RayS

I had the opportunity to spend a lot of time with the Foam Cannon Premium today and it was fun.   The camper that I washed today is a 36 foot Flagstaff with three slide outs.  
 
I have found that Wash & Wax does a good job on the campers and other large surface area items, such as vinyl fences and metal buildings.    I use a soft brush on the end of the 12' pole and while the brush I have is probably 15 years old, it looks just like the Adam's Truck Brush, which should last you a lifetime if you get one.  When doing taller objects I also use a 24" extension on the Snub Nose so I don't have to get on a ladder to reach the higher areas.  
 
Just like a vehicle, I do the tires and wheels first and then start with the foam cannon doing one side at a time.  Because of the total surface area and using a brush on a pole, there is little doubt that you'll miss some spots, so I always plan on doing each side twice.   If you have the run marks that most campers get on them from the roof, awning run off or just going too long between washes, you may find some places that you still need to use Camper Black Streak Remover.  I have not found a Adam's product to substitute for this specialized product, so please let me know if there is one that you've found.
 
For the rinse after using the brush, I've found that the Fire Host Nozzle using a wide pattern works well.  It also prevents hitting the edges around the slide outs will to much pressure and getting any water inside.   On a camper this size, if you are doing it on a sunny day, you may need to do smaller sections, today was beautiful day, overcast and in the low 70's, so it was perfect for working outside.
 
While Wash & Wax does not lay day the volume foam that get with some of the other shampoo's, it does cover well and sticks pretty good.    Here are a couple from each side with the first coating of Wash & Wax from the Foam Cannon Premium.
 
 

If you want something that will take bit longer, I have a 36' camper that was dropped off today to get washed and ready for the winter camping season.   You are welcome to come and have some fun.  For the camper I'll be using Wash & Wax since it makes it so much easier to get it looking good.  Wash & Wax does not foam nearly as much as Mega, yet it still lays a good volume down.

Not off topic at all. In fact, you nailed it as to why I started this thread in the first place. I’ve enjoyed my ceramic and you absolutely cannot beat the care, but it has never “wow’d” me like some other products over the years in the looks department.  I have however had different/better luck with spray coatings vs the tiny little bottle.  Guess I’m looking for what’s next. 
 
And FWIW, nothing to do with my cars is a waste of time nor money, LOL.  It’s all just the next adventure or project. 

Hi Jack,
Unless your leather needs to be cleaned, then just stick with the Leather Conditioner.   For leather that hasn't gotten overly soiled or has marks of abuse or even excessive use, then it generally does not need to be cleaned.   The conditioner will add the moisture needed to keep the leather from cracking or fading excessively from the sun and give if the soft feel.

My 16 yo daughter is learning how to clean her 2014 Ford Escape! She wants to keep it clean. I told her that’s the biggest first step!

Hey everyone, Ramsey here. Greetings from Connecticut!
My wife and I are having a baby in about 3-7 days (maybe even sooner?!) and decided to invest in a solid family car that can grow with us (and our two dogs). I opted for the 2024 Toyota Grand Highlander Hybrid. Love the car, but was impossible to find and the only color I could get my hands on was black. And as I like to say, the only way to keep a black car scratch free and clean is to not buy a black car. 
 
In any event, I was paranoid about maintaining our investment and so have had PPF installed on the front of the car, including the front driver and passenger side doors, and the rear fenders. Between the vehicle purchase and the PPF, my budget has been maxed out, but I also wanted to ceramic coat my car while it was brand new and unscratched. I was super nervous about doing it myself, but even more nervous about not doing it.  After hours of researching, reading and watching videos (Thank you to the Adams team for all of the content!!) I felt comfortable giving it a try. I bought the Adams Advanced Graphene Ceramic coating and spent 2 days prepping the vehicle and applying. I am blown away with the results! The car looks way better than when I bought even just last week. Im letting it cure in my garage now, but cannot wait to get driving. Even my wife was impressed, and she is a hard lady to impress these days in her current state! 😂

 
 
 

After 20 years.......my calculator doesn't go that high.  And it would take me a week to even try and add it all up.  🤣

Chris brought up a good point about white vehicles and all unless somebody really wants something different,  I use HGG on white and it will look better than wax.

