Nickfire20

The newest member of the family arrived at the dealer on Wednesday and was at my house on Thursday evening.  The best part is that dealer never touched the body or interior, not even to remove the transport markings or tape.  The only thing the deal did was remove the transport protective film.  I washed it on Friday morning and continued Friday evening, Saturday and finished it this morning.
 
The Ford Escape Hybrid Titanium edition, replaces the daughters Jag since the mileage and fuel cost was taking a serious chunk of her funds.  Running between four restaurants she was burning about $100 in fuel every 3 days.  Why she chose to punish me with another black vehicle, I don't know.
 
I believe this is the first vehicle that I did not have to clay as the starting point, I did multiple baggie tests and it was as smooth as could be.  There was not even a mushed bug on this vehicle, so it was nice at a great starting point.  As for correcting, it had one small area on one back door that needed a little extra help, otherwise finishing polish was all that it needed.  
 
The first picture is before I started washing it on Friday morning. The next two are when I pulled it out of the garage this morning after getting Graphene Spray Coating top to bottom.  
 
 
 
 

My Scat Pack. The newest thing in my lineup is Graphene Detail Spray. I used it last week as a drying aid and this is just a maintenance was with Car Shampoo. 
 The Wheels are ceramic Spray coated and honestly I barely ever have to use any Wheel and tire cleaner on them. Same goes with the tires, they however I use VRT and that stuff lasts a few weeks. This is a week later, after a wash , no tire dressing no Drying agent just washed and dry with Adams Drying towels( You can see them in the garage hung up ).

After two plus weeks the SS was in need of a bath. Filthy wheels were cleaned with Adam’s Wheel and Tire cleaner, Adam’s wheel and tire brushes and my favorite Adam’s Turbo Stick. They were then rinsed and treated to a shpritz of Rinse & Coat. The vehicle got foamed with Strip Wash, allowed to dwell, then rinsed and refoamed. Second rinse left the SS near perfectly clean. I washed using Graphene Shampoo and numerous MF wash mitts in a bucket. Sheeting rinse left the SS with hardly a drop on it but the plush drying towel made quick work of the remaining water. VRT  on the cowling, Ceramic Boost on the glass and a coating of Tire Armor on the Michelins finished her off nicely. Interior wiped down with Sweet Pea Interior Detailer. Then it was off to the showers. P U was I ripe!

After a shower and pics I went to look at it’s possible replacement and was ignored by the sales staff inside the showroom and out in the parking lot. I’ll visit a different dealership on Monday since they seemed to not want to take my money and shiny ride. Left there and went fishing but should have just gone home as fishing stunk (as did the pond.) Took a pic as I was walking back to my clean ride. ♥️

 
Tomorrow, bright and early before church,  I’ll wash the wife’s Beast then possibly mom’s Corolla after services.

I agree with the guz,  no one washes their vehicle repeatedly with crazy heavy duty degreasers.

 
There are a few great youtubers out there, I’m not here to promote anyone, but they do more real world testing, with regular soaps, or true longevity tests.  These guys i trust and they are showing more real world scenarios,  plus i like testing, and I play with different things myself, as do most of us.
 
 
For example...On the previous version of Adams spray coating, it came out Black Friday 2019, so not the graphene, It has been on my daily driven 2001 Silverado for 8 months.  I have washed the truck twice per month, 1 bucket, Adam’s blue car shampoo, 10” wash pad, dried with the ultra plush drying towel, no toppers, no boost, no details spray...nothing.  And the coating (spray) is still beading like day 1, well day like 14, since I didn’t put water on it for a couple weeks.   It lives outside 24/7,  drives 50/50 country roads and high speed highways outside of Washington DC.  
 
Now, it was prepped, Clayed, 2 step compound and polish, prep spray, 1 layer of coating, 24hrs later, ceramic boost.  But that is all.
 
As far as the graphene coating,  I’ve been using it since it came out and its still holding up on another vehIcle just fine,  but its only been 3-4 months I think, and its doing great!

My friend and neighbor needed his Jeep Rubicon prepared for winter.  I started in his driveway with a quick once over inspection looking for anything that may need my attention but found none.
 
Off to my heated garage we went where I started with a quick rinse of the roof and windows with Adam’s Rinseless Wash in a spray bottle. Those areas were then rinseless washed and the roof dried. The windows were cleaned a second time with Adam’s Clay Towel then dried. Next the paint was pre-rinsed then cleaned with Adam’s Rinseless Wash and several MF towels in a bucket. I spray rinsed then gently clay toweled the paint using the Rinseless solution as a clay lube. While doing that I discovered this mess on the hood. Quick pic and text sent with the approval to fix it as best as I could.
😳
 
Down to the basement I went to get the SK 21, a couple of MF pads plus Adam’s Correcting Polish and Finishing Polish. This combination quickly took care of the mess. While I had the polisher out I polished the entire hood and front quarters.
 
