RayS

Lemon bars

Welcome to the Forum Trap. I use Graphene Detail Spray, CS3 and Ceramic Waterless Wash at various times. I do like the wet look of the Graphene Detail Spray, but all three have their uses. Ceramic Waterless Wash is my preference if the vehicle has been out in the rain or picked up a little road dirt, CS3 when it doesn't need anything but I just want to touch it up and have the garage smell good. You can use CS3 in place of Ceramic Waterless Wash, I have both so I use both. Graphene Detail Spray whenever there could be a speck of dust on the wife's garage queen.

I have also found that car shampoo takes care of the coated wheels the vast majority of the time. I tend to use Eco Wheel Cleaner more than regular wheel cleaner, it doesn't smell nearly as bad. I also use the Wheel & Tire Cleaner and have not found any adverse effects on the coated wheels.

Artist unknown

It will be fine, just remember to keep it in the house so it doesn't freeze.

I have removed the clear coat from wheels twice. The first time was using a chemical stripper and I can say it was a learning experience. Since I only used a chemical once and I was not familiar with the chemical, I have no way of knowing if it was the expected outcome, if I messed up or the chemical wasn't up to the task. The end result is that the wheels did not come out very good. I just can't say exactly why, but talking to others I was told it takes practice to get it right. The second try was using sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) as the sand blasting media. This worked very well and did not damage the wheels themselves and I was able make them look very good again. I did have the wheels clear coated by a person that painted cars, so they were done right. Overall, the sand blasting and being clear coated made the wheels more than acceptable for a daily driver. Good luck with your efforts.

Interest waiver

I have found the Toyota PPF to polish up nicely, but a little on the soft side. If you have any doubts on the ability to prevent heat buildup while machine polishing, don't hesitate to hand polish it. Once it has been polished and you apply the coating it should look great and be less susceptible to embedded swirl marks. According to what the dealer did with the vehicle, the less you need to touch the PPF, the better off you are.

Banger songs

Hi Steve, I have a battery operated variable speed Dremel that allows me to use tiny felt pads to go around the bolts and other tiny parts on the motorcycles. I buy them in bulk since it is not unusual to shred one or two on a single bolt. There is no way to go around the bolts by hand, so you have to use some type of machine. For the larger parts, like side covers, I do them entirely by hand. Based on the experience with the Demel for the bolts and other hard to reach areas, I don't see any reason why you couldn't use one of the Adam's polishers. The one thing that I would recommend is to use a soft pad. This is based from my use of borderless gray or felt pads when I'm using the metal polishes. My biggest concern is a scratch on the chrome since the only fix is a re-chrome and that gets expensive quickly. I have not looked into ultra soft or felt based pads for the polishers, so hopefully some others will respond with their experiences.

Gun lock which is not the same as a Glock.

When Chris wrote his note about 4 hours ago it was only 71 at my house and usually Sumter is about 2 degrees less than the Columbia area. I hope you got your vehicles washed today. I do have to agree with Chris, it needs to be at least 45 and sunny before I wash in the driveway, anything less than that gets a waterless inside the garage.

Up north

My local Chevy dealer is good about honoring the same discounts that are available on the Adam's web site. They also like the advertising whenever one of my vehicles shows up there since they look great and I can talk about the products.

Out house

If you stop by your local Ace hardware you can pick up a good set of Brass quick connects and grab the matching shutoff from the Adam's site and that will help a lot. If you like the upper end equipment, then look at something along the lines of Eley hose reel and quick connectors. Of course, you want to make sure you have a good rubber hose that won't kink and will stand up to dragging on the pavement. Yes, Adam's has you covered on that one also. As for doing large vehicles, I did a quad-cab, Chevy diesel dually, long box that was Black during the spring in South Carolina. The sun can dry the shampoo rather quickly and the thing that I have found is to use the shade as much as possible. I always make sure that as much of the vehicle is in the shade as possible and where the sun is hitting the vehicle, that will be the last part sprayed and first part wiped down. If you do get a place that has dried, just go over it again with the wash mitt being real wet and it will revive the shampoo and then you should be good.

Station wagon

Bug Smashed

One additional comment about the Ceramic Liquid Wax, a little bit will cover a lot of area. If you are used to Buttery Wax, which is a great product, you'll probably find you need 1/2 to 1/3 per panel of Ceramic Liquid Wax and you'll have great coverage. Also, as Dan mentioned, leave your vehicle sitting in the garage overnight and it will smell great afterwards.

Welcome to the Forum.

Hi Jack, Welcome to the Forum. When it comes to campers, motorhomes and travels there are a few things to consider. First and foremost is preparation and maintenance that it takes for any large piece of equipment, don't underestimate the effort. Do you have a place to get it out of the weather for a few days for the prep and curing? While it doesn't have to be fully enclosed, you'll want to make sure that it is out of the sun for the duration. Next up is the volume of product that you'll need and to do it properly you'll need to plan on stripping, claying, polishing, prepping and finally coating. There are three alternatives to coating that work out very well on large vehicles. The first is Wash & Wax. This applied during the wash cycle and will doesn't require all the prep time and still looks great. If you can wash the camper every few weeks, it will keep looking good and be well projected. This also makes it a one-stop process for maintenance. The other option is to use strip wash or car shampoo followed by H20 Guard and Gloss. On white vehicles you can't beat what HGG does and how it looks. It is generally my go to product for while vehicles. The third option is to use Ceramic Liquid Wax. This wax requires less prep, lasts for many months and looks great. You can put it on outside doing small sections at a time, although I will recommend doing it the shade. If you can use the Ceramic Liquid Wax one a year, you'll be good, especially if follow up with washing it with either Wash & Coat or Wash & Wax. Just for background, the motor that I recently sold was a 30' Class C and it would take me two days to wash and wax at a minimum. Just a wash could be done in about 6 hours.

Card stock

Fresh food

Instrument landing

The Upholstery Cleaner does a great job on seat belts, just be forewarned that if it is an older vehicle, you'll need to d the entire seatbelt. Otherwise, the area you cleaned with stand out from the test of it. I like to use a soft bristle brush and a little cleaner goes a long way. You can also use a microfiber cloth that is barely damp with the cleaner and then follow up with dry microfiber.