Norton

3 hours ago, Jjm1995 said:

I have a 2012 Camaro that has pretty good paint, but it's not completely perfect. There is a chip here and there, small blemishes. I've completely polished all the swirls and scratches out, and it looks damn fine. Would it be worth using the ceramic spray coating on my car, or does the paint need to be 100% flawless?

 

I agree with @Rich - your paint need not be "perfect" for whatever LSP you choose to use.  The important thing is that you're happy with the way it looks and that the surface is clean/prepped for LSP application, so it bonds properly.  Whatever you choose - Ceramic Spray, Graphene Spray, Sealant, or Wax - should enhance shine, provide some protection for the (corrected) paint, and simplify cleaning.

22 hours ago, ChasKSC said:

Just used the grey microfiber wash mitt - NOT the white & black one - the one with more thicker fibers; 

 

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-grey-microfiber-wash-mitt

 

Anywhoo, I used two 5 gallon buckets filled just halfway with the grit guards. The mitt really soaks up the water, to the point where halfway thru my wash, the buckets were almost empty. They are new buckets, no leaks and I was careful. Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions?

Not sure I understand the "problem."  I suggest adding more water to the buckets.

4 hours ago, BRZN said:

Any protection I've applied to my vehicles exhaust tips seems to burn off rather quickly due to the exhaust temp: Glaze, Wax, Sealants, and Ceramics. The Ceramic coatings do tend to last longest. The key to keeping them looking new is to clean them every time you wash the vehicle. I'll use All Purpose Cleaner, Eco All Purpose Cleaner, or Tire & Rubber Cleaner with a Wheel Woolie, or cheap four finger microfiber mesh mitt. After the vehicle's dry I'll wipe the outside and inside of the tips with Metal Polish #2. If it's a customers vehicle and the tips have been neglected I'll use 0000 Steel Wool with the detergents listed above or Glass Cleaner, or WD-40 as the lubricant.

  Aside from Eco All Purpose Cleaner, of which I'm not a fan, this mirrors my experience.

I haven't found anything that works better than cleaning, polishing, and ceramic coating them.  They still get dirty, but cleanup is quicker and easier.

22 hours ago, Trap said:

Thanks for all of the replies. I do have the Adams waterless wash (will probably use on my jeep and other uses), but I am wanting something that you can do a quick detail with after it has sat in the garage for a week or so. That would be after having done a real good cleaning.

Always feels better when you head out for a drive with it super clean.

Given this clarification of your intended application, I recommend CS3 or Ceramic Waterless.  Graphene Detail Spray and Ceramic Boost are less-than-optimal for this use.

22 hours ago, falcaineer said:

Graphene Detail Spray or CS3!

Agree with CS3, but don't think Graphene Detail Spray is a good option for the clarified application... "Unlike Adam's CS3, Graphene Detail Spray™ is designed to work best on a clean, freshly washed surface and is not intended to act as a type of waterless wash."  

I agree with Michael's assessment, that Wheel Cleaner is not required as often with coated wheels.  (I rely on a spray bottle of dilluted Car Shampoo most of the time.)  That said, I've had no problems using it AS DIRECTED on multiple sets of ceramic coated wheels.  The answer to your question is, therefore, you CAN use it as needed. 

In addition to what Rich said and based on the title of this thread, I'd offer that I'm not a fan of original Detail Spray on top of ceramic. In my experience, it tends to leave a residue and streaks.  I get better resutls with something designed for use with ceramic like Graphene Detail Spray, Ceramic Boost, CS3, etc.

On 1/31/2021 at 4:58 AM, BRZN said:

If it's the self healing type of Clear Bra, heat will remove the scratches: sun, heat gun, hair dryer. As for polishing, I'd recommend Adam's Polish using his White Foam Pad with your machine running at speed 2 or 3. You'll be more cleaning the bra than actually polishing it. Finish with Brilliant Glaze then Wax or apply Sealant overtop.

13 hours ago, Rich said:

Clear bra is a great product, but not meant to last forever.  Depending on how badly scratched and/or discolored it is, you might do better to find a qualified company to replace it.  But Dave gave you some real good advice. 

Dave and Rich are spot-on.  As usual, stick with the least aggressive approach that yields the result you want. 

I haven't seen it produced in years but, if you can find it, Adam's Clear Polish (designed and formulated for vinyl wraps and PPF) works well.

I've never had any problems polishing PPF, but I recommend sticking with the least aggressive approach that yields the result you want.  I haven't seen it produced in years but, if you can find it, Adam's Clear Polish (designed and formulated for vinyl wraps and PPF) works well.

