SJC96GT

I enjoyed the Soap Soap they came out with several years ago on 04/01 (when DvK was in the house). 

I've asked Larry Kosilla about Reflex. It's not an actual coating. He said it was like a paint Sealant on steroids. You can wash and reuse the towels for wiping away the Reflex after. You can't do that with any Ceramic coating. Anything from the Ammonyc line is good. I use some of his stuff too.

I typically use one glass towel and follow up with a 365 GSM microfiber towel. It removes any remaining residue. Give that a try and see what results you have. I have been doing this for quite some time for the windshield and glass anywhere else on the vehicle, after always using a 365 GSM microfiber towel the glass is completely streakless. Also, wanted to make mention a dirty glass towel will leave streaks for sure. Make sure is it washed and don't use fabric softener. Never dry towels at a high heat either make sure heat is medium (at highest), low or you can let them air dry.

Agree, this stuff is great!  I've been using it around the house to get some stubborn carpet stains out. 
 
I didn't think I would need a gallon at first, but it's on the wish list now.

I have to say, I'm very impressed by this product. The Odor Neutralizer (ON) is, simply put, effective.
 
I ordered two 16oz bottles as soon as they were released. I considered the 4oz option, but just felt like it was a tad expensive per oz. for my liking. I ended up trying these out in my house first. I had two tests:
 
#1) The wife test. I always show her how good all Adam's products smell (save a few *cough* wheel cleaner *cough*). She is always amazed. When I told her I had the new ON, she was initially worried that it would "cover up" the bad smells with a much stronger, perhaps more pleasant, smell. When I opened the bottle and had her smell it, she instantly was surprised that the smell wasn't crazy strong. In fact, before testing it she said she wanted to start using it around the house simply because it smelled nice and fresh.
 
#2) The actual odor test. Given that it was around Halloween, we had some pumpkins in the house that had, lets just say, gone horribly bad. The smell was putrid and I was quite concerned I would have to live with the smell for quite some time even after removing the pumpkins. So I figured this would be a perfect test for the ON. I sprayed two-three full pulls of the trigger into the room. I then sprayed one or two more directly to where the pumpkins had been. Admittedly I believe this was too much as the smell of the ON was a little strong for the first 10 minutes. However, the putrid rotten pumpkin smell was GONE and after those first 10 minutes or so, the ON smell was barely noticeable. COMPLETELY. And furthermore, it has never returned.
 
My wife couldn't believe it and immediately stole one of my 16oz bottles to keep in the house. I've since used it in her car, and mine and the results are the same. It's removed all sorts of smells from an oily vapor smell in the air, to dirty diapers. Adams truly nailed this product.
 
My ONE request....
 
MAKE IT AVAILABLE BY THE GALLON PLEASE!!

I think of patriot wax as my show car wax but it can be used for daily drivers if you want the best depth and shine. You can use H20 G&G over the wax if you so choose, it may hinder the depth and shine of the paint compared to the results 2 weeks ago whenever you applied and removed patriot. To keep that depth and shine that patriot gives the paint, I would recommend just using detail spray when drying the car that way you keep the car looking like you had it after you applied patriot wax.
 
In your case, I would use H20 G&G after a wash in 2-4 weeks and if you want that added depth and shine again after using H20 G&G, make patriot your LSP. The reason I say in 2-4 weeks depends on weather conditions, whether the car sits outside or is garage kept, etc. can change the lifespan of how long the wax lasts.

The answer is - it takes as long as it takes. 

And by that I mean its dependent on a number of factors; starting point of the vehicles (current condition), level of expectation of the customer, size of the vehicle, tools/chemicals being used, experience of the technician, etc. 

Could be hours, could be days, could be weeks. I have the benefit of having started, operated, and sold multiple businesses in the detail services sector now. My first was a full mobile rig in highschool doing very basic 'express' details. My friend and I could turn over multiple cars in a day. They all were greatly improved, very few were perfected, but that was the expectation the customer had. On the other end of the scale I worked as a private contractor doing only high end work - collections, restorations, concour prep. These jobs took no less than a day even when the car was already pristine but could take a full week or more in some cases. There is profit to be had in either sector... you either make a little on a lot or a lot on a little. A lot depends on skill level - I've been at this long enough that I can power thru jobs fairly fast - the benefit of 17+ years of this craft - but you need to determine your speed and price based on what your time is worth. 

That being said, to determine your own pricing you have 2 options: menu or hourly.

Menu is a fixed price - its $XXX.XX for a 'full detail', but you have to define what that means. The biggest challenge for anyone trying to do this as a business and make a PROFIT is establish what that price gets the customer and not go much beyond it. If you find yourself doing 3,4,5 steps and having to spend more time than expected you're going to far. A menu detail is a set number of steps, not a guaranteed result - so you promise the customer you will wash, clay, X# polishing steps, protection and done. If it nets 90% perfect great. If it nets 70% improvement thats what the customer gets. They paid for a number of steps, not a result. This is where most guys get tripped up, spending extra time to deliver a RESULT when they quoted a process. 

