AvsBest

VRT: If you weren't already, try rubbing the product into the sponge (if you are using a sponge) a little bit before applying. Not so mich rubbing into but more of a spreading evenly on it with your finger
 
Glass: If you are at city speeds, you won't see a whole lot of water flying off the windshield. I found that at speeds of 45 and up is when I can turn off my wipers
 
Rain: Which wax are using? I found that while H2O has protection in it, it doesn't show the effects as good as the paint sealant where water beads like crazy and when at speed, just flies off the car.
 
I'm bored so I'll dig up some video of the sealants from my dahscam so that you can compare to yours on the glass and paint at some point today

Can't figure out how to embed them so here they are. One is slow speed (30mph) paint and glass sealant reaction and the other one is high speed glass sealant (65mph).
 
Don't forget to click HD
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_Fye1qc1Yo
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vqFncvKeCY
 
Notice on the low speed how the water "sticks" to the paint until I reach about 30mph then it flies off. Sealant was about 6 months old on the low speed and about 10 months on the high speed so it shows it's due.
 
I don't know how old the glass sealant was on either.

Finally hung up the new Logo Banner.  I trimmed it into a circle so it would fit the available wall space.
 

Paint sealant with a monthly top op of H2O should do the trick. Watch most of Adam's videos specially the ones on washing method and daily drivers

From less safe to safest:
 
- Waterless wash
- Rinseless wash
- 2 Buckets
 
Since Rinseless has been introduced, it is as low as I go now even for some dust. I only use Waterless in a pinch or if I'm going to correct the car anyways. Nothing wrong with using waterless if it's only dust though.
 
If you have or get Rinseless you can dilute it and make a waterless with the Rinseless too which is nice. Best of both worlds
 
I would also chuck the duster as far as you can

You may get more 'bang for the buck' by taking the 30 minutes you would spend hand polishing and machine polish a 'high visability' panel like the hood.  Your call. 

Wouldn't matter to me if it was magic fairy dust. I still think it should be a clean surface (whether you use a waterless wash method, full 2 bucket etc) prior to polishing. Simply wiping it with a dry microfiber as you suggest isn't the way I would approach it, but we all have our ways of approaching detailing :-)

Given that you will be correcting it anyways, just wipe it down with a microfiber towel. Washing the car would bean overkill at this point

Another one of those

Another one of those

Thank You all for the prayers and well wishes!!!! My family and I really appreciate everyone wishing for my speedy recovery.  I'm doing good and hopefully will be getting out some time today.     

Get well soon!

I hope you ARE!

I find swirl finders are a gimmick. Not saying they don't work but you can find identical lights for cheaper. I find that as long as you have an LED light you are fine

The 'less obsessed' Adam's Approach.
 
First off, I am not a writer, and I'm sure there are PLENTY of errors. I'm also not a detailer to the level of Mr. Wolf, Pitale, Tyger, or MANY MANY other here's. If you see something that you feel might need to tweaked, shoot me a PM.
 
Let's face it. Some folks just aren't wired like the rest of us. Some come here just looking for quick, easy, and visible results to car care. Not everyone is going to the lengths of strip washing, claying, paint correcting, and what not. Some come here looking for quality products because they want a complete system of quality products Wal-Mart or the local auto parts store can't provide. But they still have the mentality of quick and easy. 
 
My goal is here to simplify the system, and help you build you're first shopping cart.
 
For starters, you'll want:
 
1- Adam's Daily Driver Detailing Kit. (Link)
Includes:
1 - Visco Clay Bar
1 - 16oz Detail Spray
1 - 16oz All Purpose Cleaner
1 - 16oz Car Shampoo
1 - 16oz H2O Guard & Gloss 
2 - Borderless Gray Towel (for H2O Guard & Gloss Application)
1 - Fender Brush
1 - Wheel Brush
2 - 10" Wash Pad
1 - Bucket w/ Grit Guard & Gamma Seal Lid
 
I would add the following:
1 - Adam's New Spray Nozzle or Fire Nozzle (Not required if you spring for the Foam gun)
 
1 - Tire & Trim Combo (Link)
Includes:
      1 - 16oz All Purpose Cleaner
      1 - 16oz VRT 
      2 - Foam Block Applicators
1 - 16oz Wheel Cleaner (Link)
1 - 16oz Tire Shine (Link)
4 - Single Soft Microfiber Towels (Link)
2 - Great White Drying Towels (Link)
1 - Deep Clean Tire Scrub Brush (Link)
 
OPTIONAL (For fun...)
Adam's Foam Gun
 
Wash Process:
 
FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS & WARNINGS AS PRINTED ON THE BOTTLE. The instructions in this write up are not all inclusive. Watch Adam's Daily Driver Detailing Video. It's full of great instructions is a great overview of the process.
 
Before you start, have a plan and be prepared. Have everything staged and ready to go! Don't start the step until you've got everything ready to go.

This is simple?  Took me so long to read all that, I could have had my car washed AND waxed. 
 
 
Just kidding with you. Nice write up!

For the non-techy ones with an iphone out there, if you save the PDF in iBooks, you have access to it without load times and off network

The bottle is on the paint, the bottle is on the paint!!!
 
Nah kidding, nice turn out with simply the car shampoo, imagine what it would look like with a hint of H2O.
 
Good thing with this color is swirls are very hard to see in a day to day setting

A family member (sister) asks if you can wash my jeep and to there surprise it takes 7 hours.

Since you read the charts,
 
I started with the PC but outskilled it fairly quick and I turned it into a 4" inch small area polisher.
 
I now have the Flex 3401 which I really like, fast and powerful but you have to be a bit more careful with it and definitely have to hang on to it.
 
I tried the cyclo and was amazed on how smooth it is, next to no vibration, I could do a panel all day without getting tired.
 
Comes down to what you are comfortable with, I chose the PC at first because it is impossible to do damage to your car with it even if you try. I didn't have much knowledge of the polishers so I felt safet that way.

You can probably do 5 to 10 cars with an 8oz bottle... Very little needs to be used just like all Adam's polishes. That's one thing I found with Adam's, when you think you have enough product, drop it by half and it's probably all you really need.
 
I tend to use about 3 pee size drops on my pad for a full door or so. You can use that much for half the door if you want to be sure you have enough but not much is needed at all.
 
That's all I used on the whole hood and that was the result.

I bought that one as it was the cheapest and that's all I need. It is quite a bit more powerful than most drill though. Most very good $300-$500 cordless drills are in the 1800 RPM range, should I be worried about it being too powerful?

You shouldn't plan how many passes you will do in advance because the truth is: you don't know until you try it. It may take 1 or 10 passes to get your 2x2 test section perfect (I doubt 10 looking at your car..)
 
Also with the PC slow is fast. If you think you are going slow enough, slow it down an extra notch at speed of 5 or 6 if you don't mind vibrating until the next day and you'll get there!

That's the type of stuff I was looking for. My drill has a stunning 750RPM no wonder I couldn't get it done

Not really a detailing meme, but I'm sure you all can relate....