7 hours ago, 07stanggt said:

I was wondering where the idea to carry oil, tranny fluid, came from, or more important, why? Being a huge fan of Adams products for many many years now, why this direction for the company. I know everyone needs to diversify. I remember when Adams hangers, socks, mugs etc came out, but was wondering when the Adams Shaving Kit, tooth brush and tooth paste set, office supplies, microwave oven, will be coming out ? I prefer a 16 oz bottle of convertible top cleaner, chrome polish or other detailing products that you don't have which I have to buy elsewhere, to oil for my car. I prefer Amasoil if it matters. This is by NO means meant to take anything away from Adams other awesome products, nor am I going to switch brands, but please stick with the products that got you guys where you are today, and focus on NEW DETAILING products you don't have out now and or things that make my car stay at its best for detailing, I don't need another flannel or beanie. Love Adams products, best customer service ever, nothing is going to change my mind about your detailing products, but.

FYI, if you come out with a shaving kit, I'll take one LOL !!

I agree, Jimmy!  I'm a big fan of Adam's and the detailing products for which he and his company are known - have been for many years.  Understand the desire to grow, but not when it comes with diversification into (largely) unrelated areas/products.  (I get that detailing products and lubricants are both used on/in motor vehicles, but...)  IMO, this results in brand dilution.  There was a time when I proudly used nearly every product Adam's sold, but those days are long gone.  I can't keep-up with the constant flow of new/different stuff, especially when it's not for detailing.  I'm loyal to Adam's for my detailing needs and I like having autographed Adam's sign in my Man Cave, but I'm comfortable with Amsoil for my automotive lubrication needs. 🍻

Thanks, Dan!

Will I have to remove the wax before applying the Graphene Spray Coating?

Yes.  Coatings bond best to prepped (i.e., "naked") paint.

Being nervous about applying ceramic, which is better or rather which product lasts longer, Adams wax or the Graphene?

Graphene

What are the steps I would need to take if were to apply the Graphene on a vehicle that had Buttery Wax applied about a month ago?

Strip Wash and Surface Prep

Do you have to use the Ceramic Coating first before you apply the Graphene Spray Coating?

No. Graphene is applied directly to the paint.

Swirl marks can usually be polished out.  DA/Orbital polisher is the way to go. Adam's has everything you need at https://adamspolishes.com/collections/polishing-paint-correction-detailing, along with tutorial videos at https://www.youtube.com/user/Adamspolishes/videos, including one appropriate for your circumstance...

Just now, falcaineer said:

Steve @Norton thanks for the video, I haven't seen that one before.

Happy to help, Chris! It's an "oldie," dating back to the Shine Doc days, but remains very useful.  (You saw my GT500's matte stripes before ceramic, so you know it works too.)

44 minutes ago, brihy1 said:

Hey norton,thanks for the info.It worked very well.I cleaned with waterless wash-hand polished-vrt-matte detailer-adams graphing spray coating.Its no perfect but looks way better than it did and I like it.tanks everyone for the help and replies.awesome forum.heres some pics.dont mind the big pine tree in background

Nicely done!  That looks GREAT! 

Welcome, OP! 

I recommend following the advice in this video.  I also found Adam's Matte Detailer useful before I ceramic coated my whole car, including the matte stripes.  (Yes, matte vinyl looks great even when ceramic coated.)  The products I found most useful were Brilliant Glaze (to clean), light polish (if required), VRT (to protect), and Matte Detailer (to "level" the VRT).

Note that matte vinyl CAN be LIGHTLY polished without making it glossy.  I did so a number of times, as described in the video, relying on nothing more aggressive than (what used to be called Fine Machine or Finishing) Polish on a Blue Hand Applicator or White (machine) Pad.  Doing so helped remove minor imperfections.  Obviously, YMMV.

Cleaning the Engine Bay

On 9/20/2020 at 7:58 AM, Buster said:

Where are the high contact angle touted by applying the Graphene Ceramic Coating? Perhaps the coating does have interact well with dust and smoke particulates.

I agree that doesn't look "right" for coated performance and, in my experience, your supposition is spot-on - even coated vehicles don't bead as well when covered with contaminants.

On 9/22/2020 at 7:11 AM, Rich said:

...it's all about the pre work to get the best results.  

 Surface prep is crticial to getting good results - probably more important than the actual coating used.

On 9/22/2020 at 7:20 AM, Buster said:

I have applied the Graphene Ceramic coating. The three photos show after. Prep was wash, clay pad, polish with M205. Graphene was applied over a two day span. The coating has been on for about a month. I was using Meguiars Gold class soap in foam cannon. I then switched to Griots Garage brilliant shine soap in foam cannon. The last wash, I tried to use the Graphene boost. The last week and a half, smoke covered Spokane. I am unsure if the smoke, ash dust affected the Graphene ability to shed rain water. 

On 9/22/2020 at 7:33 AM, Buster said:

I also used a degreaser and apc plus the panel wipe to ensure no protection was evident on the clear coat. I applied the coating in the morning both days. My truck was in a three sided covering. I did not drive my truck during the application and curing period. 

22 hours ago, Buster said:

Yes Sir, panel wipe was the final step before applying the coating. As for soap, what do you recommend for washing a Graphene coating?

