RayS

The SK Pro Micro rotary attachment kit can go a long way to helping polish those areas. Do you have one yet? If not, tell Mary I highly recommend it!! 😁
 
https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-sk-pro-micro-rotary-attachment-accessories
 

In & Out spray is still my go to for engine bay detailing.

Hi Saular,   
I would recommend trying a different pad.  Something smaller than a grain of sand can leave a mark like you are showing in the picture and finding it can be a real challenge.  Once the pad has been thoroughly wash and left dry it is generally easier to find something embedded vs when it is still wet or damp.   Sometimes you won't find anything at all because it comes out with a thorough wash or just falls off when dry.

Could just be residue, maybe marring. Hard to tell but if polishing is working, keep it up! Just be careful using the drill attachment as that can generate heat quickly risking damage.

With the 6.5 for the SUV's, I'd have to recommend the 12mm to get to all the spots that the 6.5 can't.

It comes down to what type of vehicle are you normally using it on.

Large flat panels, mid to full size pickups as an example, the 15mm
Small vehicles with lots of odd shaped panels, the 12mm

I finally have the workbench fully installed, including the metal pegboard, TV and various other accessories. 
 
The mild winter helped me keep progressing with staying warm enough in the garage to do the straining the coating on the cabinets and top only needing 2 or 3 days between coats.  The ceilings fans also helped by circulating the air and pushing the warmer air down from the ceiling.  They have timers built in so I could turn them on to run for multiple hours, so the temp pretty much always stayed above 50, even on the coldest nights.
 
 Now it is matter of getting the pegboard arranged the way I want it and then slowly move the tools out of Mary's garage.   I'm still working on the little things and some are getting closer to being ready to be worked on.  I'll put in a cable management system for the wires around the workbench, getting the fire extinguishers mounted and getting many more old license plates so I can finish the upper part of the side wall.   I have all the wood for the sound enclosure for the air compressor, I just need to get the sound tiles to build that.
 
I'm ready for detailing season to get started and ten the rest of the Adam's items will move in, excluding the gallons which I'll leave the climate controlled room in Mary's garage. 

I'm with @The Guzon the Strip Wash and then look for any areas that need to be polished or additional attention and focus on them.  Then you compare the correct spots with the rest of the vehicle to determine if a once-over should be done on the entire vehicle.  As for the PPF, I always apply the Adam's products to it and they work great.

Coast Guard  

RayS,
Thanks for the response and recommendations! My wife and I picked up the Tahoe this morning and I was shocked. It was washed/dried very well. Even had a layer of spray wax on it! No scratches that I could find and I looked it over carefully in good light.  All shipping stickers removed perfectly too. Even the tire shine was applied properly, no runs/sling. It was our 1st time working with this dealership too. We found out today the owner has a classic car collection in a separate building and im guessing they take the PDI process seriously?  
 
Regardless, sounds like I should strip off the spray wax and use an Adam's ceramic product. 

This is a classic Can vs. Should. Adding a ceramic coating over anything other than a bare naked surface, including another layer of ceramic coating, will reduce the longevity and effectiveness. Recommend you use something else to polish the surface if you want to use any of the coatings.

Enjoy Fat Tuesday and Mardi Gras tomorrow gang!

I finally have the workbench fully installed, including the metal pegboard, TV and various other accessories. 
 
The mild winter helped me keep progressing with staying warm enough in the garage to do the straining the coating on the cabinets and top only needing 2 or 3 days between coats.  The ceilings fans also helped by circulating the air and pushing the warmer air down from the ceiling.  They have timers built in so I could turn them on to run for multiple hours, so the temp pretty much always stayed above 50, even on the coldest nights.
 
 Now it is matter of getting the pegboard arranged the way I want it and then slowly move the tools out of Mary's garage.   I'm still working on the little things and some are getting closer to being ready to be worked on.  I'll put in a cable management system for the wires around the workbench, getting the fire extinguishers mounted and getting many more old license plates so I can finish the upper part of the side wall.   I have all the wood for the sound enclosure for the air compressor, I just need to get the sound tiles to build that.
 
I'm ready for detailing season to get started and ten the rest of the Adam's items will move in, excluding the gallons which I'll leave the climate controlled room in Mary's garage. 

I finally have the workbench fully installed, including the metal pegboard, TV and various other accessories. 
 
