nice and even, overlapping each line as you said. Once the horizontal passes are done, then I will add more drops of coating into the applicator and then do vertical passes on the panel in the same manner, without lifting the applicator from the surface as I move it up and down. If you split a door or hood into two sections to reach, I will do one section and then immediately do the other section before wiping off the first section. If I don't do this, I can then see a visible vertical overlap line where two sections met, once I wipe away both sections. So this can then show up as a faint high-spot line that I will have to take care of later. 5. To prevent it from happening again, I feel also comes into how the coating is wiped away. Once the rainbow begins to fade, I take a clean Suede Towel folded into fourths, and I lightly wipe/smear the coating all in same direction - either left/right or up/down. This towel will remove about 50% of the coating with this light wipe. Then I'll let the coating tack up again for another 30 seconds or so, and then take my Single Soft/Borderless Gray/Edgeless Utility Towel to remove the remainder of the coating. I wipe multiple passes and multiple directions with this second towel, to make sure all residue is removed and I have far less high-spots afterward using that process.

Also keep in mind that the UV LED Light shows EVERYTHING, and you don't want to chase having absolutely perfect coverage with the UV glow tracer. The UV glow will dissipate and look more even after a few hours. What I usually do is apply the coating, remove it, and then use the UV light afterward to do a spot inspection to see if I missed anywhere, otherwise you can spend double the amount of time trying to use the light while applying the coating.

Sorry for the lengthy post, but hopefully that helps out! Please let us know if you have any other questions

Wash them and reuse them.  There is not enough to harden within the towel.  They will more than likely become hydrophobic over time.  

The foundation of the graphene coating is the ceramic coating.  Then refined graphene oxide is added to the coating.  Think of it as another form of ceramic with the infusion of RGO.  
 
 
 

Hey norton,thanks for the info.It worked very well.I cleaned with waterless wash-hand polished-vrt-matte detailer-adams graphing spray coating.Its no perfect but looks way better than it did and I like it.tanks everyone for the help and replies.awesome forum.heres some pics.dont mind the big pine tree in background

The foundation of the graphene coating is the ceramic coating.  Then refined graphene oxide is added to the coating.  Think of it as another form of ceramic with the infusion of RGO.  
 
 
 

The foundation of the graphene coating is the ceramic coating.  Then refined graphene oxide is added to the coating.  Think of it as another form of ceramic with the infusion of RGO.  
 
 
 

Those two car soaps are loaded with gloss enhancers that can clog up any coating.  Gold Class can make it seem like the coating has failed.  The other issue is that the coating is probably so clogged from all of the fall out that it may need a chemical decon to revive it.  The other potential thing are the oils from M205 not being completely removed.  Did you do a panel wipe after the polishing step?

Adams blue shampoo.  Can’t mention any other brands in order to abide by the rules.  

Those two car soaps are loaded with gloss enhancers that can clog up any coating.  Gold Class can make it seem like the coating has failed.  The other issue is that the coating is probably so clogged from all of the fall out that it may need a chemical decon to revive it.  The other potential thing are the oils from M205 not being completely removed.  Did you do a panel wipe after the polishing step?

To add to what Chris said, you could certainly put a layer of Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating on top of your existing coating to sort of refresh and re-up the coating; however, you will want to do a very thorough wash and Surface Prep at a minimum before applying the Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating. It's also important to note that it will not last as long on the surface since it is trying to bond to an already cured layer of ceramic coating, rather than bare clear coat. You could then maintain with Graphene Detail Spray. 

To reduce some of the confusion, here are some general combinations for maintenance-type products. Keep in mind that these are not concrete, and you can try out different maintenance products to see which you like best!
Graphene Ceramic Coating and Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating will be best maintained with Graphene Detail Spray, since they're all in the graphene oxide family of products, but you can use SiO2 maintenance products like CS3 and Ceramic Boost as well with no issue. UV Ceramic Paint Coating, UV Ceramic Wheel Coating, UV Ceramic Spray Coating, Ceramic Coating Wax, and Ceramic Spray Coating will be best maintained with SiO2-based products since they're all in the SiO2 family of products. These would include CS3, Ceramic Boost, Ceramic Waterless, Ceramic Liquid Wax, Rinse + Coat, etc. Using Graphene Detail Spray would be fine as well. Paint Sealant, a synthetic sealant would be best paired with H2O Guard & Gloss, another product in the sealant family, but you could use Graphene Detail Spray and SiO2-based products too. Waxes like Americana Paste Wax, Buttery Wax, and Patriot Wax would pair best with Spray Wax or Detail Spray.  Then there are a few wildcards like Detail Spray, Slick & Slide, and Waterless Wash. Detail Spray and Slick & Slide have small amounts of polymer protection and can be paired with any of the above with nice results. For Detail Spray, keep in mind that while it will not hurt coatings, it's not necessarily the best product to use on them, and may slightly alter some of the hydrophobic behavior of coatings. Waterless Wash works excellent on any of the above as well. 

To be on the safe side, wipe trim when using all of our coatings.

I am missing something here.  So your plan is to wash your car first followed by a waterless wash?  A waterless wash is used as an alternative wash method.  Sounds like you are looking for a drying aid of some sort.  
 
What are you looking to achieve?