MikeSoFlo

It used to be the standard. Before they went to 1/2 the polish at 2/3 the price. 
 
The thought process was that the average person didn’t need a 16 ounce bottle. Unfortunately in the meantime they’ve forgotten about people who consume product in quantity. 
 
The pro-line was supposed to solve the problem, but that was nearly a year ago and nobody knows any details on the program.
 
I guess it’s good for them since the price per ounce increased, but it ultimately lead to us (and I’m sure others) exploring other options from the competition. 

I saw this same listing on eBay and was wondering about it too! 

I would use the ECO version but I don't see why not. Maybe like an an ounce or 2 in a full tank and run a few hot water cycles through it. Just have to make sure you flush it really good with a clean tank after. I may do that next. 

I’ve used APC for cleaning my household appliances. And glass cleaner for the bathroom mirrors. Helpful around the house and the cars! 

Since my business is run out of my home, and with the recent family additions we outgrew our garage which doubled as a family garage and workspace. 
 
The way our land is laid out, we can’t have a poured foundation due to the zoning setbacks. So we had to go with a premanufactured garage. 
 
We ended up settling on a 14’ x 32’ garage style “shed.” We have used the back half for storage for equipment and I’ve started making the front half a film and coating studio. 
 
The front and back half will be separated by a canvas curtain enabling me to easily get in and out of for the storage component.  Up front, I’ve installed eighteen 4,800 lumen LED shop lights on the wall and ceiling. That’s 86,400 lumens of light for coating and film to catch everything. 
 
We started hanging banners and have power partially run. The rest will be done soon. 
 
Eventually I’d like to RaceDeck the flooring. But all in good time. And I’ll insulate it before winter. 
 
In the meantime here’s some progress photos. 
 
 
 
 

They are 2 different products. One is a paste wax (Adam's Ceramic Paste Wax) and the other is an actual ceramic coating (Gyeon Quartz). A better comparison would be to Adam's Ceramic Paint Coating. A legit ceramic coating will out last a paste wax all the time. You'll get more product from the Ceramic Paste Wax + Boost and it will be cheaper but you'll need to reapply it more often then if you do a legit ceramic coating. 

It's been discussed elsewhere on here, but bottom line, I would not recommend diluting the GC. The GS should last a full tank of washer fluid, or ~200 mi of rain driving. I recommend you stick with your normal regimen of sealant and boost, if available.
 
Adam's has alluded to a washer fluid/concentrate being released, but nothing announced to date.

My wife comes homes and is like ... "There's something on the car, can you get it off."

My wife comes homes and is like ... "There's something on the car, can you get it off."

After a few months of nagging about my purchases my wife asked me last night what product and towel she should use to get bird bombs off the car. I was so happy I almost shed a tear. 

If you can't get it soon and still want to proceed, other options are to add a few ounces of Eco APC to your normal wash bucket and CS, or a wipe down with Coating Prep, or even add a few ounces of liquid blue Dawn to your wash bucket. 
 
Oh, and don't forget clay/clay mitt, and possibly Iron Remover.

It has chemicals that dissolve iron. It’s pretty harsh stuff. It’s also safe for clear coat finishes with the caveat that you really don’t want it to dry on the vehicle. So be aware of that and use it. We use it on every detail. 

The man himself... And I!

A combination of posts here and having just attended accreditation training for another coating have once again gotten my writing mind working. It’s also an effort to go back to some detailing related discussion as opposed to this weeks special edition detail spray. 
 
It seems there are a million questions about ceramic coatings. What’s worse is that there are two million opinions on ceramic coatings, what they can and can’t do and when they should and shouldn’t be applied. So let’s get into it a bit...
 
What can a ceramic coating do?  Ceramic coatings are simply a different last step product that can change the maintenance regiment for your vehicle. They are not maintenance free by any means. A ceramic coating can lock in a deep gloss look that’s easily maintained and restored while offering some better scratch resistance (which we will get into shortly). 
 
What can’t a ceramic coating do?  A ceramic coating won’t stop rock chips. It’s not impossible to scratch (meaning proper care and technique when washing is still required). Also, a ceramic coating can’t last forever despite anyone’s claims that they will do so. Setting your hood on fire because it’s ceramic coated isn’t a good idea either.
 
So why would you want to ceramic coat your car?  Well, it’s typically lower maintenance than having to reapply the finish every so often and provides an amazingly slick surface that’s a bit easier to clean or keep clean. 
 
Maintenance?  Yup. The biggest complaint from “failed” coatings isn’t that they’ve failed, it’s that they haven’t been decontaminated properly to allow them to function normally. They still require periodic maintenance by claying and iron decontamination. To go the extra mile, some coatings require reapplication of a top layer. This is sometimes a spray or an actual top coating layer. This is widely variable based on the coating used. 
 
