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I would disagree that you dont have a need or space for a full system, as most of the wood workers out there are in small shops like that and have full systems. See bellow for more. 
 
 
That was a great video that I actually watched a while back (Been a sub of his for years, he makes awesome stuff esspecially the big wheel). There are a ton of great woodworkers on youtube operating basically out of 2 car garages, Izzy is a bit bigger and more low budget, Kind of like a Steve Ramsey can be. I would say check out the likes of April Wilkerson before she build her huge shop, she worked out of a "shed" at one point that was probably smaller than a 2 car garage and had a full setup (link to the video on Harbor Freight dust collector modifications). Some may not like him but he has made great points on dust collection and the importance of protecting your lungs, and that would be Mark Spagnuolo. Yes he uses more expensive tools and equipment, but the points are still valid. He recently did a video comparing 3 dust collection systems (and yes one was that F brand....) you might be surprised at the results. 
 
I am definately doing box fans, as my new wood working space is rather large, and box fans are cheap, but I will also have a full setup for all my stationary tools (Including a few that will be on carts like my planer) just for ease of use. Feel free to drop a PM if you want to keep talking shop, Im more than happy to, as I am currently designing my new wood shop. 

Hate to say they are right, but it also sounds like your wood shop could use a dust collection upgrade. Should ask santa for a simple shop vac add on one, makes cleanup so much easier! 

Finally got to try the black trim restorer kit.  My running boards were looking terrible.  Wanted to see how it compares to vrt for color so here's some before and afters.
 
Pre cleaning (naked right, just trc left):

 
Just vrt no trc

 
Trc then vrt (did not get grooves)

 
After trim restorer (trc, coating prep, restorer)

 
In person the trim restorer look like a deeper black than vrt, personally I'm extremely happy with the results, can't wait to get to the rest of the trim on other side and bumper
 
Nastyness

Foam Wars - a video that shows a line of foam cannons filled with the same amount of water (preferably distilled for comparison) and show adding the same amount of soaps from the different ones offers - pop each in the pressure washer and shoot - see the difference from the same video, same environment, etc.
 
Also would be nice to see a comparison of different soaps with different concentrations - ie reg shampoo with 2 oz added, 3 oz added, 4 oz...5, etc.  It would be nice to have a controlled environment available to showcase the differences.  I've read many posts about ultra foam not yielding any better suds than reg but maybe ultra foam doesn't get foamier past a certain # of ounces while regular does.  Does strip wash foam as good as the rest?  Dunno, but showcasing all in the same context would be pretty sweet.

I've tried a lot of things as I have the same situation as you.  Tried vinegar - no go, tried just claying - no go - tried meguiars water spot remover (just with a microfiber) - no go, I had to polish mine off.  A friend of mine had etching from over a year of collecting water spots and at the time all i had was griots one step (non-boss) and the meguiars 4inch drill attached DA.  Took about 4 hours but was able to get about 95% of the water spots off so any quality polish should work for you but not sure if that's more of a pain in the *** than doing the vinegar.

You also want to be careful using an air compressor on the interior, too.  If the compressor's tank has any moisture in it and no in-line filter, you'll be forcing that moisture into your fabric seats, carpets, etc.  The issue there is that the moisture is not clean and will contain whatever residue is in the tank....rust, particulate matter, etc.  

Hey, I have a dozen 16oz bottles of product that I wish were gallons.  Maybe if I call and explain I mistakenly ordered the wrong size, they'll send me the gallons for no charge and tell me to keep the 16oz ones.   

A lot of your questions have been answered regarding sealants, waxes and their maintenance. I guess I’ll dive into the coatings a bit. 
 
My first question is why are you skeptical? You mention that you don’t know how so little product can protect your vehicle. Why couldn’t it?  The majority of any product we apply gets buffed off and ends up towels leaving an extremely thin layer of protection. Sealants and waxes leave a softer protection than a coating. I understand the “more has to be better” outlook on some level, but that’s purely visceral of a reaction and ignores the chemistry behind the protection.
 
Coatings are in fact harder, longer lasting, lower maintenance and more protection than a regular wax or sealant. That being said, coatings do require maintenance (different from a wax or sealant) and they are not impossible to damage. 
 
Coatings work by bonding to bare paint. This bond forms a microns thick layer of hard protection. Ceramic coatings tend to be much harder than your clear coat. They maintain their gloss without fading as long as the coating remains on. Depending on the coating used, there may be different layers (Adams is a single layer coating) to it. A hard base layer with sacrificial top layers that enhance gloss and hydrophobic action. A wax or sealant is a softer, wear layer that’s softer than your clear coat. 
 