I have to concur with Chris since I also have both and I'll add one tidbit, I believe the Premium is easier to get completely clean after use.

I still use the standard when I'm doing a strip wash and that is the only time the standard is used and I never put strip wash in the premium.  I prefer to keep them completely separated.

I know is has been a while since you asked this question, but one way to remove them is with a thick hand sanitizer.  It is the alcohol that helps remove the sap, and the gel helps it stay in place.  Rub the hand sanitizer on the sap, then let it for a few minutes, and try removing with you finger nail.  
It they are very old you may have remove them carefully with a plastic razor blade.

I managed to complete another project on the garage over the long weekend, which was 5 days long for me.   After taking everything out of my garage and the wife being nice enough to let me put it all in her garage, I coated my floor.  The weather was excellent and it wasn't difficult to do it was a matter of following the steps and paying particular attention to the preparation.    It was really surprising how many marks were on the floor, yet I know the floor was clean. 
 
To make sure I would have the optimal bonding of the coating to the concrete, I did the three step process for cleaning.  Degrease the bad spots, sand the really bad stops and the use the Citric Acid with a triple rinse to ensure it was fully etched, which got the floor to this condition.

 
The tape around the wall is one single piece with the exception of the overhead door. If you have never had to tape along a floor, it is one of the easiest places to tape.  Just lay the tape roll on the floor, unroll it the length of your arms and press it in place.  If you do need get some touching the floor, just trim it with a razor blade or box cutter.   For the tape across the door threshold, you can go up to the door, under the door or all the way to cut.  I decided that I wanted the coating to be partially under the weather seal, so the tape is aligned to the middle of the weather seal.   
 
The tape on the left side floor, follows a stress cut since I had a concern of having enough material, and if I ran short, it would have made it easy to have a set line to star the next round after running to the hardware store.   Fortunately, the 2.5 garage kit was enough to cover the floor, but would not have been if I didn't have the cabinets in place.  The garage is 31x23 and the floor is smooth with reduced amount of coating required.
 
Here are the results of the Coating + Chips + Clear

 
This is this post cleanup with the center lights turned on.

 
If you are thinking about doing this to your garage, I can say that to me it was absolutely worth it.  It took me 5 days of about 5 hours per day to get it done.  You need to complete each step, let the floor thoroughly dry, find any spots that need more attention and then move forward.   If the instructions say you can do light walking after X hours, double that time just in case you have spot that hasn't dried enough otherwise you might leave a foot print - no need to ask me how I know, albeit light, I will know it is there.
 
When spreading chips, ceiling fans on low speed are great, medium speed not much and high speed creates a mess.  Throw the chips in the air and let them settle, you can always add more chips if you want a deeper pattern, I liked the look of the medium density so that is what I went for.  If you forget to throw the chips and have gone 8 feet instead of 4 feet, let's just say you have to throw them very hard to get them to the desired area - I only made that mistake once.     Water or Sweat on the floor while you are doing the coating or clear top coat is a bad thing, you'll get a bubble or round gap.  It was warm, so I can show you each spot where there was a drop, fortunately there were only a couple, after that I kept a shop rag in the back pocket to immediately take care of the moisture.  
 
Overall for being my first time coating a floor, it wasn't bad, a second person to help would have been nice, but wasn't required.  The outcome of the floor, even with my few foobars, has made me happy and the wife, so I'll get to do her garage next. 
 
Now that the floor is done, I get to build my custom shelves to replace the metal shelves that I had in there, which will go into the wife's new shed which we ordered today.  Other tasks are installing the baseboard molding, getting the rest of the art put up and building the portal workbench.   The last thing is to convince the wife that we are not going to find a good condition used lift, so I need to purchase a new one. 
 

That was my thought, too. Something else was still ln the sprayer. Glad it all worked out, though. BG to the rescue again...such an underrated product!

Hi Jon,
Brilliant Glaze should be able to remove the staining.   I had a similar experience with a new sprayer, not an IK Pro, but similar and my mistake was that I did not thoroughly wash the sprayer first.  While I cannot state this is what happened to you, but I found out there was some sort of lubricant within the sprayer and it came out upon first use.
 
Trying using BG on the affected areas, that will usually get them back to being pristine again.