Can I do this myself?  It is in the wheelhouse of most serious weekend warrior detailers. It can seem overwhelming, but it shouldn’t be. Understand that the prep phase is literally everything. Poor prep will result in a poor coating. Great prep will help to get that great result. 
 
How do I do it?  Well, the prep is similar to most other details. Decontaminate the vehicle with wash, clay and iron remover. Polish the paint until you’re satisfied with the results (once you apply the coating, what’s there is there).  Give it a good wipedown to prep for coating. And install. We do wheels, trim and then paint last typically. You can change it in any order you like. In fact, we actually spray wheels when we have them pulled for an easier application. This comes at the expense of using more product. 
 
Rules of thumb?  Textured plastic gets trim coating. Painted plastic get paint coating. Textured plastic doesn’t usually require leveling, where painted trim does. Work in small bites. Know you’ll go through a bunch of towels and a bunch of applicators. It’s a slow process, especially when you’re not familiar. 
 
What kind of tricks are there?  Start working small. Make a “puddle line” down the middle of your working area. Then spread the coating across it (think like an H). The puddle line across spreads the heaviest product. When crossing it you’re spreading it and thinning it for a very even coverage.  
 
We use three towels when we buff off a coating. We use a low pile suede for the initial buff, then we go wider with a microfiber to pick up the push and then we use a third microfiber to get any remaining spots.
 
If it’s hot and/or humid, rapidly flashing coatings can be frustrating. We can stretch the open time of the coating by storing the bottle in a cup with ice in it prior to and during application.  This will give you some more time to let the coating flash and then buff off. I won’t get into flash times since they’re widely variable based upon environment and what coating you’re using. Always keep the cap on when you’re not applying to the applicator. And a little really does go a long way. 
 
If you get some coating where it shouldn’t be, wipe it immediately before it cures. 
 
If you have high spots, you can try brilliant glaze before it’s cured. You can also try a little polish on a rag and your finger. Or worst case you’re polishing it out and reapplying to that section. Adams coatings usually come off with glaze/polish. We do work with a coating that has to be wet sanded down once it fully cures. High spots are a nightmare. 
 
Which brings us to lighting. And a bunch of different types. Light from different angles and sources will reveal everything. Have multiple eyes look at it and see what they see. Things blend together after a while. 
 
Take your time. Plan appropriately for the time to prep, install and cure. Don’t rush it or you’ll pay the price. 
 
And lastly, what coating is for me?  That’s a very open ended question based on what you expect out of your coating for performance and durability. Only have the car a couple of years?  Use a lower end coating. Keeping it for a while and daily driving it?  Maybe a higher end coating is for you for longevity. Not all coatings are available to everyone. We have two coatings that are accredited or authorized installers only. We can’t even sell you a bottle if you wanted one. That’s because they’re a bit harder to work with and less forgiving. The flip side is the results from them are amazing. 
 
I think that’s all my brain has kicked out off the top of my head. If you have quesrions, ask. Between myself and others here there’s a thinktank of answers available. Take advantage of it. 

Hey everyone. I’m new to detailing my own vehicles. Always just paid someone but I’m to picky. Looked around online and Adams seems to be where to go. 

...it was just what the doctor ordered, lazing around detailing my car. Cleaned the engine bay, tires, foamed the car with my new working foam sprayer, dried with H2O G&G and finished off with a little Buttery Wax and Detail Spray. Glorious day indeed. Dang that Buttery Wax smells good now I want a banana split! Hope you all have a great weekend!

Yeah they’re the snake oil of the car care business. I’m just surprised some idiot hasn’t tried it at home and burned their car to ground. 

Older picture but here is mine!

I just bought my house 3 months ago, and immediately after I knew I was going to need a cabinet for my detail stuff. I was going to do a normal enclosed cabinet but then saw someone on facebook use an Oakley case, and I just had to have one. So here's mine, post yours up if you want! Slowly buiding up my Arsenal lol. 

Just thought I’d update this thread for everyone. This weekend I’ll finally get a chance to start working on one of our Ascent’s. The interiors are coated but need to be freshened up a bit anyway. 
 
This weekend the work flow for one is...
- Wash
- Iron removal 
- Clay
- Finishing polish
- paint protection film, partial front (hood, fender, mirrors, bumper)
- ceramic coat wheels
- ceramic coat trim 
- ceramic coat the paint. 
 
These won’t be done in Adam’s, but when I do the write up I will substitute in the appropriate Adam’s products for reference and to support the forum. 

2008 Tahoe Black
 
strip wash 
iron remover 
clay
strip wash 
3 step polish ( blue ,orange, white)
coating prep spray
paint sealant
waited 1 hr. before applying Americana
then waited a few hrs. to wipe dust with 2.0 CB
 
Spend 15 to 16 hrs. total 
 
Don't know if times was to much or to short. Loved how it came out. 