Hourly gives you the flexibility to deliver a result. You evaluate the car, provide the customer with an ESTIMATE of the number of hours with the understanding that it might come in lower or higher based on how things go when you get started. This is really only an approach I recommend taking once you are experienced enough to evaluate paint - theres nothing worse than having to call a customer who is expecting perfect in 8 hours and you have to tell him its going to take 20.  As long as you enter these jobs with a reasonable estimate of time involved and a clear agreement between you and the customer that there is grow or shrink room in the budget then its fine. This is truly the ONLY way a professional show prep or concour level job should be bid. 

Thats my 2 pennies worth - take it for what its worth. 

After I rub wedge or pad against grit guard, I squeeze out water and soap before going back to the soap bucket. I just like to make sure I'm getting the wedge or pads clean rather than it have full of dirty water.

After I rub wedge or pad against grit guard, I squeeze out water and soap before going back to the soap bucket. I just like to make sure I'm getting the wedge or pads clean rather than it have full of dirty water.

I have 6 of these in my garage, each put out 4,500 lumens. It really lights up the garage, all totaling to 27,000 lumens. And at that price and only requiring 40 watts each, I was all for it.
 
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/4ft-led-shoplight-shoplight-led/prod16460030.ip

I have 6 of these in my garage, each put out 4,500 lumens. It really lights up the garage, all totaling to 27,000 lumens. And at that price and only requiring 40 watts each, I was all for it.
 
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/4ft-led-shoplight-shoplight-led/prod16460030.ip

Just a heads up, as always Adam's customer service is fantastic! I have received an email back after emailing - orders@adamspolishes. A few may have accidentally came out of the mold incorrectly with those few geoimpressions missing. They already have a replacement on the way. Sounds like its nothing to be worried about or keep anyone from ordering the kit.
 
Rshadd, I wouldn't hesitate on ordering the kit, by the sounds of it a very small amount may have been affected.

Hi Seth, did it come straight out of the jar like that or did that happen after use? It does not look normal to me. If you don't mind, please send an email to orders@adamspolishes.com explaining the issue, attach that picture, and we will get things taken care of for you
 
Edit: I should have clarified in my original post that it will not affect the performance of the Visco Clay by having a few sections of the Geoimpression Tool missing from the mold, but we are investigating this.

Just pulled the trigger:
 
Rupes Bigfoot LHR 15 Mark II
3 Orange Pads
2 White Pads
2 Gray Pads
2 Microfiber Pads
Polish Combo
Pad Brush
Rupes Bigfoot Mini w/ 4" Pad Kit.
 
The painful part is going to be getting it early next week and then having to wait until the weekend to use it! 
Or just do a hood after everyone goes to bed ? LOL 

Are you getting a bunch of washes out of them and wedge still appearing as if its looks brand new? I thoroughly inspect my wash wedge and wash pad, the wedge is always cleaner after rubbing it against the grit guard. That's why its confusing to me when some are saying they've had it scratch their car, I'm wondering if they are inspecting the wedge after rubbing it against the grit guard? Sometimes it takes me 2-3 times to really clean the the wash pad, I'm really considering on using my current yellow one for lower part of car and using the new one for the middle of doors and such.

I personally like the wash wedge, I have a total of 3 but at the moment only use 2 of them. Maybe once, one of them show any sign of wear or start to appear dirty I will replace it with the new one I have. I use the red colored one for top part of car; from roof down to just under door handles. Then the other I use the yellow one for middle of door then I use a wash pad for the lower parts of the door. I do love how easily it releases the dirt and how after 30+ washes on multiple different vehicles they still look new. I think really rinsing off the vehicle for 3-4 minutes, then pre-soaking it and then foaming it down really helps remove any heavy dirt and debris on the vehicle. Could be one of the reasons that they still look brand new after all the washes they've gone through. That and I do rinse the wash wedges and wash pad out after every panel.

Welcome to the forum Mike!

If its real dirty and I'm not in the mood to wash the car, I'll spray some water on the windshield wipe dirt off with a older towel. Afterwards, I'll spray glass cleaner on windshield wipe with glass microfiber towel and the follow up with a third towel, a 300GSM microfiber towel to remove any left over residue and/or steaks. But usually if my glass is really dirty that means the rest of the car is and I usually wash vehicle. The glass is clean after a wash then I just use the glass cleaner, glass microfiber towel and again I follow up with 300GSM MF towel to be sure all residue and/or steaks are gone.
 
Another method that could be used is if you happen to have a spray bottle filled with diluted rinseless, you could spray that on the windshield wipe clean with an older towel and then follow up with glass cleaner and glass towel. I happen to have a lot of glass towels, that way I don't have to always wash towels every time I use them in order to have clean glass towels.