Norton

Welcome to the forums, @CyanBurrito!

All of my vehicles are ceramic coated.  The fun cars were done professionally and I did my daily.  There's no hard & fast answer about how long a coating lasts.  It's dependent on host of factors including surface prep before install, the coating used, storage & driving condtions, and maintenance regimen.  Just because a coating is rated to last up to "one year" or up to "seven years" doesn't mean it will.  Neither does it mean it's "gone" at that time.  It is, therefore, appropriate to continuously evaluate when re-application is required.  When it's not, you still need to maintain the coating with periodic use of things like Adam's SiO2-Infused product line.

At some point, you'll determine simple maintenance no longer produces the shine and beading a coating should.  That's when you re-coat.  Notably, however, you should not simply re-apply the coating.  To be effective, you need to properly prep the surface (again).  Skipping that process will likely produce less-than-satisfactory results and/or a coating life well-below what it's rated.

6 hours ago, falcaineer said:

Yes, but you may find you will not need it as much or as often. Ceramic coating generally makes surfaces easier to clean so soap and water might be all you need.

My wheels and brake calipers, all of which are coated, usually clean-up nicely with whatever I'm using to wash the entire car (i.e., shampoo).

6 hours ago, falcaineer said:

...you may find it won't be as necessary. 

Shortly after ceramic coating my black-on-black '13 GT500 a couple of years ago, I participated in a local car show. Without knowing it, I was staged downwind from a maple tree that was weeping sap into the steady breeze. By the time I figured out what was going on, hours in the bright summer sun had passed, baking the misted sap onto the entire car. Figuring I'd have to clay, correct, and re-coat the car, I began by washing it (2-buckets, Adam's Car Shampoo, and an Adam's Wash Pad).  Much to my surprise (and elation) the baked-on sap came off with a simple, standard wash - the car was as smooth and shiny as it was right after coating! I'm relatively certain things would have been much different with wax and even sealant as LSP.  Everything we drive is now ceramic coated. 

21 hours ago, tiCreativeMedia said:

I just got a Jeep sport. My parking spot gets alot of sun and I know the fenders can fade. Is there a product that I can apply to keep it in good shape? I'm not looking for anything that makes it excessively glossy-just want to keep it from fading.

 

Welcome!

As @falcaineer said, there are several options available.  My go to is VRT.  If it goes on shinier than you want, hit it with a little Matte Detailer.  Both work well for your stated purpose, but they are temporary and require periodic reapplication. 

On 3/9/2022 at 2:24 PM, Red C8 said:

I had my car professionally ceramic coated about a month ago.  I never drive this car in the rain and it is kept in a garage.  I clean off the front end with instant detailer almost every time I drive it.  Today I bought Ceramic Boost and H2O Guard and Gloss.  Which one should I use first?  How long should I wait before using the other product?  Hours, days, weeks?  How often should I use Ceramic Boost? 

Welcome! 

Three of my vehicles are professionally coated and I did the fourth with Adam's Graphene.  Ceramic Boost works well on all of them, but YMMV with other manufacturer's coatings, so you should definitely test them in inconcpicous locations before applying broadly. 

That said, I recommend against H2OGG on coated surfaces.  It's a good product for uncoated vehicles but, IMO, it's a step down from any ceramic coating with which I'm familiar.

2 hours ago, falcaineer said:

Correcting Polish is available through the Pro Line, here's the form to apply. The line is for use in shops and generally offers larger sizes than retail, as well as some exclusives.

 

https://form.jotform.com/91826904233155

This is good to know - thanks, @falcaineer!

2 hours ago, Captain Slow said:

^ Mmmmmmmmm, there’s that beautiful blue Malibu again. 😁

A "Malibu" - yeah that's it.  Now, let's race for pink slips... LOL! 😂

1 hour ago, Trap said:

You know Steve I'm really liking the Shelby, but the blue on the Vet sure does pop. 😃

Thanks!  My fun cars have all been black, until the C7Z.  Its body lines are better accented by lighter colors, like Elkhart Lake Blue Metallic. 🍻

ELBM isn't marketed as a color shifting paint, but it shows some color shift when the sun hits it at oblique angles, as it does on late afternoons in the summer.

On 11/24/2021 at 10:50 PM, Luisito26 said:

So what should I apply for extra protection i have H2O Guard N Gloss or buttery wax I have all Adam’s products I just want extra protection on my ceramic spray coating….. What do you recommend?

IMO, ceramics don't really need "extra protection."  Short of PPF, they're probably the best protection you can apply.  If they're good quality and properly applied, almost nothing should "stick" to them.  Ceramic coating can (and should), however, be "boosted" by products designed to complement them. Adam's Graphene and SiO2-Infused lines are great places to start. 

Here are a couple of examples of the shine (and protection) ceramic provides...

While you CAN apply paint sealant on top of ceramic, you shouldn't.  It won't bond properly and there's no good reason to do so. 

16 hours ago, Mantis said:

I have VRT , Tire Shine and Graphene Tire Dressing. I actually like VRT and Tires Shine currently more then Graphene Tire dressing. They are all very good products and I'm not seeing the benefits of Graphene Tire dressing yet. We just got it several weeks ago and only applied it to 2 cars so far.  It's nice but if your looking to get into Adam's, I'd say Start at VRT. It's excellent goes on very nice satin finish and doesn't sling. 

1 hour ago, exlr8rvette said:

PC2474

That may be part of your problem with machine polishing.  The PC is a great entry-level unit, but it's harsh on the hands and arms, and it's a bit bulky.  As @GXPaycheck said, newer DA polishers, including those offered by Adam's, are much nicer to use and more versatile.  

