falcaineer

Yes, humidity plays a big part in performance.  The trick is to use it SPARINGLY!  A little goes a LONG way.  And use TWO towels.  I know a lot of guys have issues with streaking that shows up on darker colored cars, but if you think about it, those streaks are on light colored cars too, they're just not that noticable.  But the two DRY towels work pretty well. I'm thinking of warming the wipe off towel as I use it.  Let it sit in the sun between wipes.  Can't hurt.  

Compounding and polishing will not remove orange peel.  Wet sanding will but this is not a task for someone who is starting to learn.  There are plenty of videos on new car preps.  
 
It is a good idea to use an iron remover to ensure that there is no fallout on the paint. You can judge from there if you need to clay.  The car may be new but how long was it on the lot and also that it was in transit to the lot.  
 
As far as compounding and polishing, do a test spot with the polish and see if the finish is what you want.  If it is then no need to compound.    

I absolutely concur with Chris on this one.  He recommended getting one for my wife's vehicle and without a doubt it is the best drying towel that I've ever used.

The Ultra Plush is hands down my favorite drying towel and my recommendation. 

The Ultra Plush is hands down my favorite drying towel and my recommendation. 

True shine comes from proper paint correction. The rest is enhancement and protection.
That said, what color is the car?

Polish it off.

Make sure it's completely clean first, apply the coating, then wipe it down to level after 20-30 seconds. Doing that, you should be just fine. The chalkiness seems to happen when people apply it but don't level or remove the residue (the old instructions said that was ok, they've since been updated). I've never had an issue when I leveled it, especially within a short amount of time as mentioned above.

It is summer of 2022 and I finally have the plywood on the walls and it is starting to look like a garage inside.  The summer has been a challenge between the heat, the loss of my mother and my wife's father, so the structural work has been going real slow.
 
We're finally at the point to start focusing on the ceiling which will follow the pitch up to the center section which will be installed as a flat section.  Once the ceiling is in, I'll be able to mount all my lights permanently along with the putting in the ceiling fans.  From there I'll finish the walls and install the cabinets and workbench.    The first 8 feet of the walls, the yellow pine plywood, will most likely just be painted.   
 
I'm still undecided on what I want to do with the upper section of the walls, the Plytanium.  There won't be anything installed on the upper part beyond a speaker and a few lights, so it is more about what will look good and be easily maintained given how high it is.   If I can find the right Mustang and Bowtie lights, that would make it easier to figure out what to do with the ends.  
 
Yes, I know the the lawn mower is dirty.  It will get a proper wash, polish and Graphene coating this winter.
 
Fall is getting closer and the temps will come down and make it possible to work outside for more than a few hours in the morning.
 
 

Ok, so the past few days I have been getting the car prepped to apply the Graphene Advanced Spray Coating.  The prep as you all know is the hardest part and that is why the professional detailers charge so much.  First let me say my car is not a daily driver and is garage kept and most of the time it is covered, so the finish on my car was not in bad shape only a few spots that took a little time to correct.  I started with the One Step Polish and pad and worked on the areas that needed the most work.  From there I switched to the white pad and the standard polish to finish the correction and prep.  Today I went and used the Surface Prep.  For some reason I had a lot of trouble with any of the different towels that I tried leaving lint and towel fibers plus what looked like polish residue.  I finally went with the blue waterless drying towels and that did the trick.
While this is the first time to use the Graphene product, I had previously used the UV Ceramic spray.  I did find that I had an issue with the double soft towers again when I went to remove the coating that they wanted to leave a lot of lint/fibers where the coating ended, and the non-coated surface was.  I decided that it was the towels and not the product because after trying a few different towels I no longer had that issue.  So those towels will only be used for dirty work and will no longer be used on the paint.
The application was straight forward however I live in Florida so the temp is high as well as the humidity, so I started by only doing a small area at first fearing it would flash before I ever got a larger area completed.    Once I decided that I had the time to say do a complete fender it went a lot faster.  One thing I did learn was don't keep spraying the applicator pad for every panel.  They get overloaded and will lay down too much product and that adds to the flash time and the ease of removal. 
I have to admit the finish on the car is like a mirror now.  

I am going to apply the Graphene  Spray Advanced Ceramic tomorrow and I just completes the paint correction today.  The paint was not in bad shape and really only needed some minor correction in a few areas.  Besides not being a daily driver it is garage kept and I have a very strict wash method, so swirls and small scratches are never a real issue.  After a full bath a few days ago I did the plastic baggy test to see if I needed to clay the finish and the paint was smooth as can be seeing I did a full clay of the paint a year ago.  
So I started with the One Step Polish and the One Step Pad and did the areas that show paint correction needed.  I then switched over to the plan polish and white pad for the majority of the car.  Tomorrow I will wipe the car down with the Surface Prep and then apply the Graphene Advance Spray coating.
Here are a few shots of the polish and correction.
 

I would definitely recommend the Graphene lineup. Of those, the spray versions are a ot easier, but the traditional/small bottle will last much longer. Prep is the same.
 
If that doesn't really help, this should give some more info to help decide:
 
 
 

Hi Ahmed,
If you choose to do a ceramic or graphene coating it has to go on top of the film.  One of the common things to do is put PPF in the areas where the vehicle will host the most abuse, the front, behind the wheel wells and the rocker panels.  Then you can coat the entire vehicle.  The PPF will help protect against rock chips and such, although some can still leave marks.  The coating will keep the vehicle looking good for a longer time and make it easier to keep clean.

Welcome, Kevin!

Had a fantastic weekend at g.m nationals!!!   Great weather!!
Took first in class c5 and got a celebrity pic!!
 
 

No, Wheel Cleaner isn't designed for anything more than iron removal besides cleaning aspects I know you said otherwise, but I would recommend Fine Grade Clay. Use lots of Detail Spray and go from there.

I have been using it in a foam cannon for about a year. I just cant tell you what my dilution is, LOL! I just kind of eyeball it. It is likely around 50/50. I guess I should get an actual number next time. But, it does work and I haven't had any issues with it sitting in the foam cannon. I am using an old Adam's cannon that is dedicated to the Wheel & Tire Cleaner only.

From that photo it looks like that area has been sanded and never finished out.  Was that area ever repainted?  
 
It is possible that it is burn through.  

After over 5 years my tonneau cover got a hole in it and need to be replaced.  The new cover arrived and was put on today and received a Graphene Coating.   For the smaller boxes, I do the coatings in 4 sections and the first picture shows the first section once it was done.  The different the coating makes it pretty substantial.  The second picture is once the entire cover is complete.
 
Of note, with the Graphene Coating, I cannot see it flash so I have to go by feel or 3 minutes, whichever is shorter.

I was able to do a few more sections of the car. Yes, it virtually does not rainbow at all on my car color. It was about 3 minutes to tacky before I leveled and wiped the coating off. Checking with the LED light the coverage is even. I'm on the right track now, thank you for the application tips and suggestions!
 
Gary

Ditto!
 
You know @RayS, I would like to recommend an airline ticket to Mary...think that would be ok?! 😁

Still waiting for my invite Ray!  

Hard to believe that we have not posted anything in here since May 2021.  I know that the last year+ has been a bit of a blur, but it is summer and time to get back to having some good food on the grill.
 
Last night was little Surf & Turf with Filet Mignon and Salmon cooked on the grill.
 

Hi Chris
I'm using Westinghouse iGen 2500/2.200-Watt Super Quiet Gas Powered Inverter Generator with my Adam's Pro-Series Pressure Washer and it works fine.

Sergeant Slaughter