I placed a decent size order during the last mystery bucket sale which included the Detail Boy shirts and a few detail boy/girl stickers. One shirt was for me and one was for my son. While the package was inbound, the day of the delivery, FedEx marked the package as damaged, not deliverable. I called Adam's and spoke to one of their sales reps, Chandler. He said typically they wait until the damaged package is returned, see what product(s) are damaged, replaced those, re-box and then ship back out. He saw that I had some of the Detail Boy shirts in there which sparked the conversation of hoping they were ok because he knew inventory was running low on them. I said to him, I'd hate for you all to get the box back and see that the shirts were messed up and then not have inventory to replace it. He said you're right, I'll deal with FedEx and getting the damaged package back but in the meantime I'll make sure a new box is sent out to you ASAP so that you don't miss out on the Detail Boy shirts! 24 hours later I had a new order in my account and a tracking number in my email! Thanks Chandler and Adam's! 

My thought and @pirahnah3 can vouche for it, if I'm initiating the trade for something I want I'll put up a higher value. 
 
In the end it needs to be FAIR for both parties. The value needs to be as close to the same as possible or more if its something you really really want.

Hello,
I have a question to whoever is wanting to trade. I know most of us want to trade for stuff we don't have including me. But I have to be honest some of you want to trade but don't know the value you are trading for. I make trades but expect the trade value of the bottle. If you want to make a profit or scam someone don't do it here. eBay is doing a great job for that. Example if I need a Ceramic Boost and its up for trade. I will trade you for the value of it not 1 item less then that. Come one getting tired of people who are just posting to make it to 50 post to trade that for me is shady. They don't even try to make sense on there post . I have done a few trades here and can say there's a few good people here. I was hesitant to trade at first thought what if I get scammed. Then I said oh well lets see how it goes luckily I have trade with good people. But social media is a big thing because you can report that person and words spreads out. Sorry Guys and Gals just wanted to speak what I have been reading and thinking.  If you felt insulted by this I'm sorry but this get old. I'm in for Adamspolsihes  not to make profit could of done it some many times .

Lately it seems that there’s been a bunch of questions on the forums with regard to what products go with what.  It can be a confusing world of products especially as new “better” releases come about.
 
The first thing to consider is that just because something new comes along, it doesn’t mean the old product is obsolete. Change can come about for a million different reasons. It could be development, supply availability, changes in production...and the list goes on. 
 
New products also don’t mean they fit in your detailing supply cabinet. We all have different needs based on our tastes, what we used and continue to use and where we want our detailing to go. There’s always a temptation to try new products (and we try a bunch), but it doesn’t always mean it’s a good fit. The point I’m trying to make is to not force a product to fit because it’s the “latest and greatest.”
 
The “ceramic” line of products is a great example. The ceramic boost, wax, coatings are great products. They aren’t the ideal application for every user. Much in the same way that a regular wax isn’t ideal for a ceramic user. 
 
You can mix and match products as you go, but it may not be the best match. Think of it like mixing ingredients in the kitchen. Sure, it might go and not be bad. But it also won’t be the “wow” that makes you want to come back to it time and time again. 
 
When evaluating which products you want to use, consider what your goals are and define them. 
 
How long do you want the product to last?
 
How much maintenance do you want to do?
 
How much work do you want to put in for the project in the beginning?
 
Where is the vehicle kept?  How is it driven?  Is it a daily?  Or a garage queen?
 
What tools do you have or are willing to invest in?
 
What’s your budget look like?
 
Once you know some of those answers (and possibly more), you can put together your product list.
 
If you like the process of waxing your car often, ceramic based products may not be up your alley. You can still achieve a great finish without ceramics. Sealant, glaze and wax provides great durability and finish while allowing you to scratch the itch of needing to wax your ride. 
 
If you want more durability, maybe a coating is right for you. You need to be patient in its prep and application. I’ve mentioned before that great prep equals a great finish. The same is also true. If you cut corners, there’s a good chance it will show in the finish. Keep in mind though that coatings are NOT maintenance free, regardless of advertising hype. 
 
A weekend detailer can often produce the same results as a professional detailer. There’s plenty of access to some great products out there. We use many of the same products available to everyone in our work. Sure, there’s some that are “pro only,” but those tend to be more high end coatings then routine products to use. The biggest differences between the pro and the weekend guy/girl are that pros usually have a deeper arsenal of products, an understanding of products along with their nuances and pros often have a larger selection of tools to get the job done efficiently. 
 
The big thing is to evaluate each product, see how it fits in your scope of practice and to understand when and why to use something. More importantly, know when not to use something because it doesn’t fit in your vision. It can be difficult to resist temptation of the latest and greatest sometimes, but like they say “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it.” 
 
When in doubt ask questions, experiment and see what works for you. Just test in small doses so you don’t create a bunch of work for yourself fixing something you have done. 
    - No idea why the font carried over like that when I wrote it and copied it over. Oh well!