ledger64

id bet heat and humidity is your issue as well as too much product.

id bet heat and humidity is your issue as well as too much product.

If you're not in the mood for like a coating, I've heard good things of H2OGG as a way to make wipe down easy

It represents Beverly Hills boutique just another store carrying product!
 
 

claying would in my mind be a last ditch effort.  What else have you tried

If thats what you meant then thats what you should have said.
Your posts could confuse someone that is looking to perform
a chemical decon and assume that because their vehicle is not
white then they won't benefit when they actually can.
 
to clarify my statements:
Diluting the pink Deep wheel cleaner 1:1 is standard practice
Not sure 100% on the new blue wheel cleaner but i would think you
wouldd want to as well. 
 
Less = More

use less product
clean with apc and rinse in the sink

using an iron removing regiment like dwc and water at a 1:1 ratio is a chemical decontaminating process
 
using clay or clay alternative is a mechanical decontaminating process
 
using the chemical process first will aid in the second step of the mechanical process
 
industrial fallout, brake dust, etc is not color specific. 
 
just because you see it on white better doesn't mean its any less common on a darker vehicle.  it just shows better on white

I am going to recommend a non-Adams product (I will PM you the details) as it has oils that will help 'moisturize' the paint some.  This product is used by hand, though some effort is suggested.  This can bring back some of the shine to the original paint.  Then you can continue to polish (Revive, FP, or CP) by hand.  Then some BG (if you want more shine),  or just Americana/Patriot wax to protect.
 
You can never replace the original paint, so you do not want to go very aggressive.
 
I worked on a 'new' old stock 1956 MV Agusta race bike last weekend.  It is all original including the paint and tires.  It was cleaned with Rinseless Wash, and rubbed with the other product.  Then we went over it with Revive to clean the paint more, and it came out great (a full write is coming soon).
 
If you want to know more about working with oxidized singe stage paint Google "mike phillips removing oxidation'.      

I have the Weathertech Cleaner and Conditioner. While pricey, It seems to work well despite that I have only used it once. I believe that Weathertech has an ebay store and that's where I got it from. It believe that it is meant to be a 2 step process, as to clean the mats first and then finish them with the conditioner.

I picked up the weather tech cleaner and protector from Grabiak last year, made mine look like new.

sidekick works well but if you got the $$$ go for the master blaster revolution

Am I the only one who is disturbed that Adams is selling an item made in China? Adams actually stopped offering the PC a while back because its country of origin changed to China for a time. Now their logo is even on this thing! Im sure the product will perform and be a seller for them but it's sort of a deal with the devil. One not so minor reason I am an Adam's customer is because they didnt do this sort of thing.
 
 
Check out the video below, about 3 min in.
 
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jM55kroCAAs

I love my rupes mini

Could be. But I only tried TID once. And I did not use it again because on certain plastics it is uneven and/or streaks.
 
I used it on several types of surfaces too. Love the baby powder scent. But IMO it needs to be reformulated to leave absolutely nothing behind. Not even a hint of dressing aspect which I think is the problem.

Tolco's on the premium dilution bottles are the best option

Personally I'd use your Tolco's on those 32oz bottles if you have them - I've used both types of sprayers although they arent bad the Tolco's work better IMO

that is the point at which you bring her up to her closet to show her the amount of clothes and shoes she has...

Sorry, but if you're spraying DS or G&G, and IF the product is defective, you would have had a much larger area effected.  The whole area that was sprayed.  Not just two "spots".  Makes no sense.  JMO.

^i vote new best answer lol

I don't think these threads are complete without a quote from the guy who was behind the technical development and testing of the current Paint Sealant.
 
 
 
(emphasis added)
 
*you're 

Paint Sealant works best and lasts longest when applied to bare paint.

This comes up too often to waste my time typing - I don't use Glaze, if you use it, use it whenever you want to although I would recommend your strongest protection on top with nothing below it, personally - again, I don't use any filling products on my vehicles so its a moot discussion for me

This is not an accurate statement.  Megs makes many pro grade products including 105 which is quite difficult to work with.  If you are not professionally detailing then using a prosumer product like PCP in an 8 oz container is an excellent option.  8oz of product will last the average hobbyist detailer a long time.  It is a much better option and helps prevent the risk of product expiration.  So the prices went up...did you expect them to go down? 

This is not an accurate statement.  Megs makes many pro grade products including 105 which is quite difficult to work with.  If you are not professionally detailing then using a prosumer product like PCP in an 8 oz container is an excellent option.  8oz of product will last the average hobbyist detailer a long time.  It is a much better option and helps prevent the risk of product expiration.  So the prices went up...did you expect them to go down?