Odds and Ends

Most dealers do local clinics. I sponsor lots of clubs and host anywhere from 6 to 15 or so demos throughout the year for the various clubs. I'm also happy to do a clinic and demos for anybody who wants to organize a group of say 10 or more people although that has only happened one time. Having a retail showroom, I can sell you what I just showed you, you take it home and use it that same day.
 
Back to the point if this thread, I recall a few years back, there was some talk about "authorized" training and classes but I don't think it ever grew legs.

Most dealers do local clinics. I sponsor lots of clubs and host anywhere from 6 to 15 or so demos throughout the year for the various clubs. I'm also happy to do a clinic and demos for anybody who wants to organize a group of say 10 or more people although that has only happened one time. Having a retail showroom, I can sell you what I just showed you, you take it home and use it that same day.
 
Back to the point if this thread, I recall a few years back, there was some talk about "authorized" training and classes but I don't think it ever grew legs.

Most dealers do local clinics. I sponsor lots of clubs and host anywhere from 6 to 15 or so demos throughout the year for the various clubs. I'm also happy to do a clinic and demos for anybody who wants to organize a group of say 10 or more people although that has only happened one time. Having a retail showroom, I can sell you what I just showed you, you take it home and use it that same day.
 
Back to the point if this thread, I recall a few years back, there was some talk about "authorized" training and classes but I don't think it ever grew legs.

2016 was a strong year for our humble business, and we have you to thank!   Thank you for using and recommending our products  Thank you for your incredible loyalty.  Thanks for caring enough to tell us when we need to improve a product, policy, or service.
 
Thank you, and cheers to a fantastic 2017!!

I get the 91% IPA and dilute approx 1:1 with water, sometimes leaving a little more IPA to get as close to a 50/50 as possible. Obviously the mix isn't hyper critical like being in high school chemistry where stuff could explode. Speaking of which, there is a chemical reaction that does give off heat when mixing IPA with water.....
 
Yes, as others have suggested, the Blue Waterless Wash towels are THE go to towel for IPA wipedowns.
 
- Darryl

Nothing is 100% carnauba. As previously mentioned, it would be hard as a rock and not spreadable. I've used the aforementioned product and compared to the original formula of Americana, I will tell you that P21S is a little slicker than Americana but that would indicate to me that there are more polymers than carnauba. Shine is sbout equal given proper and adequate prep. I have not compared P21S to the current Americana.
 
I will echo what others have already stated. The secret to a fantastic shine is having the "clearest of clear coats". If your clear is not "clear", you will not see the true color and/or reflection of the base color. Many of my customers remark how sparkly their car is when they pick it up. I explain to them how polishing the car and removing all the scratches makes the clear coat actually clearer and you see more of the true color of the paint.
 
For those of you who have polished single stage paint, you know what a mirror effect is like. I always joke that "nothin' shines like good 'ol single stage"

Nothing is 100% carnauba. As previously mentioned, it would be hard as a rock and not spreadable. I've used the aforementioned product and compared to the original formula of Americana, I will tell you that P21S is a little slicker than Americana but that would indicate to me that there are more polymers than carnauba. Shine is sbout equal given proper and adequate prep. I have not compared P21S to the current Americana.
 
I will echo what others have already stated. The secret to a fantastic shine is having the "clearest of clear coats". If your clear is not "clear", you will not see the true color and/or reflection of the base color. Many of my customers remark how sparkly their car is when they pick it up. I explain to them how polishing the car and removing all the scratches makes the clear coat actually clearer and you see more of the true color of the paint.
 
For those of you who have polished single stage paint, you know what a mirror effect is like. I always joke that "nothin' shines like good 'ol single stage"

Nothing is 100% carnauba. As previously mentioned, it would be hard as a rock and not spreadable. I've used the aforementioned product and compared to the original formula of Americana, I will tell you that P21S is a little slicker than Americana but that would indicate to me that there are more polymers than carnauba. Shine is sbout equal given proper and adequate prep. I have not compared P21S to the current Americana.
 
I will echo what others have already stated. The secret to a fantastic shine is having the "clearest of clear coats". If your clear is not "clear", you will not see the true color and/or reflection of the base color. Many of my customers remark how sparkly their car is when they pick it up. I explain to them how polishing the car and removing all the scratches makes the clear coat actually clearer and you see more of the true color of the paint.
 
For those of you who have polished single stage paint, you know what a mirror effect is like. I always joke that "nothin' shines like good 'ol single stage"

Numerous negative posts in this thread have been hidden until they can be reviewed with Adam.
 
The negativity and criticizing are detracting from the purpose of this thread, which is to get questions answered about this new polisher.
 
The fact that it is made in China was stated in the first post, and on the product page.  This was made clear right from the start, so that if this does not fit your viewpoint, then you can choose not to purchase it.

Yes, strip wash is fine.  

I guess I'm either very lucky or have been going about marketing and promotion all wrong......LOL   
 
Seriously,  you really do need to vet your customers.  If they want their 20 year old, 180K mile Toyota Corolla to look like it rolled off the showroom floor, you're going to lose your shirt on those types of jobs and it would likely need more than just polishing.  The cost of the service will likely exceed the value of the car.  If you don't think you can make the customer happy, don't take the job.  You'll be better off in the long run.
 
You can give different prices for different levels of service.  That alone will weed out the serious customers from the tire kickers and enable you to meet expectations and still ensure you make some money in the process.  Of course, this means that you have to be able to deliver on your promise.
 
Chris is right that you will probably be more likely to get daily drivers at the beginning, but that's a good thing.  It will enable you to gain the needed experience and hone your skills for when the weekend toys start rolling in.  I was fortunate enough to pull most of my startup jobs from fellow car club members and word spread from there.    I've been a long time member of Porsche Club of America and Audi Club North America.  

