GerryC

Rubbing alcohol. You can also find plastic razor blades that won't scratch your glass.

That is not good  I grew up in MA, and die hard Pats, Red Sox, Celtics and Bruins fan  GO BRUINS!

Not available quite yet, probably towards the end of the month

Don't forget to use it on your wheels.

Nice ride...and nice HAT. GO BRUINS.

Hanging on to the red plugs is a great idea. Put them in your pour/squirt bottles that aren't used that often, like MSS, as they create an airtight seal which helps preserves the product. I have a few older bottles of product that are going on 4 years and still perform like new. Another thing I like to do, especially during the winter, is periodically shake up some of the products that tend to separate out.

For goodness sakes, "pay it forward" man!  If you are not going to use them, there is someone in your area that you could regift them to and get them into the Adam's fold.  They would only need a PC to get started.  
Nothing wrong with the 'old' stuff either, just 'better, faster, stronger' stuff is now available.
Adam's still have the best combinations for a newbie.    

Holy crap man, that's nuts.  Who knows, you may not even like the new set-up, it's not like the old polishes were inaffective, I'm sure you've created plenty of mirrors with them, plus it's always better to have more tools in your toolbox.  
 
The Foam pads haven't changed, they are the one being used with the new polishes, why trash them?  Take a spin with MF'er pads before you get rid of foam, you may not even like using them.  Like Adam and Dylan said, they are not "better", just a different approach to cutting/polishing.  I find, up to this point, finishing with a nice soft foam pad gets better results anyway.   Just one weekend warriors opinion.

Hmm I don't drink beer so I didn't take the I.P.A. acronym into consideration when adding it to the list
 
Scotch FTW 
 
*runs*

Did a full correction on the vette 4 years ago. Stays in a garage, never gets dirty or wet. Haven't put water on it since. The paint still looks 95% the way it did when I finished polishing.
 
G8 stays outside 24/7. Sees all sorts of elements all year round. Washed weekly during the warm months. Did a full correction 3 years ago, and every spring I just go over it once with FMP and the white pad. Paint is about 90%.
 
Basically, once you do a full correction, it's how you maintain the car which will determine when you need to break out the machine again. A good coat of sealant or wax coupled with following proper washing and dusting techniques will prolong the condition of your finish.

I liked the part where he did everything wrong

I think the problem here is expecting a clear coat polish to remove paint overspray in the first place. Claying removes overspray (which is done before polishing anyway), polishing removes defects. Overspray is not a defect, it's a foreign contaminant. The fact that SSR doesn't remove paint overspray has no bearing on it's clear coat cutting ability.
 
There's no reason why the OP shouldn't be able to get results with SSR/SHR/FMP. Not saying perfect results because it's hard to tell the severity without seeing them first-hand, but to completely dismiss a product simply for not being able to do what it is not even marketed for is rather silly.

I think the problem here is expecting a clear coat polish to remove paint overspray in the first place. Claying removes overspray (which is done before polishing anyway), polishing removes defects. Overspray is not a defect, it's a foreign contaminant. The fact that SSR doesn't remove paint overspray has no bearing on it's clear coat cutting ability.
 
There's no reason why the OP shouldn't be able to get results with SSR/SHR/FMP. Not saying perfect results because it's hard to tell the severity without seeing them first-hand, but to completely dismiss a product simply for not being able to do what it is not even marketed for is rather silly.

I think the problem here is expecting a clear coat polish to remove paint overspray in the first place. Claying removes overspray (which is done before polishing anyway), polishing removes defects. Overspray is not a defect, it's a foreign contaminant. The fact that SSR doesn't remove paint overspray has no bearing on it's clear coat cutting ability.
 
There's no reason why the OP shouldn't be able to get results with SSR/SHR/FMP. Not saying perfect results because it's hard to tell the severity without seeing them first-hand, but to completely dismiss a product simply for not being able to do what it is not even marketed for is rather silly.

I think the problem here is expecting a clear coat polish to remove paint overspray in the first place. Claying removes overspray (which is done before polishing anyway), polishing removes defects. Overspray is not a defect, it's a foreign contaminant. The fact that SSR doesn't remove paint overspray has no bearing on it's clear coat cutting ability.
 
There's no reason why the OP shouldn't be able to get results with SSR/SHR/FMP. Not saying perfect results because it's hard to tell the severity without seeing them first-hand, but to completely dismiss a product simply for not being able to do what it is not even marketed for is rather silly.

I cringed more at this than during tonight's Game of Thrones 
 
Take Matt's advice in post #4

I've had pour caps split along the threads like that too, but only because I overtightened them. Call up and they will send you a replacement 
 
I've also had a WW towel edging come undone, because I used to "snap" them when they were dry to fluff them back up, and I did it too violently one time. They may also start to unravel if you catch the towel on a badge or sharp corner of the car and it pulls some of the thread. My old drying towel had quite a few loops handing out of it. Like others have said it doesn't affect the performance of the towel.

I cringed more at this than during tonight's Game of Thrones 
 
Take Matt's advice in post #4

so that Ultimate Flex Kit i "paid" for didn't "ship"

Dealer touching your paint?
 

 

The clearance swabs are definitely a steal. A 4" handle is long enough for most situations, and the only other difference really is the shape of the tip. I just grabbed some and can't wait to try them out on my air vents - up until now I've been using regular cotton swabs and swearing a lot.

The clearance swabs are definitely a steal. A 4" handle is long enough for most situations, and the only other difference really is the shape of the tip. I just grabbed some and can't wait to try them out on my air vents - up until now I've been using regular cotton swabs and swearing a lot.

AMEN TO THAT. I did the honeycomb grills with SVRT once. ONCE.

I would wash the paint-only towels like your single/double softs and WW towels separate from the dirty job ones like metal polish, utility, etc. 

What Jerry said.  I even break down more it i have heavy wax on the white towels.  I use Woolite to wash and Adams Microfiber Revitalizer to spot heavily soiled areas of the towels.  then add a few spritz of the MFR to the wash.