I bought this Camaro in 1980 or so, and drove it every day for six or seven years.  Parked it meaning to restore it, but life happened.  It stayed garaged, and finally it was sell it or do it, but circumstances had changed that needed me to hire it done.  It was a frame-up rotisserie job, with new rear quarters, passenger inner tub, new front fenders and skirts, new pan from firewall to front of trunk, new sub-frame with control arms, springs, disks, MAJOR build on the 396, re-do on the Muncie M20, etc, etc.  The restoration shop has put around 100 miles on it, and it’s now in upholstery shop to do the interior.  So, best I can do right now is a picture from around 1983 when I was on a jobsite in Los Vegas.  Once finished, it will still look pretty much like this, except they did an exceptional job on polishing the Centerlines, and the rubber is new Cooper Cobras, black side out.

I managed to complete another project on the garage over the long weekend, which was 5 days long for me.   After taking everything out of my garage and the wife being nice enough to let me put it all in her garage, I coated my floor.  The weather was excellent and it wasn't difficult to do it was a matter of following the steps and paying particular attention to the preparation.    It was really surprising how many marks were on the floor, yet I know the floor was clean. 
 
To make sure I would have the optimal bonding of the coating to the concrete, I did the three step process for cleaning.  Degrease the bad spots, sand the really bad stops and the use the Citric Acid with a triple rinse to ensure it was fully etched, which got the floor to this condition.

 
The tape around the wall is one single piece with the exception of the overhead door. If you have never had to tape along a floor, it is one of the easiest places to tape.  Just lay the tape roll on the floor, unroll it the length of your arms and press it in place.  If you do need get some touching the floor, just trim it with a razor blade or box cutter.   For the tape across the door threshold, you can go up to the door, under the door or all the way to cut.  I decided that I wanted the coating to be partially under the weather seal, so the tape is aligned to the middle of the weather seal.   
 
The tape on the left side floor, follows a stress cut since I had a concern of having enough material, and if I ran short, it would have made it easy to have a set line to star the next round after running to the hardware store.   Fortunately, the 2.5 garage kit was enough to cover the floor, but would not have been if I didn't have the cabinets in place.  The garage is 31x23 and the floor is smooth with reduced amount of coating required.
 
Here are the results of the Coating + Chips + Clear

 
This is this post cleanup with the center lights turned on.

 
If you are thinking about doing this to your garage, I can say that to me it was absolutely worth it.  It took me 5 days of about 5 hours per day to get it done.  You need to complete each step, let the floor thoroughly dry, find any spots that need more attention and then move forward.   If the instructions say you can do light walking after X hours, double that time just in case you have spot that hasn't dried enough otherwise you might leave a foot print - no need to ask me how I know, albeit light, I will know it is there.
 
When spreading chips, ceiling fans on low speed are great, medium speed not much and high speed creates a mess.  Throw the chips in the air and let them settle, you can always add more chips if you want a deeper pattern, I liked the look of the medium density so that is what I went for.  If you forget to throw the chips and have gone 8 feet instead of 4 feet, let's just say you have to throw them very hard to get them to the desired area - I only made that mistake once.     Water or Sweat on the floor while you are doing the coating or clear top coat is a bad thing, you'll get a bubble or round gap.  It was warm, so I can show you each spot where there was a drop, fortunately there were only a couple, after that I kept a shop rag in the back pocket to immediately take care of the moisture.  
 
Overall for being my first time coating a floor, it wasn't bad, a second person to help would have been nice, but wasn't required.  The outcome of the floor, even with my few foobars, has made me happy and the wife, so I'll get to do her garage next. 
 
Now that the floor is done, I get to build my custom shelves to replace the metal shelves that I had in there, which will go into the wife's new shed which we ordered today.  Other tasks are installing the baseboard molding, getting the rest of the art put up and building the portal workbench.   The last thing is to convince the wife that we are not going to find a good condition used lift, so I need to purchase a new one. 
 

I managed to complete another project on the garage over the long weekend, which was 5 days long for me.   After taking everything out of my garage and the wife being nice enough to let me put it all in her garage, I coated my floor.  The weather was excellent and it wasn't difficult to do it was a matter of following the steps and paying particular attention to the preparation.    It was really surprising how many marks were on the floor, yet I know the floor was clean. 
 