Actually, you can.  I do it all the time.  The question is at what point can you afford to turn away work.  
 
Pricing in this business should be based on size of car and it's current condition.  If someone is offering a flat rate, I'm happy to let people go use one of the flat rate services and they will get what they pay for.  I tell new customers that the first time I work on their car, it is most likely going to be more expensive and if they choose to maintain it better and/or return for regularly scheduled intervals, it will be less expensive on return visits because we won't need to do as much work.   You also need to figure out what the customer's expectations are as well.
 
Mark is correct that as your results are learned among the community, you will weed out some, but probably not all of the types of cars you're referring to.  Good luck!

Actually, you can.  I do it all the time.  The question is at what point can you afford to turn away work.  
 
Pricing in this business should be based on size of car and it's current condition.  If someone is offering a flat rate, I'm happy to let people go use one of the flat rate services and they will get what they pay for.  I tell new customers that the first time I work on their car, it is most likely going to be more expensive and if they choose to maintain it better and/or return for regularly scheduled intervals, it will be less expensive on return visits because we won't need to do as much work.   You also need to figure out what the customer's expectations are as well.
 
Mark is correct that as your results are learned among the community, you will weed out some, but probably not all of the types of cars you're referring to.  Good luck!

I've been using it for years and I use my towels hard.  Laundry 3 to 4 times per week.  I've got borderless blues and double softs that I swear I could almost put back on my retail shelves and sell as new.  I love this stuff!
 
Just add a few ounces to the washer with your regular (dye free, bleach free, perfume free) soap.  It will keep your towels looking and feeling new for a good long time.

I should clarify, you shouldn't be picky about your customers when you are just starting out. I think it is unrealistic to think you will be detailing Corvettes, Porsches, etc just starting out.

Actually, you can.  I do it all the time.  The question is at what point can you afford to turn away work.  
 
Pricing in this business should be based on size of car and it's current condition.  If someone is offering a flat rate, I'm happy to let people go use one of the flat rate services and they will get what they pay for.  I tell new customers that the first time I work on their car, it is most likely going to be more expensive and if they choose to maintain it better and/or return for regularly scheduled intervals, it will be less expensive on return visits because we won't need to do as much work.   You also need to figure out what the customer's expectations are as well.
 
Mark is correct that as your results are learned among the community, you will weed out some, but probably not all of the types of cars you're referring to.  Good luck!

practice, practice, practice!  Then, when you're comfortable with your technique, practice some more.
 
Seriously, every car will respond differently.  No two jobs will be the same.  As others have suggested, there are "classes" out there that will discuss the basics, but a lot of it is learning about the physical and chemical properties of the various surfaces that you will be working on.   Paint, plastics, carpets, leather, etc.  Reading up on and learning about the actual materials will help a lot. 

No need to go to the "stealership" to buy cleaning products.  Get yourself some RaggTopp cleaner and spray protectant.  You can get both items in a kit.  I use it (and sell it) for all of my customer cars as well for both my 996 Cabrio and 968 Cabrio.  Give me a ring or PM if you have questions on the top.
 
Black is tough......once you get it polished and sealed, touch it as little as possible.  For the "best" shine, I like two coats of LPS as a base, then you can simply maintain with HGG and every so often, hit it with a coat of wax or glaze as a top coat.  But again, be careful how much you're rubbing on it.  Having a couple of layers on there will help reduce swirls but not prevent them completely.  It's black......

No need to go to the "stealership" to buy cleaning products.  Get yourself some RaggTopp cleaner and spray protectant.  You can get both items in a kit.  I use it (and sell it) for all of my customer cars as well for both my 996 Cabrio and 968 Cabrio.  Give me a ring or PM if you have questions on the top.
 
Black is tough......once you get it polished and sealed, touch it as little as possible.  For the "best" shine, I like two coats of LPS as a base, then you can simply maintain with HGG and every so often, hit it with a coat of wax or glaze as a top coat.  But again, be careful how much you're rubbing on it.  Having a couple of layers on there will help reduce swirls but not prevent them completely.  It's black......

Try clay first.....it's easier since it doesn't involve a trip to the store to buy the steel wool.  
 
If that doesn't work, use #0000 steel wool with glass cleaner as lube.  You shouldn't have to use a tremendous amount of pressure.  Wipe it clean the a glass towel, then clean the glass as normal with more glass cleaner and a fresh towel.    Use the Glass Sealant to help prevent future water spotting.

I've been using it for years and I use my towels hard.  Laundry 3 to 4 times per week.  I've got borderless blues and double softs that I swear I could almost put back on my retail shelves and sell as new.  I love this stuff!
 
Just add a few ounces to the washer with your regular (dye free, bleach free, perfume free) soap.  It will keep your towels looking and feeling new for a good long time.

Do these one section at a time.  As you agitate with the cockpit brush, you can add a spritz of cleaner as you brush, if that makes sense.  You don't want to spray the whole seat as that may cause streaks and splotches.  The cleaner is pretty strong so be careful not to remove the pigment/dye.  Wipe with a clean towel as you go to check your progress.  Even as bad as it looks in the photos, it appears to mainly surface dirt.  Take your time and good luck.

Adam has stated repeatedly that he will not release a product that is not substantially better than what is already available on the market.
 
I suspect that holds true here - as well as for the "paint coating" clamor.
 
Maybe I just don't understand all of the "when are we gonna get THIS?" posts.....

Yes, applicators, towels, and brushes......oh my!

I stock pretty much everything, but don't do the 32oz - only 16oz and gallons.  Of course, there's always the possibility I may be out of something at any given time, but I order almost every Monday or Tuesday so I can restocked by the weekend.