Joeinmo

I own a fencing company

08G8V8, I have to say, that setup is a thing of beauty!

^Yes I use one of the black microfiber applicators and keep it in a separate area by my wheel/tire applicators so I know its for wheel sealant application only.  I also use black microfiber dedicated wheel towels to remove it.

Sealing with LPS on a microfiber designated for wheels?

Well now that you ordered it, I can tell you that the master blaster really blows.

Apply Glaze with a red pad if possible. It's a finer foam designed to be used with the glaze as it is a finer product.

Well, I went ahead and pulled the trigger. Now the waiting begins... I have LSP on both DDs so I'm really looking forward to no more drying towels! I also got a tin of Patriot in the last Mystery Box, so I'll keep the LSP topped off with that for even easier drying. 

APC overspray on the fenders or quarter panels is less a concern than the sealed wheels. My recommendation is to spray the APC on the tires first, then scrub them and rinse them, rinsing the wheels really well to avoid APC running onto them with the water. Then wash the wheels.
 
A good sealant isn't going to be compromised by a little APC running over it. If you agitate APC on a sealed surface, then I would re-seal afterwards as a matter of course.
 
Hot Tip: On sealed wheels, maintain with GG after washing. Works a treat.

It can replace 75 to 80% of towel drying. Especially once you get a good LSP layer on. I still find myself going back around with either a waterless wash towel or single soft and some detail spray and getting whatever might be or still "dripping" 

Must be love!  
I Rinseless Washed the wife's R/T today, took me the afternoon. Now it's occupying MY half of the garage staying nice and clean while the ATS4 is in the driveway getiin' all polleny & s***! Dang thing is so big it won't fit in the camera frame.

Cleaned, clayed, cleaned and put a layer of paint sealant on the Finacé's Citadel today. I like shiny things!
 

Cleaned, clayed, cleaned and put a layer of paint sealant on the Finacé's Citadel today. I like shiny things!
 

I just fill to the top of the label. All are filled and are straight in rows. Also, the cabinet is locked to keep small hands from "reorganizing" for me. The fiancé enjoys clothes shopping, I enjoy detailing chemicals shopping. Every ying needs a yang! 

When I was a kid this is how I pictured vehicles south of the equator. 

When I was a kid this is how I pictured vehicles south of the equator. 

Oh I don't have a problem with the single soft, it works really well with them. I just had to go back and scan the description when I got the package because I thought something was odd. 

Yes Joe that is correct. I contacted Adams about that and they should get that fixed so they will ship with the gray borderless towels.

I currently lease the house I'm living in, so a permanent solution wasn't an option. Ended up adding a Kobalt cabinet and giving my Adam's products a safe place to stay. What's your solution? 

I currently lease the house I'm living in, so a permanent solution wasn't an option. Ended up adding a Kobalt cabinet and giving my Adam's products a safe place to stay. What's your solution? 

Welcome Joe. I am also from Missouri, Republic to be exact. Have you had your car at the Coffee and Cars meets over on Sunshine?

I think you have a great method there, but might be more than you need. 
 
Personally, what I do for my truck, which does about 1k miles a week for refference. 
 
Wheels are done with Paint sealant 2x per year (at least)
 
So 1:1 APC and scrub the tires and wheel wells at the same time, scrub molded mud flaps too 
Apply Tire Shine 
Use rinseless made to waterless with multiple towels, usually the borderless orange (same as the grey) this is sometimes done 2x week if it has been raining and nasty out. If it was really bad I will go to a full rinseless or two bucket as needed 
Clean Glass interior and exterior (this is sometimes done 2x week)
VRT trim and mud flaps 
Coat with buttery wax
Polish (step 2 only usually) front and rear bumpers and tube steps 
 
That takes me about 2-2.5 hrs and keeps her really shiny and looking awesome. 
 
Interior wipe down with usually detail spray (LOVE the scent) add about 15-20 min depending on how far I need to go. 

4oz of Shampoo is a lot for the 2 bucket wash,I go 2oz to 4 gallons, just as foamy,slick and save you some cash

Glass sealant every month is too much. It should last you six months unless you're driving in a lot of rainy weather.

Once I have my car properly sealed and keep it topped with H2O, I can generally wash, dry, and "trim" the exterior in about an hour. I'll usually split it up over two nights if I'm doing when I get home. night one, is exterior, night two is interior. My interiors are fewer than my exteriors because I try to keep that neat and current so it never really needs a deep clean. Once a quarter I'll bust out the L&I cleaner and Leather Conditioner. 

The answer is - it takes as long as it takes. 

And by that I mean its dependent on a number of factors; starting point of the vehicles (current condition), level of expectation of the customer, size of the vehicle, tools/chemicals being used, experience of the technician, etc. 

Could be hours, could be days, could be weeks. I have the benefit of having started, operated, and sold multiple businesses in the detail services sector now. My first was a full mobile rig in highschool doing very basic 'express' details. My friend and I could turn over multiple cars in a day. They all were greatly improved, very few were perfected, but that was the expectation the customer had. On the other end of the scale I worked as a private contractor doing only high end work - collections, restorations, concour prep. These jobs took no less than a day even when the car was already pristine but could take a full week or more in some cases. There is profit to be had in either sector... you either make a little on a lot or a lot on a little. A lot depends on skill level - I've been at this long enough that I can power thru jobs fairly fast - the benefit of 17+ years of this craft - but you need to determine your speed and price based on what your time is worth. 

That being said, to determine your own pricing you have 2 options: menu or hourly.

Menu is a fixed price - its $XXX.XX for a 'full detail', but you have to define what that means. The biggest challenge for anyone trying to do this as a business and make a PROFIT is establish what that price gets the customer and not go much beyond it. If you find yourself doing 3,4,5 steps and having to spend more time than expected you're going to far. A menu detail is a set number of steps, not a guaranteed result - so you promise the customer you will wash, clay, X# polishing steps, protection and done. If it nets 90% perfect great. If it nets 70% improvement thats what the customer gets. They paid for a number of steps, not a result. This is where most guys get tripped up, spending extra time to deliver a RESULT when they quoted a process. 

Hourly gives you the flexibility to deliver a result. You evaluate the car, provide the customer with an ESTIMATE of the number of hours with the understanding that it might come in lower or higher based on how things go when you get started. This is really only an approach I recommend taking once you are experienced enough to evaluate paint - theres nothing worse than having to call a customer who is expecting perfect in 8 hours and you have to tell him its going to take 20.  As long as you enter these jobs with a reasonable estimate of time involved and a clear agreement between you and the customer that there is grow or shrink room in the budget then its fine. This is truly the ONLY way a professional show prep or concour level job should be bid. 

Thats my 2 pennies worth - take it for what its worth.