Your process looks good though, as others said, those shampoos aren't the best for simply cleaning or "stripping" the vehicle.  For those functions, I rely on Adam's Car Shampoo and Adam's Strip Wash or a little Dawn Dish Liquid, respectively.  (If using Dawn, do so sparingly and only when you're re-correcting and re-coating.  Don't use it in the sun and don't let it linger/dry on the vehicle.) FWIW, you probably don't need to use "degreaser and apc plus the panel wipe."  I use Adam's Surface Prep or diluted isopropyl alcohol to wipe down following correction. I use Adam's Ultra Foam to clean/wash coated vehicles, blow dry them, and Adam's Ceramic Boost (or a competitor's Quick Detailer) as the final drying step. (I intend to try Adam's Graphene Detail Spray for this, but have not done so yet.)  FWIW, here are some pics of my truck, coated with Adam's (original) Ceramic Spray Coating...

23 hours ago, The Guz said:

Those two car soaps are loaded with gloss enhancers that can clog up any coating.  Gold Class can make it seem like the coating has failed.  The other issue is that the coating is probably so clogged from all of the fall out that it may need a chemical decon to revive it.  The other potential thing are the oils from M205 not being completely removed.  Did you do a panel wipe after the polishing step?

  Other shampoos (see above and below) work better for maintaining a coated vehicle.  Repeating myself, but surface prep is crticial to getting good results.

18 hours ago, falcaineer said:

 

Any of our car shampoos will worik, with Wash & Wax (actually silica based, not carnauba), Ultra Foam (minor protection added) or Wash & Coat best designed to rejuvenate and maintain the coating.

 

 

 Great info here!

On 9/13/2020 at 1:25 PM, Rich said:

They did.  But it wasn't the same and didn't last long.  I like the vent sticks better than having something hanging in my cars.  

Interesting.  I've been a steady customer for many years and don't recall anything leather scented except the conditioner itself and air freshener "disks."  Like you, however, I don't like hanging stuff like that in my cars.  The leather scented odor neutralizer must have been very short-lived.

Ironically, there's another company that offers a "Leather Scented Air Freshener and Odor Eliminator." It may not be identical to Adam's Leather Conditioner smell, but it's close enough in absence of a comparable Adam's product.

16 hours ago, Rich said:

My favorite scent of all time was the original Leather Conditioner.  It smelled like brand new car leather.  Every time I'd open the door it smelled like a new car.  

+1. 

While they've offered Air Fresheners in this scent, I'm still waiting for the Odor Neutralizer version.

On 8/25/2020 at 8:21 PM, falcaineer said:

You can coat matte stripes, it won't make them glossy but it will darken them, making them a bit richer in color. Heads up, when you apply it it will look glossy at first...don't worry, they won't be once it cures. Be sure you get an even layer applying it just like the paint in a crosshatch pattern, and remove it sooner than you would on the paint to make sure the residue will come off completely. 

Nice GS, OP!

@falcaineer is spot-on.  That's exactly what happened with the matte black stripes on my Shelby. I remain pleased enough with the result over two years later that I immediately coated my C7Z when I got it. These aren't the best shots/angles of the Shelby, but they highlight the stripes...

No matte stripes here, but the CBF stinger is coated and looks great.

8 minutes ago, Rich said:

Well that's a shame for those who don't have machines then.  Not everyone does.  That should be addressed by Adam's because those people will look at other company's products for something they CAN use.   So what you're saying basically is if you can't machine polish your car don't buy the Graphene or Ceramic coating?  That's a bitter pill to swallow for some guys who want the best stuff for their rides.

Neither I nor Adam's said you CAN'T use their coatings without machine polishing.  It is, however, axiomatic that the appearance and longevity of a coating are directly related to the quality of preparation. Hand polishing will never match what's possible with machine. If I'm going to spend the time and money to install a multi-year coating, I want the BEST possible paint condition sealed-in underneath it.  That means a (multi-stage) machine polish.

What I said was...

On 8/1/2020 at 4:40 PM, Norton said:

...for best results, you should wash, clay, machine polish, wipe down, and then coat.  

 

Whether you wax, seal, or coat, surface prep is everything.  You'll never get the best result with hand polish.

I stand by my comments.

22 hours ago, Rich said:

If you don't have a machine, hand polish will be just fine.  

With all due respect, I disagree. So does Adam's Facebook account where they posted "Preparation is key when applying Graphene Ceramic Coating™. With the proper steps to prep your surface you can get 7+ years of protection..." earlier this evening.

I guarantee "proper steps to prep your surface" don't include hand polish.

20 minutes ago, BlackScat392 said:

So I should wash, use Adams Hand Polish, spray prep then the ceramic spray?

You can do that but, for best results, you should wash, clay, machine polish, wipe down, and then coat.  

Whether you wax, seal, or coat, surface prep is everything.  You'll never get the best result with hand polish.

Ceramic offers the best protection and longevity.  If you're really against that, @falcaineer suggests some other viable options.  In my experience, however, Paint Sealant provides good protection and longevity that minimize the need to reapply throughout winter months.