Steve_S

It has been recommended by Chris@Adams to put the Glaze under the Paint sealant especially if you are going to top the sealant with another product. Get most of the benefits and increase longevity without sacrificing performance of the sealant. 

Thanks for this feedback, first of all.  Thanks to you Dylan for showing up with a very good explanation as well!   True, the new machine needs to be used at a lower speed setting.  In our testing, we find that setting 4 on the Mark II is a bit higher than the Mark I at full speed, setting 6.
 
We are going to do some more testing, and have some replacement pads for all who have burned through ours.  Ideally, please send photos of your roasted pad, and we'll get you the replacements quick!  Orders@AdamsPolishes.com 
 
This new tool is powerful, and goes beyond paint correction.   We hope to have an ideal solution identified shortly, and think we are close now....stay tuned!

You bought the correct machine for sure. The pad technology is just going to have to get better as these new machines are becoming more powerful. Until the pad tech catches up with the machines, just adjust the power level and maybe take a few more cooling breaks.

The Rupes pads are failing left and right as well. It's apparent from reading user posts on other forums.

Hi Stewart, from my research, there are a lot of people blowing out pads from all manufacturers using the new Rupes Mark II, as the power has been increased and understated. What has been said elsewhere is to use between a 3 and 4 setting. I'm sure Dylan will chime in if he sees this. My 15 Mark II is on the way, can't wait!

It's a great machine and I love it! I just need to figure out this pad issue. No one wants to rip through $50 worth of pads each job!
 
I actually had the orange foam pad distort and try to fly off as well. I thought I used to much product and the pad was just to heavy. I used the same amount as usual (3 dabs per section) but I also noticed that it flashed much faster.
 
I'll try the next one at the lower speed and see what happens. I'll have to wait on the new pads to arrive first. I did not have any issue with the paint sealant on the lower speed of 2-3. I'm guessing that should go to a 1-2?
 
Thanks for the help everyone!

Dylan had posted on other forums that with the added power the mark II should be run at a speed between 3-4.

Gray pad for sealant and red for glaze, tried out the red with buttery but won't be doing it again, just didn't spread well. Sealant and glaze apply great though with the rupes. Love using a machine for them, as it justifies me having 3 polishers and nothing to correct lol

Applied a coat of buttery with the rupes 15 the other day and it didn't seem to work very well. Used a lot more product than expected to get it to spread evenly, and every time I put more buttery on the pad it only wanted to cover maybe half a door (about 2' by 2' area). Will stick to sealant and glaze by machine, as with these 2 products just a little bit on the applicator pad and it spreads a perfect thin layer that is easily removed

This thing is a correction beast! Was playing with the rupes applying a coat of buttery to the truck and found a 2" scratch (not fingernail catching but definitely noticeable) on my front fender, no idea how it got there bc my truck rarely leaves the garage. Out came the orange pad and pcp for my first scratch removal, about 3-4 passes with the rupes 15 on speed 3 and it was completely gone, didn't even finish down the pcp all the way by the time the scratch disappeared. Probably would have had to use the micro cutting pad and multiple passes with the cyclo or mini, me impressed! Can imagine the heavy correction it could do on speed 5 or 6 with a micro pad, I would probably be down to bare steel lol

It is a very sweet tool!  A little out of my price range for now, but I think one of my customers is picking one up when they are out.

This sounds like a job for the Rupes iBrid Nano polisher! (soon to released)
 

 
Our Man Dylan

 
And our very own DaytonaJae!

We love showing this at car shows and detail clinics - thought I'd run it by you all.
 
This is the test to determine if you need to clay bar your vehicle or not - and ultimately to show customers the difference if they are skeptical about clay bar (lots of people think it's a scam.)

Wash your ride - you want to do this on a clean surface (to prevent scratches.)
Feel your paint with the back of your hand. Always use the back of your hand to prevent leaving fingerprints and smudges.
Now put your hand inside a clean sandwich plastic bag, ziploc, whatever - just plastic - and feel that same spot you felt with your naked hand.
HUGE DIFFERENCE HUH?! The bag is creating a barrier so you can now feel every single imperfection.
Now spray a liberal amount of Detail Spray on a two foot by two foot area - the more Detail Spray the better.
Take a quarter of your clay bar and mash it flat in your palm or against your glass windshield.
Begin rubbing the clay bar back and forth, left and right on the surface you've lubricated with Detail Spray, adding more if necessary.
You'll initially feel something grainy and you might even hear what sounds like sand paper.
Work the clay bar till it glides smoothly, effortlessly, and you feel absolutely zero abrasives. Remember, clay bar will make your paint feel like glass and that's the point!
If you are claying and see that the side you are making contact with on the paint is changing color and getting dirty don't panic, it's working! Simply fold it over, kneed with your fingers a new side, and get back to it!
Dry the area with a microfiber towel (never your cotton shower towel you just pulled out of the hamper).
Grab the bag and perform the same test. Rub your now clayed surface - amazing huh?

