Ricky Bobby

I would not polish window film personally - or before you attempt it, call your local tint shop or the MANUFACTURER themselves and ask them if It is advised. They would know better than you would just guessing.

On aniline leather you really should be using Leatherique or something specific to aniline (open pore, not sealed) leathers with no urethane topcoat.
 
I would dilute the leather cleaner 3:1 as a start as well, its strong stuff.  Don't use brushes unless its a horsehair or boar's hair brush to scrub, if you can help it, just an MF towel to clean it.
 
Adams Leather Conditioner is a great product IMO and I use it on all my leather, but aniline is so rare so I'd say for the initial cleaning/conditioning, use a specific product for it, and then perhaps you can maintain it with just Adam's LC once a month.

Good idea with the Car Shampoo.  The soap should help give the Rinseless more "cling" to break up the grime.
 
You just may have found the perfect pre-soak of a hammered car when doing traditional rinseless washes as well.  Hit the car with that solution and let it dwell, rinse with a high pressure stream, then take your bottle of 1:16 diluted Rinseless, pre-soak the panel, and go into your traditional Rinseless wash method.
 
Nice!

Nice updates Dan.
 
I agree on the Venus sprayer, I don't use it on tires because the sprayer is too fine to control amount of product coming out, and it uses way too much in the realm of APC.
 
I only use my Venus with Rinseless diluted, as a pre-soak on panels when doing a rinseless wash or for loosening up bug guts and bird poop before a traditional wash.

Excellent tips and spot on for most. Americana is definitely something you apply to one or two panels at most (fender and door for example) and buff off immediately. Any more and it's tough to remove.
 
Apc and dawn work well on the applicators if reusing them with a hot rinse, but I do dedicate one type of product per applicator. For example I won't wax with an applicator i used sealant with previously.
 
Work clean, and less is more are my two tips. Nice work!

^^Agreed Mattie.
 
If you watch Garry Dean's video on Youtube he uses a Karcher with 1.2 gpm and 1600psi.  He also uses the proper MTM 14.0349 foam cannon which has the proper nozzle for lower flow washers.  2 oz of soap and the container is half full with water and he is able to foam the car twice before emptying the bottle.  The suds look great to me on the video.
 
I think 2 things are lacking when we talk about the lack of suds from a foam cannon
 
-type of MTM cannon used vs. washer used
(The MTM cannon with a higher pressure rating is more readily available and you really have to check what MTM part number you are ordering to know)
-amount of soap vs. water in the bottle
(I've noticed many are trying to get away with 1 oz of soap and filling the bottle with 32 oz of water, and hoping for shaving cream.  If you are filling the bottle with 32 oz of solution, first of all you'll have enough to foam up at least 3 times so it may be too much for one car wash, and you do need to add more soap)
 
Watch Phil @ DD's video, when he is filling up the cannon bottle he is recommending 2-4 ounces of Car Shampoo and then fill with water.  You definitely need to use that amount in the cannon to get close to the thick shaving cream foam.  Which is why I'm saying if you are only filling the bottle halfway, or 2/3 perhaps, you may be able to get away with 1-2 ounces of soap.
 

Brush your pads once every year keeps them in the clear

This friggin kicks serious tail. Borderline post of the year

It's a HUGE bang for the buck for $70 on sale.
 
I use mine for following:
-blowdrying wheels and tires after washes (so I'm able to dress tires sooner)
-blowing cracks and crevices after wash obviously
-blow drying my dog after a bath with the small extension hose sold from Metro (he loves it and it's not much louder than a hair dryer and so much better on his coat)
-blow drying rubber floor mats after they are cleaned scrubbed and rinsed
-blowing out dust and random dirt of the interior before I vacuum and wipe down (gets a ton out of the interior just open the doors and blow away!)
-blow drying engine after cleaning and rinsing
 
And that's just the beginning but that's a ton of uses and value for me for a $70 investment

Heres my .02 on rock chips -
 
Unless you never drive your car you are going to get rock chips on the front end - and a clear bra doesn't last forever.
 