Now that I was done polishing I wiped it down with a competitor’s panel wipe then got to coating the paint, trim and glass with Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating. I can’t say enough how much I love that product; easy on, easy off and the gloss is off the charts. 
 
Wheels and tires got a quick clean with the remaining rinseless solution, dried then wheels got coated with AGCSC topped with Ceramic Boost. My neighbor never puts tire stuff on the tires so I let them be with the exception of the spare which cried out for some Tire Shine.



Before bringing it back I cleaned the  interior glass with Adam’s Glass Cleaner and wiped down the interior with Adam’s Interior Detailer w/ Microban.
 
I was pleased with the results but my neighbor was even happier. I’m giving him some Adam’s Car Shampoo and Ceramic Boost with which to keep it up. 
 

I had my doubts about Zaktec when I bought my new Jeep in Scottsdale last year, but it had already been applied to the exterior.  I knew enough about the car-buying process that it’s a terrible idea to accept all add-ons such as sealants, coatings, interior applications, etc., but I obviously could not negotiate the “removal” of an exterior sealant that had already been applied.
 
As part of the “deal,” you get to take it back in every 6 months for a refresh.  What a waste of time.  Although it’s free to refresh, I deliberately applied some inconspicuous dirt on my car after having it washed before dropping it off at the dealer.  Guess what?  The inconspicuous dirt was still on the Jeep when I picked it up.  
 
Next time I take it in (in 6 months,) I’m going to leave my dash cam on so I can watch what they [don’t] do….

Thanks for the feedback everyone!  Looks like I’ll include this on my next order and give it a try!

I, too, only hand wax.. I have been on this forum for around 15 to 20 years, although the forum does not show this.. I first tried a PC2474 buffer. However, for me hand waxing seemed best. My formula is ........ .1.Wash with Adams car shampoo. Remove hose nozzle and sheet water off, then use the great white drying towel in straight lines  2. apply Revive Polish (cleans and shines). 3. Buttery Wax. 4. Brilliant Glaze   I apply each in straight motions. First working left to right, then up and down, then left to right again. I usually cover Vette after doing Revive and wait a few days before apply the Buttery wax.  I then cover again, wait a day and apply the Brillant Glaze. When I buff by hand I also rub in alternating straight lines. I never apply or buff in circles. Sometimes I will wash again before apply the final brilliant glaze.  I apply the Brillant Glaze to the exterior of all glass and inside the tail pipes. I apply the Buttery Wax to the polished wheels (sometimes using the Brilliant Glaze).
 
I get excellent results with the above. After this when wash Vette I lightly spray Adams Detail Spray on surfaces beforer using the Adams drying towel.
 
Thank you

I have done multiple vehicles with hand polish and it is still my go to for tail lights and marker lights.  When doing motorcycles and golf carts, I only use hand polish.  

The Hand Polish used to be the Revive Polish.  It works great filling in any imperfections and cleaning the paint.  Good stuff. I used it constantly before I finally got up the nerve to try, and then switch to the Swirl Killer polishers.  

I just recently got into Adams products snd have been using the buttery wax which I have been extremely happy with and am likely going to try the paint sealant soon. 
 
in the past I have always used OTC cleaner waxes which have some cleaning properties but from my understanding of Adams waxes/ sealants is that these are strictly waxes/ sealants and do not have any cleaning properties. Ive read that it’s good to clean the paint occasionally. I do not own a DA Polishes and honestly not entirely comfortable using one my my cars nor do I feel that the paint is swirled enough to where it’s worth risking causing damage. 
 
I was curious if the hand polish would be good to use occasionally to clean my paint and remove any extremely minor imperfections. Also for anyone who has used it is it safe to where it will not damage my paint?  From looking at the Polishes Adams offers this seems best suited for what I’m looking for but open to thoughts/ suggestions for what have worked for others who don’t have access to a polisher tool. 

Friends, if there are issues with an order, defective or broken product, or anything that you need us to do in order to provide excellent customer service, please contact our team for an immediate solution!
 

Phone: (866) 965-0400 Ext. 1

 

Email: Orders@AdamsPolishes.com

We maintain the industry's only 110% Satisfaction Guarantee, and I promise to keep you as a satisfied customer.
 
Posting a rant on our forum will not get the problem handled immediately, and we would appreciate a direct contact via phone or email so we can solve the problem immediately!
 
