falcaineer

Try Strip Wash or Surface Prep to remove the wax. You don't need a dedicated car shampoo for matte paint, just something that doesn't add any gloss like our regular Car Shampoo or Mega Foam, and then you can use Matte Detailer to touch up, use as a drying aid, etc.

It went very well. I used a sponge, car shampoo and pressure washer, got all of it off and no visible signs that it was ever there. Thanks for the advice! 

I'm not familiar with that fungus, but a quick Google search infers to try soap and water first along with a pressure washer; vinegar may also work. If they've been on there a while, which it sounds like, the article said the spores are sticky so I would try TAR.

Thank you! I will definitely be attending the shine academy as soon as I can! I live very close to the Thornton Colorado location.

After 30 years in media and detailing on the side. I am taking a chance on opening my own shop! 

Wow! Thank you for the in depth response. I'll check out the video tonight before I detail tomorrow. As for the classes, the summer is my busy season but I'll 100% see if I can make one work in the fall.. seems well worth while.

The only other thing I forgot to ask, any recommendations or tips for paint chip repair? I have one on a bolt on the Jeep, the bolt can't be removed (without making it worse) and I've looked at ChipFixx which I have a kit (unsure if the paint is still good, roughly 6 months old) so going to do a test spot on another chip - BUT, what is the best way to make chips invisible?  Sorry for mentioning another product here, I know you don't sell paint chip repair paint etc so hopefully I didn't break a rule here.

A lot to digest here, so I'll give it a whirl... But first, welcome! Be sure to post an intro so we can get to know you and see what you're keeping shiny.
 
In short, there's no one right answer, it depends. I know that's not a popular answer, but detailing is an art, not a science. Every car and finish is different, even the same year, make and model sitting next to each other will probably need at least somewhat different approaches. And black cars are a lifestyle - as Adam says when people ask what they need to care for black paint? White paint! haha
 
The steps needed to get the car looking its best are based on many factors including how the car is maintained, where its parked, usual driving conditions, and others. Also, the type of pads and chemicals will factor in to how often you can do the paint correction, but that's not all - the protection on the car, the overall condition of the clear coat, routine wash methods, etc., also play into the equation.
 
On average, today's cars have 1-2 mils (~25-50 microns) of clear coat. That said, if there's ever been any bodywork that number could vary pretty dramatically. It could also be thinner around edges of body panels and along thinner parts of the body like vents and fins. A paint gauge will be your friend in the process if you're concerned. How much is removed will vary based on how soft or hard it is, the pads and chemicals used, the process to correct the paint, etc. For you, Jeep paint is usually pretty easy to correct but black can take some finesse to finish down properly.
 
Hand polishing in general would be less aggressive, we simply can't replicate a machine's speed and power. But polishing too long by hand especially where clear coat is thin may ultimately cause some damage.  I would guess that would be rare, but possible.
 
Waiting or not before polishing again will not probably not make much of a difference, so that's up to you. Note a one step polish generally will not remove all defects in the paint, I recommend you have the detailer do a test spot on an area indicative of most of the car and you see if you'll be happy with that result. If not, a different approach may be warranted.
 
For the proper wash methods, here's a video that should explain just about everything you need to know. I also linked a winter wash video for future reference, but they're usually updated annually so new products may be available next year.
 
If you're interested in learning from us to do it yourself, we offer a 2-day class called the Shine Academy. It's an investment, but the cost includes course fees, course certificate, goods totaling $500+ including a Swirl Killer Pro of your choice and kit, Graphene Ceramic Coating kit, meals and more. We have students from around the world attend and I promise it's worth it.
 
Keep the questions coming, we're here to help!
 
 
 
 

Welcome, Robert! You've come to the right place, ask any questions you have!

If you haven't upgraded to Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating (Advanced), do so. It'll help with the slide angle and beads will run off easier. It's also less prone to stains, etc.

Welcome, Greg! Ask any questions you have we are all here to help and learn together.

