The Guz

Coatings are not a miracle product. Wash it and report back. In general rain does not cause water spotting.

Always start with the least aggressive product. In most cases a polish will remove them. The issue that can sometimes arise with spot correcting is that spot may be darker than the rest of the panel. This is most noticeable on darker paints. So in that case polishing the entire panel would be optimal. A polish whether used by hand or machine will either degrade or remove all of the coating. Thus following up with more will be best. You probably got lucky with Essence Plus. It also depends on how it was used and what pad.

Yeah I saw the dates. The thing that was intriguing about the class is the ability to have access to the pro graphene coating. But once I found out that one has to be a licensed detailing company I kind of lost interest as some of us don't do this for a living yet have so much experience already. Seems like a good class thought. Perhaps I will still make it to one this year.

Professionals don't always get it right either. I agree that a spray coating is much easier but a coating is not that hard to use. I have been using coatings for about 15 years and the coatings of today are much easier to use. What happens is newcomers to coatings go heavy on their application and this makes it difficult to wipe off the carrier solvents and push them around rather then getting them all off the surface. The understanding of the flash times is important. Especially with the affects of temperature and humidity. I for one would not be applying a coating in 86 degree weather regardless of the humidity. Been there, done that and the experience always leads to trouble. This is where professionals have the edge due to a controlled temperature environment. Lets not forget the amount of towels needed to get the job done. Some thing two towels will be enough and this is not true. Towels become loaded with product and will eventually not pick up anything. The other thing is lighting. It is key to inspect and not with bright lighting. Diffused lighting works best for seeing high spots. Which leads me to people freaking themselves out about high spots that they end up not enjoying the process and leads them to have more high spots than anything. I used to bein the same situation when I first started playing with coatings and since then it is the least of my worries because they are an easy fix. I have seen your posts and just because your experience was not good does not mean others will have the same experience. Don't take this personally just stating what I have noticed. I find the graphene ceramic coating to be so easy to use compared to other coatings I have used. Like all coatings prep is key. Try coating white or silver paint. By far harder than applying to black.

Your plan looks solid and I agree incorporating an iron remover is a good idea. Also there is not need for a full correction. That is a misconception. Let your test spot tell you what needs to be done. Paint on new cars is already thin to begin with so no need for any unnecessary work. Also you can lightly polish PPF by machine. With regards to the coating, don't let others experiences deter you away. Take your time and have good lighting. Once you figure out your flash time its a breeze. Expect to have high spots especially if you are new to coatings as one tends to go heavier than normal. Your maintenance regiment sounds good as well. Check out this thread for maintenance tips.

I typically use a towel with a GSM rating of 300-350 when leveling coatings. I don't use those suede type towels or super plush towels. Try this and it should help with leveling. Cycle your wipe off towels every few panels. Flash times are going to be dependent on temperature and humidity so you will have to figure out that out.

You don't need anything on top of it. Save the graphene detail spray for after washes. See this post.

1. Yes you can use it on the wheels. Should? Well that is going to depend on if you want to do it or not. At a minimum the face of the wheels if you don't want to take them off. 2. After the PPF has been installed.

Just know that other dedicated trim coatings have the potential to turn white on trim. It is not just the Adams graphene coating. As I stated any coating used on trim should be leveled to avoid this potential issue.

Regardless of the coating always wipe off and level on trim to avoid issues.

@galaxyare you referring to the dark spot? It almost looks like there is still some of the mold wax release on the tires that has not been completely removed. It is stubborn to remove and may take weekly cleanings to completely remove it.

What you are experiencing is high spots. It is common especially when someone is new to applying coatings. It takes a few iterations to get used to the flash times of a coating. It is not the products fault. It is an easy fix. Polish, prep and re-coat. I have used both versions with no issues but I have been applying coatings for over a decade.

Check this video if you would like to know more about the differences. https://www.facebook.com/adamspolishes/videos/329580358720133/

Shouldn't take much to remove F11. If you want the max performance of the coating then prep and have the coating bond to the painted surface.

Always level down any coating on trim regardless of what the directions say to avoid things such as this. There is another popular coating brand that had the same issue with their trim coating. You have a couple options. A magic eraser with undiluted all purpose cleaner. The other is finding a polish that does not stain trim and use a microfiber towel or applicator. Patience when doing either method.

Yes you can

Crack it open and see if it has started to show signs of crystalizing.

It is going to depend on where and how you store it. I have had a bottle open for months and it works just fine. The wrap should be applied to bare paint to avoid the potential of it not sticking to the coated surface. So you can coat now and polish it off when you are ready to wrap. CS3 works just fine as does the iron remover. You can use those other product as well. I don't use those or own those. Once you coat wheels, you will find you don't need to be using any wheel cleaner. I only use soap and water to clean coated wheels with the occasional iron remover. It is worth looking into the other graphene products like the detail spray and the new graphene cs3. Check out this thread.

Live video on their facebook page this week. https://fb.watch/739xWoWGgS/

Apply a coating on them and they will look better longer and also much easier to clean.

I found it to do a decent job mimicking the leather scent.

It won't clog the pores if that is your concern. Also you won't need anything else on it like leather conditioner. It will repel it anyway. A simple wipe with any of the interior detailer will be sufficient.

That is correct. The only change is the color. Haven't heard anything about it staining towels.

Simple answer yes.

You could try a polish and see if that helps.