We are humans here at Adam's, and we sell products made by humans, shipped by humans, and those products are then delivered by humans.
 
(Lot's of opportunities for errors when humans are involved. That said, I promise to correct any problems when ordering from Adam's Polishes.)
 
Thanks for contacting our helpful Customer Service Team Members with any issues with our products or service.
 
Sincerely,
 
Adam Pitale
Founder, Detailer

Hey everyone! I wrote this technical article for the website a few weeks ago. A big thank you to our creative and marketing teams for making it look much more presentable with nice photos and layout design. 






 





Preparation Instructions
Prep for Paint
Thoroughly wash the vehicle using a shampoo without any protection additives like Adam’s Car Shampoo or Mega Foam, or through a Waterless Wash or Rinseless Wash process.
a. Use a Foam Cannon or Foam Gun if possible, as well as a Two Bucket Wash Method with Grit Guards.
b. Use multiple clean towels if performing a Waterless or Rinseless Wash.
c. The safer you are in the wash process, the less chance of wash-induced marring or scratching.
(Optional) Perform iron decontamination with Iron Remover if necessary, by referencing our videos and other blog write-ups.
Thoroughly rinse and dry the vehicle with an Ultra Plush Drying Towel or Air Cannon.
Mask off any plastic and rubber areas that come in contact with paint, using detailing tape or painter’s tape.
Remove bonded contamination with a Clay Bar or Clay Mitt using Detail Spray as a lubricant.
Wipe away clay residue with a clean microfiber towel and Surface Prep.
Perform paint correction with a machine polisher by referencing our videos and other blog write-ups.
a. Remove previous protection with Compound and a Microfiber Cutting Pad.
b. Remove oxidation, swirl marks, light scratches and other imperfections using various stages of Compound and Polish with their respective pads.
c. Always do a test area first. Every vehicle will need a different level of correction.
d. The better you make the surface look in compounding and polishing, the better the graphene ceramic coating will look in the end. Coatings do not fill in or hide swirl marks and other imperfections.
Wipe away Compound and Polish residue with a clean microfiber towel.
Move the vehicle indoors if you have not already done so for claying/compounding/polishing. Remove any Compound and Polish dust from body panels, body seams, etc. using a clean microfiber towel and Surface Prep.

Prep for Glass
Clean exterior glass using Adam’s Glass Cleaner and Green Microfiber Glass Scrubbing Towel. Clay glass with a clay bar or clay mitt using Glass Cleaner as the clay lubricant. (Optional) Polish the glass with our white Polish or Hand Polish with a Blue Hex Grip Applicator. Wipe away residue with a clean microfiber towel. Use a second clean Glass Towel with Surface Prep to ensure the glass is 100% clean.
Prep for Wheels
 
NOTE: If you are coating a set of new wheels, we strongly recommend coating the wheels after the tires have been mounted and balanced. Wheel weights can have difficulty sticking and can fall off if you coat the wheels before mounting and balancing the tires.
If you wish to coat the outer and inner portions of the wheel, carefully remove the wheel from the vehicle after lifting the vehicle and securing it with jack stands. Heavy brake dust: Thoroughly clean the wheels using Adam’s Wheel Cleaner or Adam’s Wheel & Tire Cleaner, with the Short Wheel Brush, Trim & Lug Nut Brush, and Wheel Woolie for the inner barrel. Light brake dust or light dirt: Thoroughly clean the wheels using a shampoo without any protection additives like Adam’s Car Shampoo or Mega Foam or Adam’s Eco Wheel Cleaner with the Short Wheel Brush, Trim & Lug Nut Brush, and Wheel Woolie for the inner barrel. Thoroughly rinse the brushes or scrub them on a Grit Guard in a wash bucket multiple times throughout the cleaning process as they become dirty. You do not want to continue scrubbing dirt into other parts of the wheels and possibly scratching them. Thoroughly rinse and dry the wheels with a Mini Plush Drying Towel, Air Cannon, or Blaster Sidekick. (Optional) On clear coated, chrome, or gloss powder coated wheels, remove bonded contamination with a Clay Bar or Clay Mitt using Detail Spray as a lubricant.
a. Wipe away clay residue with a clean microfiber towel and Surface Prep.
b. Perform paint correction with the Swirl Killer Mini or Swirl Killer Micro Polisher by referencing our videos and other blog write-ups.
c. Remove previous protection with Compound and a Blue Foam Pad.
d. Remove oxidation, swirl marks, light scratches and other imperfections using various stages of Compound and Polish with their respective pads, or Metal Polish for chrome wheels.
e. Always do a test area first. Every wheel will need a different level of correction.
f. The better you make the surface look in compounding and polishing, the better the graphene ceramic coating will look in the end. Coatings do not fill in or hide swirl marks and other imperfections.
g. Wipe away Compound/Polish/Metal Polish residue with a clean microfiber towel. Use a clean microfiber towel with Surface Prep to ensure the wheel is 100% clean.  
Prep for Trim & Plastic
Remove any detailing tape or painter’s tape from the plastic and rubber trim. Clean exterior plastic trim and rubber using Adam’s Trim Cleaner or Tire & Rubber Cleaner with an Edgeless Utility Towel.
a. Fold the towel into fourths. Spray the cleaner directly into the towel, not onto the surface, to avoid over spray onto surrounding paint and glass areas that may have already been cleaned/polished/prepped.
b. Use one side of the towel to scrub away dirt, oxidation, and previous dressings. Use a dry side of the towel to wipe away excess residue.
c. (Optional) Use a Deep Clean Eraser in place of the Edgeless Utility Towel for very heavy cleaning. Test first to ensure the eraser does not scratch soft plastic.
d. Clean the plastic until you no longer see new dirt/discoloration in the towel. If there are white/chalky wax or sealant stains in plastic trim, you may need to repeat the above cleaning steps multiple times before all discoloration is removed.
a. You do not want to coat over any stains or discoloration in plastic.
b. The coating will not hide the stains, and then they would be locked in underneath the coating. Use a second clean Edgeless Utility Towel and generously clean the area with Surface Prep to ensure all Trim Cleaner or Tire & Rubber Cleaner has been removed.  
Application Instructions
Application for Paint, Glass, Wheels, and Chrome
 