To maintain a coating, you need to decontaminate it every so often. We commonly recommend twice per year. This involves iron decontamination of the paint and a light claybar. From there it’s as easy as using whatever topping agent (Ceramic Boost or other) on top. There’s less polishing. Less laps around the vehicle. And it’ll stay looking great.
 
The biggest thing if a client comes back and says their coating stopped working right is that their coating needs to be decontaminated. It’s not coating failure, but contaminated paint. 
 
My daily driver over has been coated in a coating from another manufacturer for over a year now. It’s been washed a handful of times and driven all the time. When washed, clayed and topped it looks like we just gave it the full service. It’s got a small micro scratch here or there, but generally the paint is in great shape. 
 
Hope this helps to explain coatings some. If you want to explore them, we can talk about prep and install practices. 

I really enjoy videos where people wash or restore random vehicles. Maybe go to a customers house and record the process of how you clean/repair that particular vehicle. Maybe a truck that just got back from offroading, or how to clean a wrapped car, etc...That way we can see how well the products work with abused vehicles and it shows different an creative ways to use your products. 

Thanks, I'll have to try this!

Here's a trick I've learned to help stop the squeaking/jumping wiper blades.
 
Step 1.) Wipe the rubber of the wiper blade off with Windshield Wiper Fluid and a paper towel until no more black come off onto the paper towel. Let Dry.
 
Step 2.) Wipe the rubber of the wiper blade down with Glass Sealant. Let Dry. Buff down the Glass Sealant with a clean paper towel.

No cure time that i know of.
 
Longevity?  My truck is garage kept and only driven in the rain when I have to work on a rainy day.  I drive 30miles 1 way,  hi way, farm country, and city. 
 
It lasts me a while.  But at the same time, between boost and GnG, I have never seen a depressed amout of beads.  
 
You know I hit my wifes car a few times a year with both and same thing.  Beads never diminish.  Hers is always outside and is our more common rainy day car.  
 
I dont use much either, just a couple spritz,  nothing close to what Adam does in the glass boost video.
 
I would think it lasts 2-3 months.  
 
And another thought,  I did my parents car and windshield last June (2017) with paint sealant...their windshield still beads!

On coated vehicles you would want to maintain your coating with Ceramic Boost. https://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/coatings/adam-s-ceramic-boost-16oz.html
As for BG yes let it haze a bit before wiping off. Depending of weather etc. it normally doesn't take that long to haze.
Hope this helps!

Hi from Littleton, just signed up read all the rules and totally agree with them all. I have been using Adams products for over two years now and found them to be great.  I also introduced the products to both of our boys plus several members of the Rocky Mountain Triumph CLUB Members.  All have used the products and also agree they are the best they have ever used and will continue to use those products.  I attended one of Adams clinics and the best part of that, is I won the grand prize by putting my RMTC card in the pumpkin and it was drawn letting me win that great prize. Been using it ever since not to mention helping our sons and club members making their cars look great. Thanks Adam for the clinic and introducing me to all of your great products. We are planning on being at your grand opening of your new location tomorrow, hope to see all of you then..

Finally washed and waxed my two daily drivers 

Tried out some ceramic boost. 

Washed, clayed and sealed.
 
 
 

That's a question??? Go big or go home!  

Let’s go in order of your questions...
 
1 - If your vehicle is coated, it should maintain a high gloss finish. BG is a very short lasting product. It’s benefit, if any would be limited. 
 
2 - There’s no need to wax over a coating. Americana is exactly that...a wax. We would use wax over sealant and glaze, but not over a coating. Like I’ve mentioned before, gloss is a result of your prep and that is enhanced and protected with LSP. Product isn’t enough to cover up poor prep. 
 
3 - BG is similar to sealant in application. Apply by hand or by machine at low speed then wipe off. You can leave the residue on while you apply prior to buffing. 

I can only answer #3. No cure/dry time needed. Apply, then buff away. 
 
 

It won't completely negate it, but it will definately help prolong it.
 
Like Beemer said above, the appearance of it will let you know when it is time to start fresh.

In my experience a month is pushing it. I save for two or three weeks tops.
 

This is exactly why I choose to be heavily involved in this particular forum. I don’t want to have to argue every last point with everyone who has an alternative method. 
 
It it is truly a pleasurable forum to be a part of. 
 
Enjoy your stay here.