bosco1

Well, I owned a Monterey Red Metallic C6 Corvette for over 10 years and finally decided it was time to upgrade.  I picked up a 2015 Velocity Yellow loaded C7.  The car had been owned previously by someone that looked at it as just a way to get from point A to B.  So of course, it needed a full-on detail.  Really for the last step later today of applying the Graphene Ceramic Spray.  Here are a few pictures of my C6 and now the C7.
I started with a full wash with strip wax, followed by complete claying then correction polish followed by finish polish.
 
 

This was a little project I began last fall when I pulled these wheels off in order to swap my winter set on...for the winter we never really had here in Northern Indiana.
 
It ended up being a pretty tedious process and overall, I spent about 10-12 hours total to get them from the factory finish to the polished finish that you'll see in the pictures.
 
The process I used was as follows:
 
I began with aircraft stripper applied with a paint brush. The first coat of stripper was blasted off with the fire hose nozzle opened all the way up. That was enough to get the majority of the clear coat off.
 
I then used a different kind of sprayable stripper and applied another full coat of that. Agitated with a VRT block sponge, then sprayed off with the hose. That got 99% of the clear off, and I just spot treated any left-over stubborn areas with the sprayable stripper and some #0000 steel wool.
 
Once all the clear was gone, it was time to polish. I used an un-named red ball on a cordless drill with MP #1 for the majority of the heavy lifting. I did 1 wheel with MP #1 by hand and it nearly killed me, so that's why I switched to the ball.
 
After everything has been hit with MP #1, I started with MP #2 and a blue MF applicator. This step made a HUGE difference! They looked nice after MP #1, but they really popped after #2 did it's work!
 
After the MP combo was done, I did a quick IPA wipe down to remove and left over polishing residue, then applied two coats of QS with an Americana applicator. I also put one coat of QS on the barrels of the wheels, but didn't do any polishing on them. Followed that with a coat of Americana and some VRT on the tires. On to the pictures....
 
Before:
 

 
In progress:
 

 
Bottom two spokes are polished here:
 

 
Here's a pretty good illustration of what the Adam's Metal Polish combo is capable of. Bottom three spokes are finished and you can see the half-finished, half-not line at the 9 o'clock position:
 

 
Finished!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Never heard of this till now, so I did some reading up on it. Sounds interesting......and expensive.  But sounds safe and effective.  Let us know how the process went and if you're happy with the results when (if) you get it done.

About 2 years ago my work had a demo done in our facility to show off the dry ice cleaning. At the time is was very new and required industrial air supply to make the machine work. It was fun to watch and definitely got the job done. Now there are consumer-grade machines that will run on a regular air compressor. The next step would be to find a supplier of quality, ground up dry ice. 

I have never once clayed a coating and had no need to clay.  Adams seems to be the only one to recommend it.  There is always that risk of marring especially on soft paints.  
 
A chemical decon and 3 pH wash always works for me to keep a coating performing strong.  

It won't strip ceramic.  From my experience it does not strip a wax or sealant unless it is very old.  

With the 6.5 for the SUV's, I'd have to recommend the 12mm to get to all the spots that the 6.5 can't.

I'll let the man himself explain...
 
 
 

15mm

It comes down to what type of vehicle are you normally using it on.

Large flat panels, mid to full size pickups as an example, the 15mm
Small vehicles with lots of odd shaped panels, the 12mm

So I love the 15mm. But for all around, get everywhere detailing, it's hard to beat the 12mm. It will take you longer, but it simply gets into places and areas the larger ones can't.
 
I can tell you Adam's personal favorite is the 12mm SK Pro, he also takes his time detailing over weeks to months on the same car. Hell correct on panel, then come back and do another in a week or two, and so on.
 
If you have and don't mind taking the time, get the 12mm.

Yes, safe for those surfaces and same process as on a car. Just understand if you polish that gel coats generally need more effort compared to your typical clear coat, it's usually a harder surface. For the seat, consider the Leather and Vinyl Coating instead. Don't expect the same longevity for either one on the jet ski, though.

Before the Leather and Vinyl Coating on the seat, no, just clean, dry and apply. Before the regular Graphene on other surfaces, yes.

More than likely, yes, it's gone. It's extremely short lived but adds incredible shine. Reapply and you'll be shine...er, fine!

Hi Jack,
I generally expect the extra pop to last several days when the vehicle is kept in the garage and 2 or 3 days max when out in the sun.  If we are doing something on Saturday I will either apply BG on Friday evening or Saturday morning to ensure it really pops.   I have found that when using Americana, the garage queen will need rewaxing every 3 to 4 weeks if I do BG every weekend.   I don't use Patriots enough to know if that would be case there also.

Great question and with the amount of great products it’s tough to choose. I have a black ceramic coated zl1(9H ceramic pro coated 1500$ Bronze package) vehicle which I have found reacts really well to ceramic waterless wash and the graphene detail spray. Regular waterless wash really shines also. I find I have to do small sections at a time. Apply and buff with different towel.  I used ceramic boost and the product ceramic pro gave me and neither went on well for me. 
 
good luck - black is tough to keep clean!  I’m touching my girl every night 😝 

Agreed with @The Guz, do a test spot to see what gives the best results for that car.

There is no way to know.  The best thing you could do is a test spot and determine what type of finish you would consider is good enough to move onto the coating.  

I use Iron remover often and have had no issues.  Its just a safety step for me as it removes the iron without moving it around with claybar.

As long as you are not in direct sun it can be left on longer than 5 minutes as it does not dry out like the old days of using wheel cleaner.
 
 

As Mc2Hill recommended thought I'd give the Stingray alittle love using Brilliant Glaze then Americana. When I did the Biscayne it had been a few weeks in-between the BG & AMERICANA. Today I went back to back. I did remove the BG before applying the Americana. Turned out very nice. 
Just did a waterless wash on her first as she wasn't really dirty, still have to do the wheels but almost ready for Corvette Expo in Pigeon Forge mid March.

Yes you can with either a wet or dry application. 

Looks real good!!

Nothing wrong with that at all!  Looks great!  

As Mc2Hill recommended thought I'd give the Stingray alittle love using Brilliant Glaze then Americana. When I did the Biscayne it had been a few weeks in-between the BG & AMERICANA. Today I went back to back. I did remove the BG before applying the Americana. Turned out very nice. 
Just did a waterless wash on her first as she wasn't really dirty, still have to do the wheels but almost ready for Corvette Expo in Pigeon Forge mid March.

As Mc2Hill recommended thought I'd give the Stingray alittle love using Brilliant Glaze then Americana. When I did the Biscayne it had been a few weeks in-between the BG & AMERICANA. Today I went back to back. I did remove the BG before applying the Americana. Turned out very nice. 
Just did a waterless wash on her first as she wasn't really dirty, still have to do the wheels but almost ready for Corvette Expo in Pigeon Forge mid March.