NOTE: Rubber gloves are strongly recommended for applying a ceramic coating, and a pair are included with the Graphene Ceramic Coating Kit.
Move the vehicle (or wheels if coating wheels only) indoors into a garage.
a. This minimizes dust and moisture exposure, as well as provides a more consistent temperature.
b. Use multiple light sources at various angles to work more effectively and see the coating flashing more easily on lighter colored finishes. Generously wipe the surface with Surface Prep and a Borderless Grey Towel. The Surface Prep will evaporate to a degree while wiping - this is normal.   Thoroughly shake the Graphene Ceramic Coating 60ml bottle or the Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating 12oz bottle to mix the solution evenly. Graphene Ceramic Coating: Pour several drops of the coating onto one side of the Suede Applicator Block. Do not use the side that is stitched together. Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating: Facing away from the vehicle, mist 2 or 3 sprays into the Microfiber Applicator Block. Apply the coating to a panel in an even manner.
a. We recommend outlining the panel first, then pour/spray a little more into the applicator and fill in the remainder of the panel by applying in overlapping left/right or up/down passes.
b. Try not to lift the applicator from the surface when applying the coating. Lifting the applicator will expose it to more oxygen and leave heavier spots of coating in those sections, which can possibly become high-spots later on.
c. If you apply in a left/right path first, then do another pass in an up/down path. You do not need to apply more coating into the applicator at this point - you just want to spread it for more even and complete coverage. After a few moments, the coating will begin to have an oily, rainbow-like appearance as it begins to flash on the surface. Once the coating becomes slightly tacky on the surface, gently wipe the coating with a new, clean Suede Microfiber Towel to remove approximately 50% of the coating residue or more.a. The time in which it is ok to remove the coating residue can be anywhere from 30 seconds to 3 minutes or more, depending on temperature and humidity.
b. If the Suede Microfiber Towel seems to glide very easily without any slight tension, let the coating flash for another 30 seconds and test again.
c. One other way to verify that the coating is ok to wipe off is when the rainbow effect begins to fade into a more clear look on the surface. Wait another 20-30 seconds, and then take a new, clean Borderless Grey Towel to thoroughly wipe away all remaining coating residue. Repeat the above steps for the remaining, body panels, glass, or wheels. Inspect all areas of the vehicle to ensure all coating residue has been removed.
a. Use the UV LED Light to inspect coated areas for complete coverage. Some areas may appear to glow more heavily than others. You may see streaking, or overlap lines with the UV Glow Tracer - as long as the coating residue has been fully removed, these inconsistencies that are seen with the UV Glow Tracer will not show up under normal light.
b. Temporarily move the vehicle outside to inspect it under natural lighting, both sunlight and overcast conditions if possible. No matter how much lighting you have in your garage, you will most likely see a few high-spots that you did not notice indoors. Polarized sunglasses can also aid in spotting high-spots.
c. To correct any high-spots or other issues, please see the next section of this blog.
d. Move the vehicle back indoors. Allow the coating to cure indoors for the required minimum time frame.
a. Graphene Ceramic Coating: 24 hours
b. Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating: 4-6 hours or longer if possible  
Application for Textured Plastic and Rubber
 