"The most bang for the buck" on just about any car, including a Shark Gray C7, is found in proper cleaning, correction, and ceramic coating.  My C7Z is Elkhart Lake Blue Metallic, rather than Shark Gray, but the shine shown here was accomplished with all of the above.  Limiting yourself to "hand polishing only" limits the shine you'll achieve, increases the level of effort to maintain it, and forces you to repeat the "hand polishing" process more frequently.  YMMV, but that spells low ROI to me.

Ceramics are designed to bond to washed, clayed, and polished paint.  Moreover, they don't require additional top-coats.  Apply your Ceramic Graphene Spray Coating.  Skip the glaze, sealant, and wax.  Enjoy a beverage of your choice in the time saved. 🍻

2 hours ago, clg82 said:

I don't believe your thread will get enough attention. But this seems to be the sentiment amongst most people using the new stuff. BRING BACK THE OLD!!! I'm on the last couple of bottles as well and after reading some of the reviews, I may look elsewhere to replace these. Not sure why they took a step backwards.

It's not my thread, but I agree with your sentiment.

4 hours ago, Islander said:

Wow man....nice F-150!!

Everything Jimmy has is nice! 

Ask him to post photos of his Shelby, that he wet-sanded himself. 👍👍

2 hours ago, Trap said:

Dang you guys are scaring me. I just ordered a Graphene coating kit to do my new vehicle. Have to say the videos do not make it look all that difficult. Now I'm not sure I want to tackle that job. Did order the complete kit with the light.

Should add that I will be anal about prepping the car first.

 

Someone else's operator error should not scare you.  Take your time, follow the instructions, and you'll be fine.

55 minutes ago, Rich said:

Correct prep is 3/4 of the job if you want it done right and to get the best results. 

Is your car ceramic-coated?  If so, try washing it.  (This worked perfectly on my ceramic-coated black Shelby after having maple sap misted onto it from a nearby tree weeping it into a steady breeze in thehot August sun.  The ease with which it came off made me a ceramic believer.)

If not, I recommend TAR and clay, as necessary.

On 6/29/2021 at 7:58 AM, RacerX said:

Limited supply and limited editions are done on purpose in order to create demand, get even more people to pay attention to sales, etc.

Which is one of the reasons I pay no attention to swag.  I'm here for the detailing products and long for the good old days when that's about all that was sold by Adam's.

1 hour ago, aurik said:

The topic says it all -- what do you recommend I use on exterior vinyl?  I just installed a hard-rolling tonneau cover on my Raptor (Bakflip Revolver X4s), it's vinyl-covered aluminum, and I want to find something to protect it with to keep it supple and protect it from the harsh UV we get here in Colorado.

VRT is my product of choice.  I've used it to improve the appearance and protect my vehicles' Vinyl, Rubber, and Trim, along with my hot tub covers, for a decade.

Graphene Tire Dressing is another option.  In my experience, however, it looks and works better on tires than vinyl.

8 hours ago, galaxy said:

If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times...Please please please...bring back the Finishing Polish (white) and the Correction Polish (orange).  The new products DO NOT replace these.  They are not better.  

FWIW, @falcaineer, I agree.  Everything is ceramic coated, so I'm not polishing as often, but I do miss the orange and white combo of Correcting and Finishing Polish.

17 hours ago, AlucardoQ50 said:

Can I use the Graphene ceramic spray on a vinyl wrapped vehicle? 

Ceramic works well over vinyl, including matte.  While matte picks-up a little gloss, everything picks-up a LOT more gloss, so it works.  Here are a couple shots of my Shelby, which has matte black stripes over gloss black paint, after ceramic coating everything...

15 minutes ago, The Guz said:

Wipe down any trim to level it out and you will be fine.  

FWIW, I coated my truck (including trim pieces) months ago and it still looks great.  Prep the surfaces properly (as it sounds like you have), apply the product as directed (without over-applying), level as needed, and buff to great shine.  Maintain with Graphene Detail Spray.  Post some pics when you're done.

I remain interested, but weather look less than optimal, again. 😕

3 hours ago, Rich said:

I use one of those "balls" that goes on the end of the drill and Metal Polish to do my tips on both cars.  Works for me.

I, similarly, use one of those "cones" that goes on the end of a drill, along with metal polish. 

Be nice if Adam's offered some of those "balls" and/or "cones" for this...

1 hour ago, ChasKSC said:

Today in celebration of the first day of spring, I did a full detail on my car. I cleaned the exhaust with APC and the wheel woolie as described in the YouTube video. I bought it from the dealership back in the fall and it's a new to me sedan. My issue is, I only saw some slight change and not at all like the drastic change in the video. Any tips on what might work? 

 

More importantly, as in the video, I did rinse off the exhaust tip. I didn't shove the hose into the pipe, but did run water two or three inches inside the pipe, and it was directly from the hose, not the pressure nozzle. The car was on a flat surface. The water barely ran out. It's not sitting in the pipe from what I can tell. After reading online I'm concerned it ran deeper into the exhaust and might damage the engine. I didn't drive the car after, and it'll sit overnight. Is that a real concern or am I just being paranoid lol. 

In my experience, exhaust tips need a bit more "elbow grease" than you get with a woolie and APC.  I've gotten better results hand polishing with Metal Polish and Edgeless Utility Towels.  For heavily-soiled/stained tips, quicker and easier results are possible with mechanical solutions that, unfortunately, Adam's doesn't offer.  

I wouldn't worry too much about water in the exhaust, as long as we're not talking about a lot of it.  One of the ingredients of exhaust itself is water, albeit vaporized water.  Moreover, the exhaust sits lower than the engine, so engine damage is unlikely.  All of that said, I recommend either inclining the car with the tailend down when rinsing the exhaust, or taking it for a drive when you're done.