The paint needs a good polishing to restore it back to the original color.  

5th time I've applied a ceramic coating to a vehicle (4 times on my own stuff and once for a friend).  This is the second time this car (my 2015 Challenger) has been done,  I originally did it in 2018 with the 9H Adams kit.  I feel like it came out even better this time around.  I applied the coating last Saturday (4/09/2022) and let it "cure" in my garage for almost 6 full days before applying the ceramic boost.  This stuff continues to impress me, especially in the Florida heat!  Close to 30 hours start to finish with strip wash, clay bar, trim, engine compartment, interior, polisher, coating, boost, and cleanup.  
 

Just wanted to add an update after using the Graphene Tire Dressing all winter I am really liking how it works. I like it enough to have ordered a gallon of it.
 

Corrected the lights on a motorhome so the owner could see a bit better at night.
 
 

I can also vouch that Adam is still involved with the company. Had the pleasure of hanging out with him last week in Anaheim both on the job and after hours, and he's the same awesome person he's always been!
 
In his words from when Adam's partnered with Recochem in 2020:
 
"We have a new business partner, and are very excited.  Recochem is an established, high integrity Canadian company, roughly 10X our size.  We can now produce our chemicals  at our facilities in the USA, or theirs in Canada, Singapore, and Australia.   
 
Recochem now has manufacturing facilities in the USA.  With this strong manufacturing and financial backing, we intend to grow Adam’s more profoundly than ever. 
 
Our outstanding executive team will remain shareholders. We are growing and looking to hire additional qualified team members.  
 
I’m still a shareholder in the business, but no longer the majority owner.  I will be attending our Cars & Coffees, Hot August Nights, Corvettes at Carlisle, SEMA, Barrett-Jackson, and other large events.  
 
I will continue to film new product and instructional detailing videos.  My role and title will remain Founder & Chief Detailer.  
 
My goal is spend more time with my wife and our three young children. This move provides me the time to focus on our family."

Simply apply VRT to all trim as a first step, any polish or sealant that gets on there will be easily removed by wiping it away with a towel. 🙂
 
Note you should not do this if you intend to use a Graphene Ceramic (Spray) Coating.

Orange Julius

Use some TRC and an Edgeless Utility Towel and it'll clean right up.

Agreed with @The Guz, do a test spot to see what gives the best results for that car.

There is no way to know.  The best thing you could do is a test spot and determine what type of finish you would consider is good enough to move onto the coating.  

Yes, but you may find you will not need it as much or as often. Ceramic coating generally makes surfaces easier to clean so soap and water might be all you need.

Yes, but you may find it won't be as necessary. 

Looks awesome! Another incredible combo is Patriot + BG. Enjoy the show!!

Yes, Strip Wash is safe for it. I would strongly consider you at least check to see if it needs clay (I'd bet it does) and/or paint correction, even new cars need love, too! In fact, they often get contaminated while being shipped from factory and swirls while on the lot. For the need to clay, you can always try the baggy test, first rub your fingers very lightly over a clean spot on the car like the hood, then place your hand into a plastic ziplock bag and very lightly do the same thing in the same area. Those bumps that you feel are bonded contamination that will be removed with clay. Also, true shine comes from proper paint correction, the rest is enhancement and protection.
 
With coatings, it's vital your paint is as clean and close to perfect as you can get it because whatever is there will be locked in for years. In other words, taking a shortcuts or skipping steps can ultimately detract from the overall end result, including the coating's ability to properly bond, the longevity, overall look of the car, etc. Take the time to do all necessary things properly now and you'll get the best results in the end.
 
Here's an article on Graphene Ceramic coatings including how to prep and apply it. Of course, you're also more than welcome to attend our Shine Academy for in-depth instruction! Let us know if you have any more questions.
 
 

Use Surface Prep to clean the glass, then apply Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating (Advanced) to your glass. You could also use Glass Sealant, Glass Boost or the new Anti-Fog, but those are more temporary solutions. Let us know what you decide!