NOTE: Rubber gloves are strongly recommended for applying a ceramic coating, and a pair are included with the Graphene Ceramic Coating Kit.
Move the vehicle indoors into a garage.
a. This minimizes dust and moisture exposure, as well as provides a more consistenttemperature.
b. Use multiple light sources at various angles to work more effectively. Generously wipe the plastic or rubber surface with Surface Prep and an Edgeless Utility Towel. The Surface Prep will evaporate to a degree while wiping - this is normal. If the plastic or rubber trim does not appear to have a uniform color appearance after the Surface Prep is fully dry, go back to the PREP Steps and clean the area again before continuing. Thoroughly shake the Graphene Ceramic Coating 60ml bottle or the Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating 12oz bottle to mix the solution evenly. Graphene Ceramic Coating: Pour several drops of the coating onto one side of the Suede Applicator Block. Do not use the side that is stitched together. Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating: Facing away from the vehicle, mist 2 or 3 sprays into the Microfiber Applicator Block. Apply the coating to the plastic or rubber trim in an even manner. Use the applicator to level the coating evenly across the rubber or plastic, so that it appears uniform, rather than having some areas heavier or shinier than other areas. Allow the coating to flash and soak into the surface for 30-60 seconds. It will not rainbow as it does on paint, glass, and chrome. Use a clean Edgeless Utility Towel to thoroughly wipe the plastic or rubber trim to ensure that all solvent from the coating has been removed. Allow the coating to cure indoors for the required minimum time frame.
a. Graphene Ceramic Coating: 24 hours
b. Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating: 4-6 hours or longer if possible  

 
 

 


 
We hope this in-depth blog and reference videos help to clear up any confusion or hesitation you may have on our Graphene Ceramic Coating™. You can take a look at our reduced graphene oxide products HERE. Please let us know below if you have any questions!

Thanks guys,
 
CS3 is absolutely my favorite Adams product. I like everything they make but CS3 is a special product. In ways I don't want anyone to touch it and possibly make is worse. It's such a good product. If Graphene does in fact make it better in the future, I'm all in.
 
 Anyway I have a Pitch Black car and I don't like to not put something on it after every wash which is usually once a week. I have not noticed any build up but I will use Detail Spray on bi weeks so I'm not using CS3 every wash. My car beads water so well when I wash it the soap beads off while I use the foam cannon and when I'm hand washing. It's kinda cool as it's beading so well. Rinsing is a breeze as the soap just falls right off.
 
 

I've had my share of problems with the baby sprayers also.  If you take your finger nail or something similar and scrape the front where the spray comes out prior to trying to pull the trigger you can usually unplug it.  I also have a needle that I can insert into the end if the the first method fails.  Be aware that the needle can make the hole a bit bigger so can become more of a spray than a mist.
 
Alternately you can go by one of the hobby stores and pick up a couple of paint sprayers.  If it is compatible with acrylic, then it will generally work well with other sealant type products.

Killer I'm glad this even wasn't cancelled like every other damn thing. very nice to see that you guys will be there. Hope you bring a ton of stuff, I need to get a few things.
My Son and I should be there.

The Team will be arriving today (Monday April 19th) around noon to begin set up. We should be open for business and detailing around noon on Wednesday. There are still detailing slots available if your interested.
 
Stop on by if in the area!

We'll be on the Midway Row IE Spaces 125-130. Same spot we're usually in.

Don't know yet, they don't release that info until the week before the event. But my guess is the same spot we've been at the past several years. Just look for the 25' inflatable Detail Spray bottle on top of our trailer on the midway, can't miss it.

Yup, my daughter loved it!  And its full of suds and lubrication.  Works extremely well.  I love it

Yup, my daughter loved it!  And its full of suds and lubrication.  Works extremely well.  I love it

Yup, my daughter loved it!  And its full of suds and lubrication.  Works extremely well.  I love it

Yup, my daughter loved it!  And its full of suds and lubrication.  Works extremely well.  I love it

Yup, my daughter loved it!  And its full of suds and lubrication.  Works extremely well.  I love it

You don't ever want to reuse your microfiber towels before cleaning them.  Use the Microfiber Revitalizer if you have it,  use LIQUID laundry soap if you don't (don't ever use powder), and either line dry or put them in the dryer with low or no heat and NO fabric softener in either the washer or dryer.  No dryer sheets either.  With proper care, they'll last years.  I have some that are 10 years old at least!