falcaineer

They just changed the formula within the last couple of weeks.  It is now purple-ish.

So, I just received my bottle (2 actually, one to use and one to save) and I guess its come full circle. Pictured is my 12 year old unused original bottle of Adams cherry car shampoo !
Same scent although not as strong being old. Kinda cool having both or I'm just getting old. LOL
 
 

Hi Chris,
According to manuals that came with the SK mini and SK 15, they are 500 watt with a maximum of 750
My two pressure washers, one is 1,400 and the other is 1,600
My 2.5 gallon shop vac is 1,400, the 1 gallon is 700
 
The Pro Series pressure washer on the Adam's site is 1,800 according to the specs online:
800 PSI, 120V/60Hz -15 Amp, 1800 Watts Power Supply, and over 2 GPM
 
The standard pressure washer according to a 3rd party site is 1,600, but the information is supposed to be in your manual as part of the safety instructions, which is where you can find the info for nearly all electronics.  I will recommend looking in the manuals for all the equipment to be sure that the one you have is correct for the version you own.

Hi Chris,
It comes down to the watts that you will need for the largest item that you are going to run.   I've found that the vacuum takes more than the pressure washer, but neither of mine pull over 1500 watts, so I'm good with a 2000 watt generator.  Check the specifications on what you plan on running, pick the maximum item and go 500 watts above that.  I'd be surprised if a 2000 watt portable Honda wouldn't be enough, unless you are going to run an Air Cannon which according to what is online is 2500 watts itself.
 
I like the Honda for being light weight, fuel efficient and quiet.  They are not the cheapest out there, but tend to live forever with standard maintenance.

Absolutely!

So I had time, and the weather would be nice for more than 1 day. I washed the truck with foam and seal. 
 
It sure was easier and faster.
Foam produced was thick, it clung well, had good lubricity. I was able to foam my crew cab pick up with the 1 bottle. 
Seal went just as smooth but I ran out with one truck bed side left. Looking back I could have moved faster, and changed my application movements. I did have to use 2 of the drying towels. And I only grabbed the second after doing the whole truck. The last 1/4 part wasn’t fully dry and was just “streaky wetness”. It was just moving water around and not picking it up. So I grabbed the second towel and finished it off. 
 
Truck looks good and feels good. It doesn’t feel as smooth as it does after I apply HGG, but it’s close. But feel doesn’t matter, it’s how it performs. Time will tell with part. 
 
I went and ordered another combo of it. It definitely saved time. 
 
 

Looks awesome! Another incredible combo is Patriot + BG. Enjoy the show!!

As Mc2Hill recommended thought I'd give the Stingray alittle love using Brilliant Glaze then Americana. When I did the Biscayne it had been a few weeks in-between the BG & AMERICANA. Today I went back to back. I did remove the BG before applying the Americana. Turned out very nice. 
Just did a waterless wash on her first as she wasn't really dirty, still have to do the wheels but almost ready for Corvette Expo in Pigeon Forge mid March.

Compound and Polish will not remove orange peel, you're looking at sanding.

The insulation that had been going up north, which actually made sense, starting arriving in the south and mine was delivered on Saturday.   I've been spending some time in the garage getting it installed, I even took a half day today since it was about 80 outside and worked in the garage.   The forklift operator was rather surprised to find a residential garage that he could drive in.  His forklift was 8 foot 6 inches and he cleared the door by 6 inches - at least I didn't have to move two pallets inside by myself.
 
Once I get all the insulation installed, gaps filled and seams taped, then the furring strips will go up and I can cry when I go to purchase the plywood.  I keep hoping that the price will go down some more, but that seems unlikely at this point.
 
There is still no word on when the correct door rails are going to arrive.  The door was supposed to follow the roof line and what arrived with the door were standard rails.  At least the company was able to install the door and they know they are not getting paid until the correct rails are installed.  I guess that is the one benefit of purchasing the door from the company the also manufactures it.    I absolutely love the door opener, it is so quiet and being mounted on the wall by the door is is completely out of the way.   The upper left corner of the garage door is the opener, the black box.
 
I think I finally have my ceiling designed with a way that will allow for direct or indirect lighting based on what we are doing with vehicles or just hanging out having a glass of wine. Here are a couple of pictures with the recent progress 

Best to go by feel, not time. When a plush towel very lightly dragged across the surface feels slick, it's too soon. When it's tacky and grabs the towel, that's when it's time. It will probably be a fine line and change quickly, so check often. Remove in the same order as applied.
 
