mc2hill

Clay that area like you did the rest of the car and it will come up.  It is just residue from the clay bar.

Adams does it again.  Well the show was great and thanks to Adams Detail products I took best in the Modifies class.  Thank you Adam.

Been using Adams Products on my '41 Ford Pick Up for a few years & love the results.
Retired now & plan to do up a few cars just to keep busy.

Picked up my CTS V Wagon today from Sewel Cadillac of Dallas
 

I have been going there since I was very young and it is one of my favorite places in the world!  Beautiful scenery and a fun (but somewhat slow) drive.

The detail spray is not really a wax.  It just has characteristics that will enhance wax on the car.  When you use it for clay lube there shouldn't be any wax to enhance.
 
Also - Adam doesn't wipe it off because the next step he is doing is polish and it's not necessary to remove the claying residue.  Many do but many don't with good results.  Do what makes you comfortable.

Nice start Joshua.  
 
I would suspect you are correct, you probably need to work on your technique, and usually that means slowing down and using less product.  
If you have not done so, try taping off a 2 ft. x2 ft. area and work that until you are statisfied.  You may need to work the area multiple times with the cutting pad and PCP to remove all the damage (make the cross hatach passes until the product flashes, wipe to check progress, and reapply & polish again).
 
That being said, no need to remove the current protection, just wait 5 months or so (it you can stand it!).

Did you happen to section off a test spot on your hood?
 
This is helpful as it will tell you how many passes of each product is needed to reach your desired results with your technique. Be sure not to use too much product, 3 pea size drops/small X on the pad should be enough to test.
 
In the earlier days of detailing I made a mistake of polishing the whole car with a two step polish then later discovering that I had some swirls remaining. A test spot (about 12 x 12) will do you a world of good. Any stubborn or deeper scratches can be revisited with the 4" pads and a drill.
 
Regarding technique, slow and overlapping passes (about 50%) with moderate pressure (weight of the machine plus weight of your arms) is a good guideline. Some panels may need more attention (hood, roof etc) it will be up to you once you get a feel what the panel responds to.

The pursuit was back on January 12, 2014 at about 3 am. I was informed by another Deputy that he observed a black sedan driving in north on 2nd St at a high rate of speed and without any light on. I was North on 4th St. This area doesn't have a 3rd St between it. It turns out the vehicle took a side street and popped out on 4th St in front of me about 1/4 mile. As I caught up the vehicle, I noticed it was all over the road and actually driving in oncoming lanes of traffic. I watch it try to merge back into right lane of traffic and it nearly crashed in the a center median. The vehicle then continued to weave and fail to maintain proper lane of travel. I turned on my red and blue to try to pull it over and it took off! I chased straight north until the road turned into another rural highway heading into another county and town. During that stretch of highway, the vehilce drove onto the opposite shoulder and sandblasted my 2013 Ford Explorer with sand, gravel and who know what else. During this part of the chase, we were at speeds of 105 MPH or so. The car was still blacked out! I chased into the next town where it got onto another highway. By then the other agencies were already blocking all exiting roads, so it was more or less a drag race to the end point. Problem was after about 30 miles of 100+ MPH (sometimes 125MPH), the dispatch center was losing radio communication due to range. I was told to cancel the chase, but the state police that jumped into the chase shortly before I cancelled, continued. They chased the vehicle another 80 miles. The driver and passenger of the black vehicle somehow managed to bail out in the middle of no where and lost the police. A few hours later, a state police trooper located the offenders walking up out of an arroyo (spanish - loosely translates to canyon or natural ravine). They were arrested and booked.
 
I thought the driver was DWI and just didn't want to get caught, but it turns out that the driver had actually stolen the vehicle (was trying to teach the passenger to steal cars too). Fun chase. I thought I was gonna die about 3 or 4 times, but it was a rush. Thank God for AWD, great traction, and great Emergency Vehicle Operator Instructors! Those new Ford Explorer Police Interceptors are wicked fast!! None of my co-workers could keep up.

I taped the seams the first time out too, but found that was not really needed.  Now I tape the plastic trim, wiper nozzles, and rubber trim.  To keep the product out of the seams and panel gaps I start polishing away from the gaps and work towards them.  That way the excess polish that ends in the gaps is worked into pad by the time you get to them.  Just a quick wipe of the panel gap at the end and I am done.

What about a plastic grip you insert the block in?

LOL, try discussing India Pale Ale by it's initials!  
 
The software has lots of often used acronyms built in.  Check out this thread for a list -  http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/4903-adams-acronymsabbreviations/.

Gerry your G8 looks proper.
 
Actually Garry Dean does recommend straight lines and flipping to a fresh side often, so I would say your technique is basically his but modified with 16 x 24's which in my opinion is a GREAT idea, more workable area which makes the job faster. I just may have to order about 6-8 of those size towels in my usual 660 gsm that I use for rinseless washing, would make doing 2 cars in the garage a BREEZE.
 
For what its worth, I bring my second bucket out but I keep it empty and just toss the used towels into it when they are spent as I go, then take them to the basement and wash/wring them out when done.
 
Personally I don't store the solution, but I guess you can do that, I'm not really big on putting the lid on the buckets because of possible mildew buildup from standing water, but I guess you could do that.  When using warm water in winter its really not something I wanted to try.