To make sure I would have the optimal bonding of the coating to the concrete, I did the three step process for cleaning.  Degrease the bad spots, sand the really bad stops and the use the Citric Acid with a triple rinse to ensure it was fully etched, which got the floor to this condition.

 
The tape around the wall is one single piece with the exception of the overhead door. If you have never had to tape along a floor, it is one of the easiest places to tape.  Just lay the tape roll on the floor, unroll it the length of your arms and press it in place.  If you do need get some touching the floor, just trim it with a razor blade or box cutter.   For the tape across the door threshold, you can go up to the door, under the door or all the way to cut.  I decided that I wanted the coating to be partially under the weather seal, so the tape is aligned to the middle of the weather seal.   
 
The tape on the left side floor, follows a stress cut since I had a concern of having enough material, and if I ran short, it would have made it easy to have a set line to star the next round after running to the hardware store.   Fortunately, the 2.5 garage kit was enough to cover the floor, but would not have been if I didn't have the cabinets in place.  The garage is 31x23 and the floor is smooth with reduced amount of coating required.
 
Here are the results of the Coating + Chips + Clear

 
This is this post cleanup with the center lights turned on.

 
If you are thinking about doing this to your garage, I can say that to me it was absolutely worth it.  It took me 5 days of about 5 hours per day to get it done.  You need to complete each step, let the floor thoroughly dry, find any spots that need more attention and then move forward.   If the instructions say you can do light walking after X hours, double that time just in case you have spot that hasn't dried enough otherwise you might leave a foot print - no need to ask me how I know, albeit light, I will know it is there.
 
When spreading chips, ceiling fans on low speed are great, medium speed not much and high speed creates a mess.  Throw the chips in the air and let them settle, you can always add more chips if you want a deeper pattern, I liked the look of the medium density so that is what I went for.  If you forget to throw the chips and have gone 8 feet instead of 4 feet, let's just say you have to throw them very hard to get them to the desired area - I only made that mistake once.     Water or Sweat on the floor while you are doing the coating or clear top coat is a bad thing, you'll get a bubble or round gap.  It was warm, so I can show you each spot where there was a drop, fortunately there were only a couple, after that I kept a shop rag in the back pocket to immediately take care of the moisture.  
 
Overall for being my first time coating a floor, it wasn't bad, a second person to help would have been nice, but wasn't required.  The outcome of the floor, even with my few foobars, has made me happy and the wife, so I'll get to do her garage next. 
 
Now that the floor is done, I get to build my custom shelves to replace the metal shelves that I had in there, which will go into the wife's new shed which we ordered today.  Other tasks are installing the baseboard molding, getting the rest of the art put up and building the portal workbench.   The last thing is to convince the wife that we are not going to find a good condition used lift, so I need to purchase a new one. 
 

I finally have the workbench fully installed, including the metal pegboard, TV and various other accessories. 
 
The mild winter helped me keep progressing with staying warm enough in the garage to do the straining the coating on the cabinets and top only needing 2 or 3 days between coats.  The ceilings fans also helped by circulating the air and pushing the warmer air down from the ceiling.  They have timers built in so I could turn them on to run for multiple hours, so the temp pretty much always stayed above 50, even on the coldest nights.
 
 Now it is matter of getting the pegboard arranged the way I want it and then slowly move the tools out of Mary's garage.   I'm still working on the little things and some are getting closer to being ready to be worked on.  I'll put in a cable management system for the wires around the workbench, getting the fire extinguishers mounted and getting many more old license plates so I can finish the upper part of the side wall.   I have all the wood for the sound enclosure for the air compressor, I just need to get the sound tiles to build that.
 
I'm ready for detailing season to get started and ten the rest of the Adam's items will move in, excluding the gallons which I'll leave the climate controlled room in Mary's garage. 

I apologize... I wasn't signed in and it showed the first page last entry and I answered to that... my apologies. ✌️
Dog tags...
 

I've pretty much swapped to using it on most of my details, the versatility really is awesome. That said, ID still has a place for light touch-ups and just to change things up a bit. I like both, but the TIC really has grown on me. 