To clarify, lower temp and humidity generally means you can leave it on longer.

Agreed, it was likely left on too long, and can happen/be seen more often where the application lines overlap. Streaks can also be seen more easily on black. Try some Brilliant Glaze on those areas - yes, even now - and let us know. You may need to end up polishing those areas, but best to start less aggressive.

Consider using iron Remover on the painted surfaces, and after you polish, do a thorough wipedown again with Surface Prep. Thoroughly clean any trim with TRC to get it looking great and ready for coating. Other than that, you're well on your way!
 
Don't worry about the high spots, they can be fixed and relatively easily. One way to try and make sure you catch them early is to coat a portion of the car, say 1/4 of it, then pull it into the sun and check. Pull it back in the garage and repeat the process. That way you aren't letting them sit for long making correction even easier. And those you do miss will just need a little more effort. Brilliant Glaze is your friend!

Not sure an official fix has been released, but as long as you level it on the trim as explained above, and I recommend in about half the time as paint, you'll be fine. 

Don't be afraid of it. It's super easy to use, and as long as you level any applied on trim, and I recommend in about half the time as you do on paint, you'll be fine. It's an awesome coating and you'll love the results.

"...then Graphene Coating and no wiping..."
 
There's your issue. Graphene Ceramic Coating, once applied to trim, has to be leveled or it will cure looking like it does now - pictures would help us all see better what you experienced.
 
Unfortunately, I don't know how to correct it, but maybe others on here have some thoughts. @Chris@Adams @Dan@Adams
 
Here's the excerpt from the Plastic Trim and Headlights section of instructions on the website (instructions are the same for the Spray version, even though not explicitly outlined):
 
3. Once the recently applied product has penetrated, begin leveling the coating, applying minimal pressure to the towel in the process. Wipe down in a similar cross hatch pattern as applied, switching/flipping the towel periodically to use a new face to fully level the coating.

Yes, you can use non-graphene, silica-infused products like those you mentioned, as well as CS3 and others. The Graphene Ceramic (Spray) Coating is a ceramic coating at its core, so it won't hurt them. That said, they are slightly different and using toppers that aren't optimized for the Graphene coatings might not give quite the same amount of boost than those that are.

Here ya go.
 
Thanks Chris
 
Rich

Oxidation will usually clean up easier than salt water caused deterioration.  Do a test spot with the least aggressive correction and then go up from there.

Gel coats typically take more effort to correct than auto paint. Compound and Polish are your best bet, of course with a machine polisher, and work in smaller sections. It will be a workout! 

Here's a great writeup from @Dan@Adams on the Graphene Ceramic Coating process. Interiors are a little more subjective, recommend you check out the Interior forum for more info.
 
 
 
We also have professional level classes called the Shine Academy. They focus on paint correction, Graphene Ceramic Coatings, business discussions and more. Completion opens the door to our Professional Grade Graphene Ceramic Coating. Dan and I are two of the instructors so can answer any questions. Here's a link with more info.
 
https://adamspolishes.com/pages/shine-academy
 
 

That looks awesome Ray!! I'm jealous 🙂

That looks awesome Ray!! I'm jealous 🙂

The latest update is that the garage has passed the final building inspection and I have the overhead door after 4 months of waiting.  Now I can get started on the interior with the insulation and walls.   I'm still undecided if I'm going to use a contractor for the insulation or do it myself, at least now I can get a few contractors out to take a look and give me estimates.  The insulation will be a minimum of R-10 and will be either foam board or spray in.  
 
 
We also had the gutters installed which are Leafguard and the wife decided to have new gutters on the entire house at the same time.  She also had all the soffits wrapped in metal to match the trim on the garage.  I have to admit it came out looking good, although it might take a while for my wallet to recover.  Leafguard asked permission to use a garage picture in their marketing since they blended so well.  They did make it easy for me to approve the usage of the images. 
 
At least now that I have a door I'll be able to start doing detailing in my garage instead of the wife's.

Polishing with One Step will remove it pretty easily. You can check water behavior on areas polished vs not, but know that water will bead on completely clean and polished clear coat, too. In the end, by following routine processes like you do were doing normal paint correction, it should remove it all.
 
Note, the UV tracer isn't a wear indicator but it might help some here, too.