Erictski

Thanks Nathan.

dilute it 1:1 or even 2:1 (water to cleaner) for your car/truck if you don't have huge amounts of brake dust.  it still works great diluted and saves some money and product.

The larger 5.5" pads and longer orbit movement of the Swirl Killer will oscillate on the surface a little more slowly at a speed setting or 1 or 2 when compared to the smaller 4" pad and slightly smaller orbit movement on the Swirl Killer Mini. While you don't need to use downward pressure when applying a sealant or wax with a machine, the pad is still contacting the surface and creating some amount of drag, even if minimal. A larger surface area pad seems to create more drag to me than a smaller pad. I've done no scientific measurements for this observation other than hours of polishing and use with both machines.
 
Speed 2 on the Swirl Killer Mini does not correspond equally to speed 2 on the regular Swirl Killer, if you use both machines side by side with the same pads and sealant. If you test it out you will see what I mean. Speed 1 on the Swirl Killer Mini spins the pads at 2500 OPM, which is the same speed as setting 2 on the Swirl Killer as you had mentioned. 
 
You can try using the Swirl Killer Mini for sealant application, and it should give you pretty good results if running it on speed 1, just make sure to spread it around a lot before powering on the machine to avoid unnecessary slinging of sealant. For me personally, I can seal small areas by hand almost just as quickly as I would with the Swirl Killer Mini. I do however, still use the normal Swirl Killer to apply Paint Sealant to large body panels, since it provides consistent, even, and thin application of the product.

Does anyone have more details on the new red wash mitt? The site only mentions...
Soft, Scratch-Free Microfiber and Machine Washable.
 
How many GSM? Where is it made (e.g. Korea) What type of yarn? How is this mitt better than chenille?

I too would like to know if you wanted to use ceramic boost on an uncoated car do you apply it on bare paint or over liquid paint sealant? Seems like a new chart to explain the layering dos and donts for all the protections Adam's now carries is in order.

If you mean foam gun that works with the garden hose I use 4oz for the full canister and can suds my truck down three times. Once good let sit a bit and rinse. Foam again then two bucket and then a light foam with what is left to reactivate any suds that started to dry and final rinse. I use the tip that allows slower solution use of the two. I think it's the yellow-green one.

Good to know. I have two black Toyota daily drivers so I don't need show quality perfect, but I would like to improve it. Toyota paint/clear coat seems pretty easily swirled and scratched

I typically wash every two or three weeks, not nearly as much as many of you. My question is can I just use wash and wax every time and completely replace my regular car shampoo or does the wash and wax build up over time?
 
I like the idea of adding some protection every time and just using a little detail spray to dry with instead of using guard and gloss

Our Wash & Wax is more of a "wash & seal" but most average customers identify with the word "wax" more easily than "seal".
 
Adam's Wash & Wax has protection derived from silica, found in ceramic coatings. The Wash & Wax has nowhere near the durability of some of the professional ceramic coatings on the market that can last upwards of 3-5 years, but it does add some awesome water beading protection. On my personal truck, I brought it down to bare paint with multiple passes of our Strip Wash, and then washed a few days later with our Wash & Wax.
 
During the initial rinse of Wash & Wax, you will notice that the water almost sheets off the surface instead of beading up, as a few others here have posted videos and pictures on the forum. Then during the next wash or rainstorm, you will notice that it will bead up quite well on the flat surfaces like the hood, roof, trunk, etc. One application lasted over a month for me, and I suspect it would have lasted much longer, but I needed to remove all of the vinyl charity road rally decals and do a full paint correction for other testing purposes.
 
For me personally, I don't think I would apply H2O Guard & Gloss immediately after using Wash & Wax. I would probably wait a couple more washes before applying it just so that I'm not layering one form of protection of top of another immediately after the first layer, but that's the beauty of having different products with different techniques - some people may have a different process that works great too. Adam even says right in the video that it's fine to seal over it with H2O Guard & Gloss if you want to add even more shine and protection, but it's not necessary if you don't want to add that extra step.
 

Thanks guys. I don't have a problem with th wet application, just wondering if I needed to wait after the wash and wax. But I might try the dry method as I have never done that.

Leather Con is great.  like VRT for your interior.  I too still use the TID for weekly wipe down of the interior.  I keep a bottle in the truck with a couple small interior micro fibers.

