ledger64

If your going to do rinseless might as well put down some h2oGG while you are at it. 

thanks Dan I would definitely purchase some.

mtm foam cannon.  thats where its at

This sounds like a job for the Rupes iBrid Nano polisher! (soon to released)
 

 
Our Man Dylan

 
And our very own DaytonaJae!

RB has you set with the "normal" use for pad/polish combo. Paints can however vary in hardness. It also depends upon the severity of damage being removed, and the correction ability of the machine being used. 
 
Softer paints may require only a white pad/correcting polish, and a no cut pad like the red for finishing. Harder paints will require a more aggressive cutting pad, like microfiber.
 
When correcting a vehicle for the first time, start out with the finishing polish on a white pad and do a section. Check your results for defect removal, if you see little to none, the paint is hard, so step up to correction polish and a microfiber pad. Harder paints may require a second go round with correction polish in some areas, but will finish down easily with finishing polish/white pad.
 
If your seeing 50% or better correction, the paint is soft, try the correction on the white, do another section with finishing on the orange foam, whichever gives best results, continue with that process. Finishing softer paints can be a little tougher to do, if needed, mix some distilled water (50/50) with the finishing polish and use a red pad. Some super soft paints will actually finish with water only, these are however rare.
 
The basics again given by RB will work on most paints, but some paints will respond better to different combo's, so don't be afraid to think "outside the box" if needed.
 
Getting 1 section to the correction/finished level your looking for first is the key, so your process is dialed in for the rest of the car.

the 32oz premium spray bottles are an excellent option to pick up when your buying gallons or larger.  it features at tolco spray head that works well esp for H20 GG
 
http://adamspolishes.com/shop/accessories/empty-bottles-sprayers/adam-s-new-32oz-premium-dilution-bottle.html

Rather than spraying the tire directly, I spray my brush and then scrub the tire to avoid the overspray question. If any of the APC/water mixture runs down I hit it with the hose quickly.

the 32oz premium spray bottles are an excellent option to pick up when your buying gallons or larger.  it features at tolco spray head that works well esp for H20 GG
 
http://adamspolishes.com/shop/accessories/empty-bottles-sprayers/adam-s-new-32oz-premium-dilution-bottle.html

its not paint!  satin FTW...nothing looks worse than greasy leather or tires!

You'll love the Leather Conditioner. Best product and best scent in its class.

Every time I see a thread title like this it makes me cringe a little. I know that probably 99% of the time they're a joke, but they hurt search results for people new to the products that might be looking for information. Just something for everyone to consider in the future  

You can try the rock trick

I would like to know as well. I want to make a small "vacation" kit to take on, well, vacations.

H20 G&G is a fantastic product!  It is more of a 'boost' product to add longevity to PS.  You can use it instead of wax, it does have lots of gloss, but I use wax on garage queens/show cars, and G&G on our daily drivers.
I use it in my Rinseless wash routine, adding protection without increasing the wash/dry time.

ok you got me there...

Works well on older cars too!

Justin looks like you have a good start with the products you ordered.  This post by mc2hill is spot on. Esp since you have a busy life with the wife and kids like many of us.  Once you get the vehicle cleaned with a regular wash and a good sealant (No point really to use a wax these days on a Daily Driver) it's fairly easy and quick to maintain with a rinseless wash and then using H20 GG as a drying aid.  Takes me about a half hour to do a rinseless/H20 combo and a bit longer if I clean my wheels.  You can swap H20 and detail spray when drying every other or every two rinseless washes depending on your frequency

Wet Sanding and Buffing.... Not two words I eve want to hear come out of a dealers mouth, especially considering how thin clear coat is these days.

its not paint!  satin FTW...nothing looks worse than greasy leather or tires!

Once you have your 2 bucket wash technique down, you may want to look at trying Rinseless wash.  It can cut your wash time in half - you wash & dry a panel at a time.  I can easily do a Rinseless wash on our Accord in 25 minutes.

I think they have been conditioned to believe that shiny=clean. Pun intended...

It's not a shiny product. It will be satin for the first day while its soaking in but then will be a matte natural finish once soaked in and dried completely.
 
Do people still look for shiny leather?

Here's the thing with Leather Conditioner that most people using it for the first time don't realize.  Once you've cleaned your seats well, you should apply the leather conditioner.  I like to apply it with a microfiber towel or with my hands.  Let it sit for a couple minutes, then wipe it down good with a clean microfiber towel.  A LOT of times you'll see streaking or an uneven appearance after a few hours or the next day. It's normal. That's because your seats and leathers/vinyls, etc. are not equal in their dryness. The areas that are dryer will absorb the product quicker and look duller or streakier.  The solution is as simple as reapplying.  You may even need to do it three or four times until it's uniform. But once you get it all evened out , you should only need to do it once the next time.  It's just a matter of getting it all equally treated and moisturized.  

Hot water. APC. Thumb workout.

I like to spray it down with an iron removing product like Adam's Wheel Cleaner. Then follow up with clay. Even then you might need more than one pass.