The mild winter helped me keep progressing with staying warm enough in the garage to do the straining the coating on the cabinets and top only needing 2 or 3 days between coats.  The ceilings fans also helped by circulating the air and pushing the warmer air down from the ceiling.  They have timers built in so I could turn them on to run for multiple hours, so the temp pretty much always stayed above 50, even on the coldest nights.
 
 Now it is matter of getting the pegboard arranged the way I want it and then slowly move the tools out of Mary's garage.   I'm still working on the little things and some are getting closer to being ready to be worked on.  I'll put in a cable management system for the wires around the workbench, getting the fire extinguishers mounted and getting many more old license plates so I can finish the upper part of the side wall.   I have all the wood for the sound enclosure for the air compressor, I just need to get the sound tiles to build that.
 
I'm ready for detailing season to get started and ten the rest of the Adam's items will move in, excluding the gallons which I'll leave the climate controlled room in Mary's garage. 

Today was 55*F and sunny.  As promised after church (and after my brother and mom left) I washed my wife’s Beast, her 2016 Durango R/T. It was Uber filthy and covered with road salt, grit, grime and who knows what else. First things first, all four wheels were cleaned with Adam’s Wheel and Tire Cleaner, rinsed then treated to Adam’s Rinse & Coat. I used a strip wash from the guy in Tacoma WA in the foam gun to remove the gunk on the paint. Following a good rinse I washed it with many MF wash mitts in one bucket using Adam’s Car Shampoo. Now before I rinsed it I was thinking that the Advanced Graphene Spray Coating had utterly failed.  NOPE!   As soon as the soap was rinsed off, the water first sheeted then beaded like crazy. I did a sheeting rinse and dried the Beast using Adam’s Graphene Detail Spray as a drying aid. Did I tell you how much I’m starting to dig that stuff? Anyway, I finished up with Adam’s Tire Shine on the Michelins then started taking pics. She’s looking great for 140,000+ miles!

It was a sunny and balmy 47* F today so I took advantage of the great mid February midwestern weather and cleaned the SS. I used Adam’s Rinseless Wash in my jumbo IK Sprayer with HOT water as a presoak. I used 8 plush MF towels in a 2 gallon bucket to clean the paint and door jambs. The remaining wash medium was used with old MF towels to clean the wheels. I used Adam’s Graphene Detail Spray as a drying aid, one spritz per panel except for hood and roof which got two. My opinion on it has changed 180*.
I’m convinced I had a bad bottle of it last year as I never had good results with it no matter how I used it or how much I used.

Tomorrow after church my wife’s Beast will get a regular wash with foam gun, etc.  It is mega filthy.

Hard to believe that it has been over 6 months since anyone posted on this thread.  While the majority of my time is spent shining vehicles, this is a different twist since I finished the workbench top.
 
Disclaimer:  The information is not documented or endorsed by Adam's and following the items is strictly at your own risk.  Never use a Pad on alternative objects that you intend to use again on a vehicle.  The ones I previously used for headlights make great donors since they are usually abused, yet have plenty of life left in them for alternate uses.

To get the shine I ended up with 10 coats of Spar Urethane, with #0000 steel wood and/or 600 grit sandpaper and a final sanding with 1000 grit. Anyone unfamiliar with Spar Urethane it has good resistance to UV light, can handle big temperature differences and generally does not crack or yellow.  The top itself is Birch Butcher Block, 26 inches wide with two 8 foot sections.  This was a slow process with a minimum of two days between coats, all actions were by hand.

The polishing was accomplishing with a retired Adams' Headlight Kit using the Blue Pad with Compound, followed by a White pad and One-Stop-Polish and a final once-over with Polish.   The last step was to go over it with Adam's Glass Cleaner and an old microfiber to remove all the residue.
 
One of the things when doing wood and Spar Urethane is to limit the number of passes and don't dwell on any single spot - i.e. keep moving.  I still worked 2 foot sections, actually 2 foot by 26 inches, kept it cool in the garage and worked quickly.
 
I do believe the end result qualifies as shiny and an alternative use for Adam's products.

Ray
That looks amazing!! Jealousy is setting in over here

Hard to believe that it has been over 6 months since anyone posted on this thread.  While the majority of my time is spent shining vehicles, this is a different twist since I finished the workbench top.
 