Hi Jack,
I use the my leftover Ceramic maintenance products on Graphene coated vehicle all the time and have yet to see any adverse affect on the coating.  The one thing that I have noticed is that it takes less product to do the same amount of area.  As an example, Ceramic Waterless on a Graphene vehicle would take two full pumps for a panel and with Graphene CS3 it takes two medium pumps for the same area.     Ceramic Boost is the one place that I do see a usage difference compared to Graphene Boost.  The Ceramic Boost over Graphene requires two towels to make sure there are no streaks and sometimes 3 towels, whereas Graphene boost takes one towel, sometimes two for a streak free finish. 
 
Wash & Coat works the same on Graphene as it does on Ceramic, so I'm slowly using my stock and then will just purchase Graphene shampoo going forward.  In my opinion, use up what you have and don't forget the alternate users.   Spray Coating and Ceramic Boost on the underside of the mowing deck, shovels and similar tools keeps grass, dirt and sand from sticking so much.  That includes the small garden and flower garden tools when really helps in the moist sand that we both deal with.
 
As for Detail Spray, I go through 2 gallons of regular Detail Spray compared to 1 gallon of Graphene Detail Spray.  I do not put regular Detail Spray on any ceramic or graphene vehicles.   Regular Detail Spray is for polishing and many other uses around the house and Graphene Detail Spray is only for dusting off Graphene Coated vehicles.

Jam cafe

*located in Vancouver, BC

While this project has been going on for over a month, we are only waiting on two more parts, new tool box and the aluminum bi-fold gate.  The trailer is nearly 30 years old and needed some pretty significant reconditioning.   The first two pictures below show the condition that it started on the inside and outside.
 
The next two pictures show it how it came out once the body work was done, new boards put along with almost 100 carriage bolts to hold them.    We also put new LED lights along with rewiring it.   Once the other parts come in, then I'll add a Graphene coating so it will keep looking good for a while.

The Tire and Rubber Cleaner is designed for the tires only and you would use a separate product such as Wheel Cleaner or Eco Wheel Cleaner on delicate wheels.  Whereas Tire and Wheel cleaner will do a good job on both with just one product.  I've found that using Tire and Wheel clean on Ceramic or Graphene Coated wheels works exceptionally well.  The tires look good and the coating is not affected.  Of course with coated wheels the shampoo alone will take off the majority of the contaminants. 
 
I detail a lot of different vehicles so I keep Eco Wheel Cleaner, Wheel Cleaner, Tire and Rubber Cleaner and Wheel & Tire Cleaner in stock.  I use more Wheel & Tire Cleaner than the others combined since I have found it to be an excellent all around cleaner.   Of note, some tires have compounds that are challenging to get even with any product.  I know there have been some challenges with Continental and Dunlop motorcycle tires and it appears to be specific tire compounds, not the Adams products since other models from same manufacturers seem to have no problem. 
 
If I were limited to only having one of the four products, it would be Wheel & Tire Cleaner.  Don't forget to add the Graphene Tire Dressing after getting the tires clean if you like a nice deep shine on your tires otherwise VRT is a good choice.

The simple answer is Yes.  

My brother-in-law needed some help on the farm, which has free range chickens, so I went to Wisconsin for week.  The main goal was to put new windows in the barn, he was fortunate enough to have his new tractor show up on Monday.  I couldn't resist the opportunity to make it shine and protect it with Adam's.
 
There are so many parts to try and get into that I was noticing places that I missed for a couple of days. It will be interesting see how it looks after a year of usage and the WI winter.
 
I also found out that some of the chickens approve of the wife's Terrain, either looking at themselves in the shine or using it as shade.
 
 

The simple answer is Yes.  

My brother-in-law needed some help on the farm, which has free range chickens, so I went to Wisconsin for week.  The main goal was to put new windows in the barn, he was fortunate enough to have his new tractor show up on Monday.  I couldn't resist the opportunity to make it shine and protect it with Adam's.
 
There are so many parts to try and get into that I was noticing places that I missed for a couple of days. It will be interesting see how it looks after a year of usage and the WI winter.
 
I also found out that some of the chickens approve of the wife's Terrain, either looking at themselves in the shine or using it as shade.