falcaineer

This helps.  Thanks for researching and reporting!

I'm not at liberty to release the percentages/amounts, but from highest to lowest, the order is Graphene Boost, GCS3, and finally GDS. Hope that helps!

I'll ask our chemist, more to follow 

I'll ask our chemist, more to follow 

Go with Graphene Ceramic, it's better, lasts longer, and is simply a great coating.

No, ceramic coatings need a bare naked surface to properly bond. With coatings 80%+ of the job is in the prep to get the best results.

The spray coating will have to be removed so the true coating can bond to the bare painted surface. 

Hi Chris,
CS3 quickly became one of my regular items to use and always goes in my travel bag with as versatile as it is.   While I prefer the smell of the regular waterless wash, it is no match for capabilities of CS3.  
 
One of these days we need to meet up at my daughters restaurant for lunch, it is near the southern gate of Fort Jackson, so it is a straight run across 378 from Sumter, less than 45 minutes from the main gate at Shaw.   It takes me about 30 minutes to get to her place and lunch would be on me.

Coating them would be the better of the two, just he sure and catch high spots quickly since polishing it will not be an option.

Out in the sun
 

This good?

Polishing stage done

Update:  Clay bar removed 70%.  Light polish took care of the rest.  

Thanks. Polishing did the trick, and I made sure to keep the drill moving rather than sit on any one spot.

It could be a high spot.  Some of those pictures look like it is the beginning signs of clear coat failure.  The second photo sure looks like it.  

^^^This, this, and this^^^
 
After learning this trick with the interior detailer, there’s no going back.  It also dries dry, so dust and such doesn’t stick to it like it would with a product that might otherwise be greasy or leave a film.  

The SK Pro Micro rotary attachment kit can go a long way to helping polish those areas. Do you have one yet? If not, tell Mary I highly recommend it!! 😁
 
https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-sk-pro-micro-rotary-attachment-accessories
 

Hi Saular,   
I would recommend trying a different pad.  Something smaller than a grain of sand can leave a mark like you are showing in the picture and finding it can be a real challenge.  Once the pad has been thoroughly wash and left dry it is generally easier to find something embedded vs when it is still wet or damp.   Sometimes you won't find anything at all because it comes out with a thorough wash or just falls off when dry.

Yes, absolutely 

Could just be residue, maybe marring. Hard to tell but if polishing is working, keep it up! Just be careful using the drill attachment as that can generate heat quickly risking damage.

Of those you listed, here's the order:
 
Clay Bar
One Step Polish
Surface Prep
Coating
Graphene Detail Spray (after 6 hours minimum following coating, and then to maintain)
 
For more on the process, read this: 
 

I'll let the man himself explain...
 
 
 

So I love the 15mm. But for all around, get everywhere detailing, it's hard to beat the 12mm. It will take you longer, but it simply gets into places and areas the larger ones can't.
 
I can tell you Adam's personal favorite is the 12mm SK Pro, he also takes his time detailing over weeks to months on the same car. Hell correct on panel, then come back and do another in a week or two, and so on.
 
If you have and don't mind taking the time, get the 12mm.

I finally have the workbench fully installed, including the metal pegboard, TV and various other accessories. 
 
The mild winter helped me keep progressing with staying warm enough in the garage to do the straining the coating on the cabinets and top only needing 2 or 3 days between coats.  The ceilings fans also helped by circulating the air and pushing the warmer air down from the ceiling.  They have timers built in so I could turn them on to run for multiple hours, so the temp pretty much always stayed above 50, even on the coldest nights.
 
 Now it is matter of getting the pegboard arranged the way I want it and then slowly move the tools out of Mary's garage.   I'm still working on the little things and some are getting closer to being ready to be worked on.  I'll put in a cable management system for the wires around the workbench, getting the fire extinguishers mounted and getting many more old license plates so I can finish the upper part of the side wall.   I have all the wood for the sound enclosure for the air compressor, I just need to get the sound tiles to build that.
 
I'm ready for detailing season to get started and ten the rest of the Adam's items will move in, excluding the gallons which I'll leave the climate controlled room in Mary's garage. 

Yes, safe for those surfaces and same process as on a car. Just understand if you polish that gel coats generally need more effort compared to your typical clear coat, it's usually a harder surface. For the seat, consider the Leather and Vinyl Coating instead. Don't expect the same longevity for either one on the jet ski, though.