Disclaimer:  The information is not documented or endorsed by Adam's and following the items is strictly at your own risk.  Never use a Pad on alternative objects that you intend to use again on a vehicle.  The ones I previously used for headlights make great donors since they are usually abused, yet have plenty of life left in them for alternate uses.

To get the shine I ended up with 10 coats of Spar Urethane, with #0000 steel wood and/or 600 grit sandpaper and a final sanding with 1000 grit. Anyone unfamiliar with Spar Urethane it has good resistance to UV light, can handle big temperature differences and generally does not crack or yellow.  The top itself is Birch Butcher Block, 26 inches wide with two 8 foot sections.  This was a slow process with a minimum of two days between coats, all actions were by hand.

The polishing was accomplishing with a retired Adams' Headlight Kit using the Blue Pad with Compound, followed by a White pad and One-Stop-Polish and a final once-over with Polish.   The last step was to go over it with Adam's Glass Cleaner and an old microfiber to remove all the residue.
 
One of the things when doing wood and Spar Urethane is to limit the number of passes and don't dwell on any single spot - i.e. keep moving.  I still worked 2 foot sections, actually 2 foot by 26 inches, kept it cool in the garage and worked quickly.
 
I do believe the end result qualifies as shiny and an alternative use for Adam's products.

Hard to believe that it has been over 6 months since anyone posted on this thread.  While the majority of my time is spent shining vehicles, this is a different twist since I finished the workbench top.
 
Disclaimer:  The information is not documented or endorsed by Adam's and following the items is strictly at your own risk.  Never use a Pad on alternative objects that you intend to use again on a vehicle.  The ones I previously used for headlights make great donors since they are usually abused, yet have plenty of life left in them for alternate uses.

To get the shine I ended up with 10 coats of Spar Urethane, with #0000 steel wood and/or 600 grit sandpaper and a final sanding with 1000 grit. Anyone unfamiliar with Spar Urethane it has good resistance to UV light, can handle big temperature differences and generally does not crack or yellow.  The top itself is Birch Butcher Block, 26 inches wide with two 8 foot sections.  This was a slow process with a minimum of two days between coats, all actions were by hand.

The polishing was accomplishing with a retired Adams' Headlight Kit using the Blue Pad with Compound, followed by a White pad and One-Stop-Polish and a final once-over with Polish.   The last step was to go over it with Adam's Glass Cleaner and an old microfiber to remove all the residue.
 
One of the things when doing wood and Spar Urethane is to limit the number of passes and don't dwell on any single spot - i.e. keep moving.  I still worked 2 foot sections, actually 2 foot by 26 inches, kept it cool in the garage and worked quickly.
 
I do believe the end result qualifies as shiny and an alternative use for Adam's products.

No, you do not need to discard them, just don't use them on the body of a vehicle.  Use them for engine bay cleaning, the insides of wheels, exhaust pipes or anyplace that is not polished like the body is.

To mark mine for non-body usage, I cut the corners off the towels along with storing them separately to ensure no cross contamination.  Furthermore, since they are non-body towels, I hand wash them since they can get nasty with the areas I use them on.

No, you do not need to discard them, just don't use them on the body of a vehicle.  Use them for engine bay cleaning, the insides of wheels, exhaust pipes or anyplace that is not polished like the body is.

To mark mine for non-body usage, I cut the corners off the towels along with storing them separately to ensure no cross contamination.  Furthermore, since they are non-body towels, I hand wash them since they can get nasty with the areas I use them on.

No, you do not need to discard them, just don't use them on the body of a vehicle.  Use them for engine bay cleaning, the insides of wheels, exhaust pipes or anyplace that is not polished like the body is.

To mark mine for non-body usage, I cut the corners off the towels along with storing them separately to ensure no cross contamination.  Furthermore, since they are non-body towels, I hand wash them since they can get nasty with the areas I use them on.

Welcome to the Forum.

Hi Jack,
I generally expect the extra pop to last several days when the vehicle is kept in the garage and 2 or 3 days max when out in the sun.  If we are doing something on Saturday I will either apply BG on Friday evening or Saturday morning to ensure it really pops.   I have found that when using Americana, the garage queen will need rewaxing every 3 to 4 weeks if I do BG every weekend.   I don't use Patriots enough to know if that would be case there also.