I call them "mileage chips" because as you put the miles on you are bound to get some - having excellently polished paint and defect free is more important to me than worrying about a couple rock chips on the front end, every time I go to wash the car there is a new mark on the bumper, front edge of hood, etc

It's a HUGE bang for the buck for $70 on sale.
 
I use mine for following:
-blowdrying wheels and tires after washes (so I'm able to dress tires sooner)
-blowing cracks and crevices after wash obviously
-blow drying my dog after a bath with the small extension hose sold from Metro (he loves it and it's not much louder than a hair dryer and so much better on his coat)
-blow drying rubber floor mats after they are cleaned scrubbed and rinsed
-blowing out dust and random dirt of the interior before I vacuum and wipe down (gets a ton out of the interior just open the doors and blow away!)
-blow drying engine after cleaning and rinsing
 
And that's just the beginning but that's a ton of uses and value for me for a $70 investment

Your analogy is right - you'll get a ton of shine with the paint sealant - adding Buttery on top is not going to do any more for you, as you said if anything make it from a 5 to a 6 - just hit it once a month with G&G if you want to boost protection and shine and do wipedowns with Detail Spray as usual

Its fine but its not as strong as what I referenced, doesn't get as much of the gunk and grime out, and uses more product that is already expensive at $30 a gallon -
 
With the diluted 3:1 MFR mix I can literally get all the black tire ooze out of my VRT applicators and besides being discolored they are like new -
 
The ultimate test I did recently was that my toothbrush I use to clean the slides and barrels of my firearms was black from carbon and normal APC didn't really do that much, bristles were still black - a couple squirts of that 3:1 MFR mixture and it was white bristles again -
 
Try it on your fender brush, with the white bristles you'll be amazed at what comes off that brush that the APC wouldn't get -

I love the way Tire Shine smells but in the end I decided I like the look and longevity of SVRT better.   Plus I like only having to use 1 product for all the things that need dressing instead of 2.
 

M205 is probably the best all around polish on the market today - I own both and they each have their place but unless you are just looking to be OCD and have all one brand do not replace it, its a great and extremely versatile product
 
205 is fine for yearly touchups, but I would be doing short section passes as 205 is SMAT as you know and inspecting your work, and using a finishing foam pad like Adams white -
 
105 cuts more than the Orange polish and faster, the revised formula does not dust if used properly (i.e. don't overuse it) - the Orange polish is a great in between, cuts less than 105 but finishes better than 105 does in most cases - haven't used the Blue yet but assuming its on a similar cutting level but all Adam's polishes are DAT as far as I know so 2 different types of products -

I do not agree with this statement but I do appreciate your review Scott and your opinion as a professional detailer -

Agreed - my Rupes 21ES is like a precision tool compared to the Porter Cable on my shelf from 2005

Have the old brush, it's not bad but it's not my go to. The new one looks like it wouldn't be my go to either. 
 

 
That's the one I use, I know not everyone likes the same stuff and probably a lot of people love Adam's brush. But IMHO a 2nd brush similar to the pic would be SWEET! I've used about 8 different tire brushes and this one's the best and it's not even close.

When using products like Ceramic Booost and carpros reload. You must limit how much is used. If you used to much it'll be difficult to use/remove. When I've used reload in the past 1 or 2 sprays per panel is all you need. Until I get to try and use Ceramic boost I wont know if its fhe same or not. But in my experience with other products like it. Probably the same. Reload actually requires you to dilute it on darker color cars. Silica wont bond and cure as fast as a polymer/ acrylic resins will. When its cured its slicker and glossier than anything out there.

The duetto will run circles around the PC - while the chassis might have a similar style, don't forget the Duetto has a 12mm orbit vs 8mm on the PC. Much more torque as well.

I recently picked an Rupes mini to go with my 15 MkII, and it is a nice machine. I was able to get into several tight spaces, so don't be too concerned about the size of the body.  

if u try a quality polisher like the cyclo or rupes u will never use that pc again unless u have to there a world of difference just in comfort alone

Back with bravado!  

That's a good idea. And make it perfectly matte as just a spray and wipe with no dressing aspect.

They are still longer than ideal IMO - if those bristles were half the length it would give more scrubbing power -