When Adam's introduced RW, I was skeptical of the idea, especially since it was suggested to use (and re-use) only two towels during the entire process. After a few washings, I started figuring out a few ways to make it a simpler and safer process. You don't need ten gallons of water. You don't need two buckets. Heck, you don't even need a grit guard if the buckets are clean to begin with. You also use less RW which translates into more uses out of your bottle or gallon.
 
Now, instead of 2 ounces of RW, two buckets, and 5 gallons of water in each bucket, I use about 1 ounce of RW, no more than 2 gallons of water, and one bucket. Not only is this cutting your water and product use by half or more, but you're getting a higher concentration of solution to boot.
 
I have six plush 16x24 towels I use for rinseless washing. If you fold them in eighths, that is 96 6x8 usable towel surfaces, which is more than plenty for a car my size. Once you completely use a towel, put it off to the side. This is somewhat similar to the "Garry Dean" method that some people are familiar with, except you are following the Adam's technique of wiping in straight lines and flipping to a fresh side each time.
 
Never reintroduce a used towel back into your RW solution. Why? Well, for starters, your unused towels will then be sitting in dirty water. Secondly, if your solution is never contaminated, you can save whatever's left and use it next time. I don't even dry my rinseless towels after cleaning them anymore. Once they're washed and rinsed thoroughly, I just throw them back in the rinseless solution and seal the lid. Now they're ready to go at a moment's notice, and I can top off the solution with more water or RW as necessary, instead of throwing out ten gallons of water and 12% of my bottle of Rinseless every single time.
 
Speaking of boots:
 

LOL, try discussing India Pale Ale by it's initials!  
 
The software has lots of often used acronyms built in.  Check out this thread for a list -  http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/4903-adams-acronymsabbreviations/.

Here is a link to the podcast - http://shoutengine.com/AMMONYC/matts-50-heater-with-jason-rose-kevin-brown-1784.  
If you want to dig deeper into detailing (polishing, interiors, etc.) Larry Kosilla from AMMO NYC has some very good podcasts available.  There is not too much mention of other vendors on these, just lots and lots (and lots) of information.

Thanks Jason!

Here is a link to the podcast - http://shoutengine.com/AMMONYC/matts-50-heater-with-jason-rose-kevin-brown-1784.  
If you want to dig deeper into detailing (polishing, interiors, etc.) Larry Kosilla from AMMO NYC has some very good podcasts available.  There is not too much mention of other vendors on these, just lots and lots (and lots) of information.

Adam's is all about routine maintenance layers in their regimen, how many threads do we see per week about people Glazing every other weekend or "throwing another coat of Buttery on"
 
The key to a coating regimen like OC2.0, is that it is long term, with no additional waxing needed for a period of 1-2 years or perhaps more.
 
I can't see Adam coming out with a similar product, as the company mantra is to only release a product when it is equal to or better than the competition, which I'm sure they can do, however it would negate the current regimen, Glazing and layering on top of a coating is not part of the regimen once you have a coating on your car, I think it would not be a profitable release.
 
As well, products like BG, Buttery, etc are products used often, needing refills to be bought.  If 1 customer buys one coating product from Adam's and doesn't buy other waxes, glazes etc. for over 2 years, then you are not only losing purchasing dollars gained per year per customer but you have to make up the additional somewhere, whether it is in the cost of a product (OC2.0 retails for $80, a price point I don't think a comparable Adam's product could compete and be preofitable) or elsewhere such as recouping shipping costs, less promotions, etc.
 
I agree with Adam's that it is not in their focus and TBH I wouldn't hold your breath looking for an Adam's coating coming your way.
 
 
Rinseless works because it is so versatile as a 3-in-1 or more type of product, so at first they may not have been keen to release a product only for one specific use, but since it can be used as Waterless, a water softener, a Quick Detailer, and a Clay Lube, and due to the huge popularily of ONR for those reasons, I think it made sense for Adam's to come out with a comparable Rinseless product and it is currently my favorite thing they make, and works much better than the competition might I add.

Spent this past weekend in OCMD at the 24th Cruisin OC. 3500 registered cars and trucks. Tons of vendors like Miller Welding, Meguiars, Flowmaster, Geico, Grundy Insurance, etc.  I can't understand why Adam's doesn't do this show. Enjoy the pics.
 
Cars from the movie American Graffiti:
 

 

 

 

 

 
Me and Horny Mike from Counting Cars:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Floridians don't own winter clothes.

My understanding at this point just maintain with waterless/detail spray, and if you get the urge to wax, go ahead and use brilliant glaze instead rather than building up the wax weekly.  Glad you are liking Adam's products as they are addicting!

When I saw the interior swabs come out, I thought I would never need something like that. I then got a pack in a mystery box and they sat for months. Recently I was cleaning my wheels and there are very tight areas that none of my brushes can really ever reach.
 
While trying to decide how to clean this area I lolked and saw the pack of interior swabs. Dunked one in water, sprayed with cleaner and wow did it work wonders. Picked up the dirt easily and even rinsed off clean to use on all the wheels.
 
I thought, "what else can these be useful for". Turns out, these are amazing at getting polish/wax out of cracks and body panels. Spray with IPA and they form perfectly in any crevice while cleaning with ease. I still never use them for vents and such but I feel they are quite underrated. Because of that, I have dubbed these not interior swabs but Cotton Swab RS!
 
What do you use your interior swabs for?

I have the hand-held dual bulb version.

Danger is my middle name. I once clay-barred an entire hood without stopping and folding over the clay.