Fellow civil engineer here. Highway design/construction and most currently traffic operations and signing. So glad to have that PE exam behind me????

Anyone else asking WTH is 10 coats of Ceramic Pro?

The word "shine" in Tire "Shine" is a little bit of a misnomer. Does it shine? Yes, but its not glossy shine. Can it? ABSOLUTELY! 
 
Here's I apply it, and am VERY satisfied with the flat "new rubber" look it gives me. I spray 4 or 5 sprays onto the foam applicator block and run it around the tire. after I make sure it's nice and even, since I'm wearing gloves, I either flip the foam applicator over or grab a "new" one and ring around the tire. This knocks some of the shine down.
 
I started with VRT, but got some tire shine from a mystery box and finally gave it a try. it is now my default tire dressing. I don't like glossy reflective shiny tires, and Tire Shine won't give you that in one round of application, it can however, if you go for that. 
I wrote a review on Tire Shine with some photos that's worth reading. 
 
It's been suggested that Tire Shine be renamed Tire Dressing, because I think there's a lot of people who don't try it because of the word "Shine." 
 
In a comparison test I did (left side vs. right side) VRT lasted about half as long as Tire Shine did in the same period of time, so you'll get more longevity out of Tire Shine than you will VRT on the tires. 

Congrats on the New Tacoma.  Got my Black 2016 Off Road on Jan 1st and I love it. 

I too have had great experience with Adams Customer service.  Very helpful and easily accessible.
 
Also as others have said, its one reason I am an adams user.  Tried the other "Guys" and no way near the commitment to there customers.
 
Between phone email and live chat as well as this forum.  Adams CS is top notch.

Revive - wipe residue
Paint Sealant - buff residue
Buttery Wax
 
I have not topped Paint sealant with Buttery yet so not sure if you need to wait a certain amount of time before waxing or not.  You can go ahead with your Liquid paint sealant as soon as you buff off the revive residue.

I'm no pro but I've never quite understood doing the Baggie test. I mean I know it instantly shows you or allows you to feel how rough the paint is but it goes against all the other discussions on this forum over never touching the paint with anything other than quality microfiber towels

I have the WD 1680 - 16gal.  if I was just going to use it for cars I would have gotten the WD4080- 4gal vac because it has a smaller size but same 6hp blower motor.
 
I absolutely love the blower attachment.  blow off the engine and wheels.  attach a hose and small crevice tool to blow out the mirrors and door jambs.  works great.  and because the blower detaches from the vac canister, there is much less chance of sucking dirt into the blower and shooting onto your paint.

I have the WD 1680 - 16gal.  if I was just going to use it for cars I would have gotten the WD4080- 4gal vac because it has a smaller size but same 6hp blower motor.
 
I absolutely love the blower attachment.  blow off the engine and wheels.  attach a hose and small crevice tool to blow out the mirrors and door jambs.  works great.  and because the blower detaches from the vac canister, there is much less chance of sucking dirt into the blower and shooting onto your paint.

I second your good experience with Ridgid.  in fact I have many ridgid tools which are perfect combination of quality and price for the DIY home owner.  I have the Ridgid vac with the detachable leaf blower.  that option works great to use to blow off my engine and wheels/wells after a wash.
 
The pro hose auto kit is great.  Smaller more flexible durable hose and attachments make getting into the small areas of the vehicle much easier.  I think the Ridgid offers great value for the money.

I do agree it would be nice for long handle fender brushes or wheel woolies that are difficult to fit down into the grit guard at the bottom of the bucket, but other than that I would be just fine with the regular Grit Guard.
 
I did share this thread with Adam and the team to get their thoughts as well. I'll keep everyone posted.

I believe this photo was from SEMA 2015 so probably not quite out for distribution yet.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Stor-N-Go-5-Gal-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-WD5500/100377372
 
I do not have this model but have 2 other ridgid shop vacs and really like them. $100 list price gives you $50 more to get hose extensions or attachments.
 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Premium-Car-Cleaning-Kit-VT2534/100638355
 
I have the above hose kit for my vacs and love it for car cleaning.

I saw this product discussed on another forum and was curious when Adams (being grit guard supporters/sellers) would be able to start selling this?
 
I love this idea and will make it much easier to scrub the wash pad in the rinse bucket.