 
Don't forget to clay your glass and wheels! Remember if you drop your piece of clay throw it away! You don't want to risk picking up a small rock or metal fragment and scratching your paint! If you clay your wheels DON'T use that piece on your paint, brake dust is scratchy!

Im an avid detailer from north dakota and am close to starting my own mobile detail business and will be using adams! I drive a 2013 Subaru WRX.

Once your paint is corrected and you are doing two bucket washes and using quality MF towels & DS wipe downs, white pad and FP is  all you may need to do once a year or so. But even if you have to go with CP and Orange pad once or twice a year your not going to hurt your clear coat.

So exciting getting a new power tool to add to my polisher fleet with the cyclo and mini. Probably didn't need it bc I only care for 2 black vehicles-my dodge ram and wife's jeep cherokee, but couldn't resist a new polisher. Tried it out for a quick minute using brilliant glaze and think I am going to love it, slow startup and the overall ergonomics of the tool are awesome. Just bugs the crap out of me that I have 3 new polishers without a vehicle to correct, guess I will be doing a lot of glazing and sealing by machine to get some use out of my new toys!

I researched the Rupes 15 Mark II to death and have one on the way as well. I'm glad I held off on ordering until Adam's began to carry it; love their customer service! I'm excited to get it and do a full detail of our vehicles. My Tesla has some deep abrasions on the rear passenger side. I have no idea how they got there, but I want them gone!

The LHR15II is my personal favorite tool in the line right now. You won't be disappointed!
 
A tip for you - REDUCE YOUR SPEEDS! The Mark II 15 saw close to a 40% increase in power over its predecessor and as a result your typical working speed needs to be setting 3 or 4, then jump to 5 or 6 when you need added torque to maintain pad rotation on curves.
 
It's a big departure from what you may have been coached to do with all your other machines, but with the new power levels you can cook some pads if you run wide open all the time.
 
We set a new standard for polishers with these tools and as a result we're retraining a decade + of bad habits. Think of it like a car:
 
When you drive you don't floor it everywhere. You drive the car at some percentage lower than 100% throttle to get where you're going. You floor it to go up a hill, pass someone on the highway, or outrun the cops
 
You 15II is the same way - only punch it full throttle when you need it. Enjoy!

Neither SVRT nor In & Out Spray are water proof. However, both are about equal in being water resistant.

Jelly.

Are you looking to adopt?  I'm house trained, and work a full time job.  I'm fairly decent at picking up after myself, despite what my wife may think.

Use a lubricant while drying. Adam's Detail Spray works wonderfully for this!
 
I used to dry using a fresh towel and nothing else. And no matter what I used, I found tiny swirls afterwards (my clearcoat is very soft). I corrected and polished and, taking advice from these forums, started using Detail Spray as a drying towel lubricant. Just spray on while the car is wet and dry normally. Not a single swirl since, using the same GW towels that previously swirled my paint.

Hi Blair, welcome to the forum!
 
It sounds like that is most likely salt transfer from your perspiration that has left marks on the leather. I see it often on headrests that people lean their head back onto a lot. You best option would be to clean it with our Leather & Interior Cleaner first, then put on Leather Conditioner. Spray the LIC onto an Edgeless Utility Microfiber Towel rather than directly onto the seat, and test it out on a small inconspicous area of the seat to ensure that it is not going to pull out any color using it at full strength, for example, the back underside of the seat. If it pulls color, dilute it 1:1 with water. Wipe the towel into the affected area, giving it a decent scrub, then flip the towel over to the dry side to wipe clean. Once dry, if the discoloration still remains, spray the seat a little and use our Cockpit Brush to gently scrub the leather, then use the dry side of the Edgeless Utility Towel to wipe the seat clean. It might take a few applications of the LIC to remove everything.

I have a gallon of it on the way. I loved the old stuff, and have no idea how Adam could make it better, but I'm eager to find out!

I have a gallon of it on the way. I loved the old stuff, and have no idea how Adam could make it better, but I'm eager to find out!